BigTallDad

I mentioned that because the OP is a newcomer to the hobby. Sheena? Take a look at the instructions for the kits here, Then decide if you're ready to take them on. http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/mkiba-build-under-c/

The kits shown are skill-level 3, meaning they are very complex and have a lot of parts.

Good stuff! How do you feel about displaying a model with the hood off versus open? Does it seem to you that darker colors tend to win more prizes than lighter colors? Maybe I missed it, but I didn't see anything about accuracy. I once judged a contest and there was a late-model Mustang (with fuel injection) entered in the Factory Stock category. The builder had added a fuel line and a fuel shut-off valve. Typically, late model cars with fuel injection also have a return line, and I have never seen a factory-installed fuel shut off valve on any 1:1.

I use the same technique (it also works very well for raised scripts) except I use small strips of balsa instead of toothpicks. The balsa is more porous and will soak up more thinner.

If you decide to build one (or more) make sure you have an ample supply of Band-Aids.

Here's one way... http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/102571-vacu-formed-headlights/

To alleviate the fear of sanding chrome, practice on the sprue where the part was formerly attached. I'm guessing you're talking about the differential being cast in two halves...you'll need to sand the mating surfaces to get good adhesion. After that (and if you don't like what you see) use some Bare Metal Foil (BMF) to cover the glitches. http://www.italianhorses.net/Tutorials/BareMetalFoil/bmf.htm Finally, post some pictures of the problems you're incurring; I know you're a newbie, but ya gotta learn sooner or later.

Variable length rubber bands come in handy for clamping... http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/102170-variable-length-rubber-band/#comment-1429461

Very stunning! Maybe it's my tired old eyes, but I didn't see any valve stems.

You omitted a trivial item...budget!

Real

Great job! Did you practice on a golf tee (about the same size)?

Awesome job on a really old kit! Are you going to paint the rubber "bullets" on the front bumper?

Definitely different and nicely done.

What material is used to make the chain? Steel? Brass? Gun metal bluing will turn steel into a dark color, if that's what you want...

Billfold (wallet) leather is very thin. I'll buy a wallet at a garage sale for this purpose.

Nope, this one is wood. I suspect it's an out-of-production version...over 200 pages of instructions in 8 different languages. Some of the woodwork is very crude (hollowing out the bottoms of the fenders, for example) but I've got the woodworking tools (ask Harry P. about the bases I've made for him) to overcome this minor setback. Once again, the scale is in range, but I'm not sure the aspect of an all wood model is apropos.

It's a 1/10 scale model built entirely from wood (except for the plastic windshield). Does the wooden aspect disqualify it from this forum/site? The kit is the Wrebbit Mercedes-Benz 500K Special Roadster, with over 500 pieces. I'd post a pic from Photo Bucket, but after the forum changes, I'm not sure how to do it(Gregg's old how-to no longer applies). Here's an uploaded file...

You can use slivers of Post It note paper (using the sticky part, of course). The adhesive is very low tackiness and the part releases easily.

And don't forget the mid-forties Chevies with the vacuum-assisted three-on-the tree. Are you looking for information on a specific model? That might help getting answers.

Here's a vacu-form you can make at home. It measures a tad under 6" x 7" http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/101743-poor-mans-vacu-form/

When using Tamiya (or other small paint cans) I generally spray the whole can into a glass jar that is about 3" in diameter; I also put half-a-dozen BBs (Daisy Air Rifle) in there to assist the mixing. For larger cans, decant until you have about an inch or so of fluid visible. Decant the can, leave the jar open for about 10 minutes, then close the jar. Shake it gently and crack open the lid to see how much gas remains. Repeat as necessary.

I like the Krylon satin too...spray it on a spoon (so you don't have to strip it) and see if you agree. Alternatively, you could use a satin clear over the black. Once again, I like Krylon for that too.

Another approach to the vigorous shaking is to turn the can upside down (repeatedly) for several days, then shake the heck out of it.

Shrink several layers of (insulating) shrink vinyl on a piece of wire, then square off the ends with an Xacto. Paint as desired.