BigTallDad

I agree on both points.

It's often called decanting. If I want to dissect a can (something I rarely do) I'll use a long woodworking clamp to depress the spray nozzle. When I think the can is empty, I'll set the assembly in the sun for an hour or so, then immerse it in cold water. After a few minutes in the cold water, drill a hole, then use the tool of your choice to open the can.

There is an online site (I can't remember the name) that has instruction sheets for a BUNCH of models. Look up the instructions for the kits mentioned above to confirm that's what you're looking for.

GM made up for it with the ignition switch recall.

The fact that the dipstick is removable says a lot; I use brown magic marker instead of oil.

Just wrap some sandpaper (wet/dry) around a popsicle stick and gently remove the flash. You can make your own sanding sticks by using wet/dry sandpaper (grit of your choice), popsicle sticks, and CA cement (or contact cement). Glue some wet/dry back-to-back, then cut narrow strips for the slots between the vanes. Be gentle!

Another thing to consider... If you start the thread then edit it as progress occurs, the thread will not be "bumped" to the top of the list and a lot of your effort might go unnoticed. By replying to your own thread, it gets "bumped" and is a lot more visible.

Do NOT put lacquer over enamel! Enamel over lacquer is OK, but not the opposite. Krylon has Crystal Clear Acrylic Coating 303A that works pretty well over enamel, lacquer, acrylic, etc.

Start your thread, then add replies as progress occurs. I don't think your proposed edit approach would go over very well. For something different, why not do a reverse Work In Progress (WIP). Take pictures as you build the model. Post a picture of the completed model and work backwards from there. I've seen too many WIPs that were never finished; I'm guilty of that myself. The reverse WIP approach ensures that the model gets completed and steps during the build are displayed.

Right out of the can, but bear in mind I'm sealing ink-jet decals. If I were spraying a model, I would decant and airbrush.

Very nicely done, great color selection, and excellent foil work. Did you notice the firing order (in raised numbers) on the exhaust manifold? Galaxie did a great job in paying attention to detail on this series of kits. I understand the door handles, but where is the vertical bar in the center of the grille, indicating it's a '48? The primary visual difference between the '47 and 48 models was that bar...absent on the '47, present on the '48. I say this as a former owner of a 1:1 '47 (my very first car) with an aftermarket vertical bar.

I'm not sure sanding a metallic is a good idea. You might want to practice on plastic spoons...spray 'em and sand 'em.

You can also use food dye with Pledge to tint the windows

Are the paints at room temperature (mid 70s)? Bear in mind food dehydrators are often used to accelerate the drying process by using heat, so if you're painting in a garage with no A/C, the warm paint will dry more quickly. It costs virtually nothing to cool the paint down using an ice cube or two. Why not give that a try on a plastic spoon?

Glad I could help.

I do the same, except I use a small piece of balsa instead of a toothpick. The balsa is more absorbent than toothpick wood (whatever that is) and sometimes having a flat surface is helpful when removing paint.

If you're entering the model in a contest, take the hood off and set it aside (making sure the underside of the hood has great paint etc. in case a judge picks it up and looks it). That way judges have a better view of the engine compartment.

Krylon has a "Crystal Clear Acrylic Coating 1303A" that I use for sealing decals. It has a very nice gloss and obviously is acrylic.

How big is the rattle can? Some folks swear by (and sometimes at) Rustoleum, Krylon, etc. and they are much larger cans than Tamiya and Testors.

Super glue (CA) will work. I'd suggest using the medium, gap filling variety; it gives you a little more "work" time.

Lay out and drill the holes with a small drill bit, then use a brad point bit to drill the larger holes.

Try MICRO SET from MICROSCALE. There are instructions on the bottle for decal removal.

To me, it would seem that putting the model in a sealed Tupperware container would lengthen the dry time.

Place a large Tupperware container over the model.

Great looking rust spots/holes!