BigTallDad

You could also use two 6 volt lantern batteries wired in series...kinda bulky, but it'll work. I have a '55 Chevy with headlights (hi/low beam), parking lights, tail lights, brake lights, and turn signals, all using grain of wheat bulbs and a railroad crossing flasher for the turn signals. I use a 12 volt adapter that plugs into the wall, but I can also use the lantern batteries if I enter the model in a contest.

I was just doing a quick & dirty test of the paint. For a real project, I'd use thin strips of styrene or putty (applied very carefully, using masking tape which is later removed.

If you can find it, get a can of Krylon paint called "make it suede". Experiment with some scrap plastic, such as a blister pack, spraying from about 12" (or so) away. I used masking tape for the seams. Even though the paint comes in different colors, you can still paint over it with a satin/matte color of choice. This paint can also be used to simulate bed liners in pickup trucks, as well as vinyl interiors.

I did a Google search and found this youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXtaGk5T8Fk

I suspect changing your name might cause a loss of all your posts, unless those posts were manually re-linked to your new name. As of this writing, you have 45 posts, which is a manageable number; imagine, however, someone with hundreds or thousands of posts!

As an afterthought, buy insurance for the package for a substantial (yet affordable) amount.

Get a display case and temporarily attach the model to the base, using wire. Tape the lid to the base, then put the whole assembly in a padded cardboard box. Make sure the word FRAGILE is prominently visible on all sides of the box.

Pretty much. Since accuracy will probably not be an issue, just about any Chevy 6-holer will do. The primary (visible) difference in the sixes was the method of attaching the valve cover. Up until '54, the valve cover was held on via two studs coming up from the heads and nuts held the cover in place; in '54, flanges were used on the bottom/side of the valve cover, attaching to the heads with bolts instead of nuts.

Christie Brinkley is very close

I second that motion!

Normally I would agree with you, but the upcoming Modelpalooza in Orlando judges by different rules (AMPS?). They say "you're competing against yourself" and there might several silver awards but no gold! The best model on the table does not automatically get first place. That reminds me of kindergarten: when using crayons, staying within the lines and using correct colors earns a gold star; staying within the lines and using incorrect colors earns a silver star, and so forth.

Yes, the pre-drilled/wired distributors are nice, but seeing a plug's porcelain and a boot on it is also very nice.

This approach has worked for me: Get a straight board and clamp the body to it, making sure the clamps won't leave marks; use shims as necessary. Place this assembly in a food dehydrator for a few hours.

I'm kinda old fashioned (or crazy) in that I still like to do it the hard way. Here's how I drill distributor caps (scroll to the top of the thread): http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/101796-drilling-distributor-caps/#comment-1425084 And I make spark plugs/boots/wires in this fashion (scroll to the top of the thread): http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/101815-snug-spark-plug-boots/

Something about that police car doesn't look quite right...is that a Bel Aire and are those the optional rubber bullets on the front bumper? Most police cars I've seen are the cheaper models with no frills from the factory.

Mighty ambitious! I think I'd rather build the Revell version of the '48 Ford convertible; it's an excellent kit. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/102575-48-ford-convertible/

Why not start with the AMT PROSHOP kit (#8455 with yellow box art) instead? This is a skill-level 3 kit, comes with PE and plug wiring, no solid axles, etc. I've built it and was impressed with the detail. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/101899-57-chevy-convertible/

Thanks for sharing your results!!You might want to consider getting some clear plastic spoons, rather than mess up a clear part you have.

I stand corrected; the images on the web were not very good. I don't know if the OP will address that or not, but it's an unusual detail that's worth pointing out.

For the sake of accuracy...the '69 GP had a "regular" antenna; my '71 GP (1:1) had the antenna imbedded in the windshield.

I like to emphasize the tread grooves on a tire, First, I'll put some light/medium brown paint on the tread surface, making sure it gets down into the grooves. Then I'll put the tire on a Dremel drum sanding bit (using masking tape as a shim, if necessary) then put that in a drill. Turn the drill on at a slow speed and use sandpaper to remove the paint from the surface of the tread. I use a drill because a Dremel is far too fast. When all said and done, you have a tire that shows wear as well as dirt in the treads.

Any pictures?

Perhaps more care when removing the chrome parts...are you just twisting them off? I might be obsessive, but I'll cut the sprue, then use straight (not curved) toe nail clippers to get close to the part, then sand until the tab is completely removed.

Great tutorial! As an alternative to a candle flame (which could leave soot in the plastic) consider using a soldering iron...constant, clean heat

Great idea, execution, and tutorial!