BigTallDad

That almost looks like the box art, maybe even better. Nice job!

You drilled through the valve covers... Is it a hemi?

Get some craft sticks (about the size of popsicle sticks) from a craft store or Walmart; don't get tongue depressors, as they are thin, will warp, and mess up your sanding. Most auto parts stores sell a variety pack of wet/dry sand paper. Get a pack of those and use Miatatom's foam tape method to attach the sandpaper to the wood. If possible, leave enough area on the wood to mark the grit of the sandpaper. Alternatively, use a color-code scheme with magic markers, such as red = 320, yellow = 400, black = 600 etc. and mark the edge of the wood.

Here's a vacu form you can build at home http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/101743-poor-mans-vacu-form/

Are you talking about Pearl Ex? I agree with SfanGoch, it's just a name. Pearl Ex does, however, have another term called Interference, and I believe it relates to how much the flake interferes with the carrier coat. Another way to think of it is how much light does the flake reflect? Here's a spoon I did using Pearl Ex interference gold mixed in with black paint. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v690/bigtalldad/IFGoldinblack.jpg

That looks like it came from a smoke-filled house. Try using some straight bleach on an area that won't be visible after assembly.

Actually, there would be two different parts (driver/passenger side) owing to the curvature and protrusion at the top.

I should have been clearer... If the sidemarkers or scripts are nice and crisp, it might not be necessary to apply foil first and remove paint after each coat. If the sidemarkers or scripts are faint, waiting until the final coat might cause a build-up of paint and clarity could be lost. PLAN B: Make a foil casting of the sidemarker, then sand off the sidemarker. After body painting is complete, paint (if necessary) and attach the foil casting.

It would help to know what model you're referring to. Are the side markers molded into the fenders similar to hood/trunk emblems? If so, put some BMF over them and, after each coat of paint, use a piece of wood (I prefer balsa, more porous) soaked in lacquer thinner to remove the paint from the BMF. After all is said and done, cut a decal of the proper color and use it for the lens.

OK, with the preceding in mind... Most (if not all) states require a unique license to operate a motorcycle. I wonder how many folks have purchase a trike, thinking it was a "car", and are operating it without the proper license.

Are tricycle cars (three-wheelers) legal in all 50 states?

Great looking interior, Steven! The only piece of advice I didn't see here was paint the light colors first, then graduate to the darker colors...dark covers light better than light covers dark.

Did you actually purchase over 40 containers of nail polish or are some of the colors shown mixes?

Perhaps you could get some tape or material that looks like carbon fiber and apply it to a wooden base. http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=carbon+fiber+tape&tag=geminimobiles-20&index=aps&hvadid=30273524092&hvqmt=p&hvbmt=p&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_61il4obi09_p

Why not just reply to the original post and add more photos?

What color did you use for the final color? If it isn't black: Put about 1/2 teaspoon of that color in a small container, add a drop of black Tamiya acrylic as well as some thinner (as mentioned above). After stirring, the mixture should have about the same consistency as ink. Using a small brush, place a drop of the mixture in a panel line; osmosis will cause it to "wick" along the line. If it doesn't, add more thinner and repeat. A gentle polishing should remove any unwanted marks. To me, a black panel line is too stark if contrasted against a light color; that's why I prefer to mix the final color with a hint of black.

Several times recently I have received a "you have been banned from this site" when I attempted to view a post. I have zero warning points, so there might be a software hiccup rearing it's ugly head.

Careful...there are still some lacquer-based fingernail polishes and I don't think they would play well with plastic window glass. An acrylic-based polish might work better.

I use the blue Scotch low-tack masking tape. If the roll is kind of old, I'll lightly lay a strip down on a clean surface and, using a steel straight edge, trim off an edge. The freshly-trimmed tape then gives a nice sharp line.

I agree. Another alternative would lacquer thinner, which is probably easier to find that aircraft stripper.

I'd also ask if the paint was really dry. It almost sounds like the paint hadn't fully dried and was interacting with the BMF adhesive.

A couple of suggestions... You can use a product called liquid mask if you still want to paint the trim. It's water based, so clean up (of the brush) is a breeze. Simply paint it on, use a sharp Xacto to scribe the edges, and pull away the film where the paint will be applied. If you're new to using BMF, this might help http://www.italianhorses.net/Tutorials/BareMetalFoil/bmf.htm

I posted a tutorial on using Make It Suede; you might want to take a look at the final results.

If you can find it, Krylon has a rattle can product called Make It Suede and it requires minimal effort to come up with a great looking top (or bed liner, for a pick up truck).