BigTallDad

Nice job on that sleeper (312 with a 4 bbl and dual exhausts). Since I hate painting black, I'm especially impressed with your results.

Be careful with Purple Power and metal...the solution can attack the metal and eat a hole in it.

I remember the Mercedes with Corvette front fenders

Plan B: Get a small space heater and place it on the other side of the room; use it instead of the baseboard heater.

Nicely done. What did you use to simulate the vinyl roof?

How old is the solution in the purple pond?

They are free at the Golden Arches.

Braided fishing leader is available in small sizes.

Have you ever worked with Pearl X? A silver Pearl X in a flat grey might work.

I use double sided (adhesive) masking tape; it can be found at golfing stores and is used to put new grips on clubs. Just cut off a small piece, mount it on a popsicle stick, mount the part, and sand (or paint) away

What are you contemplating painting white? the lenses? What kit are you working on?

I'll probably catch some flak over this (it won't be the first time), but you can buy a saddle valve/clamp combo at your local hardware store. Look/ask for the valve that allows you to connect the ice-maker on your refrigerator (or a humidifier) to a water line. It allows you to punch a hole, then turn the valve on/off to decant the paint.

According to the box shown in the picture, it's 1/24

Are the LEDs you used dimmable? If so and just for giggles, add a resistor in series with the headlights and a switch that will bypass (short out) the resistor; this will give you headlights with high/low beams, depending on whether the switch is in the open or closed position. In a similar fashion, a resistor/switch combo can be used to provide tail lights and brake lights.

Sorry, but I I said "knife", not "blade"...to me the knife includes the handle. Exotics_Builder showed a picture of such a compass. If the compass will hold a lead pencil, it'll probably hold an Xacto knife handle. I'd strongly suggest you use an Xacto handle that has the swiveling blade.

Maybe it's just me, but it seems the majority of the responses deal with precision milling of metal material. The OP also wants to work with styrene. My gut tells me a Sherline might be overkill for styrene.

The $47 USD included shipping.

I bought one on ebay for $47 USD

Harry, if you're responding to my post...the distance between the pivot pin and the blade tip determines the width of the trim. The "roundness" of the opening is of no consequence, since the pivot pin is following the opening of the wheel well.

Or you could use a compass...remove the pencil and insert an Xacto knife. Place the pivot pin inside the fender well, tweak the adjustment, and run the blade along the outside of the fender well.

Depending on the size of the jar, you might want to put more than one BB in it.

Everything looks great! Have you tried shooting a light-colored model (as in white or yellow)? You might have to go with something other than aluminum foil, such as a light blue.

If you want to stick with the drill, this is what I use. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/102101-a-handy-accessory/ The base of the cradle can be screwed to a 2 x 4 and a tailstock can be mounted on that also. Since the drill is a low speed (compared to a lathe) motor, I use a Dremel and various bits for shaping.

I use a Dremel tool with a cutoff disc when working with aluminum or brass. Try using a razor saw on styrene.

Outstanding work on the rusty appearance! Somehow the shiny chrome and clean whitewalls don't go with the rest of the "look", but that's just my un-asked opinion.