BigTallDad

Drop dead gorgeous. Ever thought of including the fender welting?

Your tutorial suggests using MS Word, but not everybody has that product. If you have a Windows operating system, you have MS Paint, which is just as effective as MS Word.

Also, lightly sand the part (to remove the glaze from the chrome) prior to the chemical bath.

Round the edge of a 1" wooden board and lay the styrene on top. Place this in an oven pre-heated to 300 degrees. The bending will occur very quickly, so keep an eye on it and remove immediately.

I agree. After all, it's not as if you want to know before you buy it...you already have it. Filling with this putty is one thing; how well it reacts to common paints is another. As a suggestion, get a plastic spoon (free at the golden arches) and fill part of the backside on the handle (leave some of the handle as-is so you see how your paint reacts to the plastic). Sand, prep, prime, etc. and let us know how it worked out.

The box art for the Revell '57 Chevy Nomad shows bumper guards on the rear. I looked on the Drastic Plastic site and, sure enough, the instructions show the rear bumper with guards; the front bumper, however, doesn't have 'em. Well, it's a start...

Spraying from three feet away, I'm surprised you got any paint at all on the part. I hope you used a painter's tarp...just kidding.

Sounds interesting; got any pictures?

My bottle of Testor's Dullcote indicates it's a lacquer, and you might experience the same problem with the paint never quite drying. Krylon has a rattle can flat acrylic, but make sure the tire is mounted on the rim before you apply it. If you flex the tire after spraying the Krylon, you'll see cracks and stress marks in the clear (ask me how I know this).

I'm not surprised; this thread has been idle for over six years.

As in cardboard? I doubt it...too porous.

A helicopter?

Does the paint coat have even a HINT of orange peel? If so, wet sanding would be called for unless the paint coat is metallic. Then it's purple pond time. As was mentioned before, there are shinier finishes that come to mind; Tamiya TS 13 works very well for me.

Krylon offers an acrylic-based flat clear...less than $4 USD at walmart.

Make sure you're using acrylic clear; an oil based paint will probably never dry completely.

Instead of practicing on donor models, use plastic utensils (knives, forks, and especially spoons); also, smaller beverage bottles and blister packs are good items too.

Take a look at a '55 Chevy V8, which had the filter on top of the engine. https://www.google.com/search?q=55+chevy+oil+filter&rlz=1C1AVNG_enUS698US698&espv=2&biw=1280&bih=617&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiV_vLXwcvRAhWkxYMKHX4XBpUQ_AUIBygC#imgrc=_ORUUGvWpcdnpM%3A

I'm like crazyjim except for the "prompt order" part. I was going to show all of my 2016 builds, but there aren't any.

It looks like a rare kit; is insurance part of that shipping charge?

For washes, I take several approaches... 1. I generally paint with one media, such as an oil-based paint, then wash with a water-based (acrylic) paint. This will contribute to the "pooling" of the wash in low areas. 2. A gloss enamel and an acrylic wash will concentrate the pooling further; a flat enamel and an acrylic wash will spread the wash over a larger area. Snake45 suggested sanding the tread; I take that a step further. I'll paint the tread surface with medium-to-light brown, making sure the paint gets in the tread crevices. Then I do like Snake45 suggests by placing the tire on a large Dremel sanding drum, chucking it in drill (Dremels are much too fast IMHO), and sanding at a moderate drill speed.

In addition to viscosity and pressure, don't overlook distance; those three items are the Holy Trinity for airbrushing.

Chuckle...I used to work on the 1:1 aircraft at McDonnell, before I was drafted. I was a Com/Nav/Ident techie, so if I can answer questions, send me an email...nice looking car, by the way

In most cases, the errors are apparent. I'm not sure what's wrong with this one, unless the body colors are wrong. Help me learn what's wrong with this box art.

Don't expect a whole lot of precision from those lathes. Every tool rest shown relies on the operator to provide proper spacing and depth. Making multiple, identical parts would be very difficult if you don't do resin casting. Totally unrelated...this is my 400th post!

Glad I could help. Does the engine in the picture look familiar?