BigTallDad

You included viscosity and pressure, but left out one part of the Holy Trinity...distance.

Make sure you're using Silly Putty and not Play Dough; Play Dough leaves an oily residue behind.

They look great! Almost too shiny though.

First, make sure you have the mesh cut...I'd use a circular punch (Harbor Freight has a set for about $10) to get a nice round part. Next, mix your epoxy, then spread a thin layer on the surface of something that won't absorb any of the fluid; a piece of blister pack works nicely. Now, press the flared end of the intake trumpet into the resin, then set that end onto the mesh previously cut. After (perhaps) some tweaking for alignment, let that piece cure. Repeat as necessary. You might be able to do several tubes in one effort, depending on the cure time of the epoxy.

Good info! If you want a brighter red, do a white stripe first, spray a light coat of clear acrylic, then use the red. Another thing to consider...use a white marker on a body part, spray a light coat of clear acrylic, then lay a clear decal over it. Not everybody has an Alps printer, and this could be a good work-around. I've done the narrow whitewalls before, using a battery operated drill

I'm sorry for your loss. Like others, I never met your Dad but had great respect for him. There's one model in his collection you might want to keep: it's mounted on a wooden base, the base has batteries on the underside, and the base has a switch to activate the lights on the model. I built that base, as well as a couple more for him. I'll miss him too.

Tea strainers (for loose tea) will also work.

When you need an answer but just can't find it online, post the wrong answer on FB. Within a few minutes, some clown will correct you.

Did I miss something? Since you said "I forgot my Tamiya instruction sheet" that suggests you still have it. Did you forget it or lose it?

Were your clear plastic parts attached to a sprue? If so, test the cement on the sprue and see for yourself.

Thieves and thugs? Oh well, I'm considering the source.

I'll call the Honda a muscle car the same day I see the local biker gangs riding rice burners.

I've decanted rattle cans using other methods, and in all of those (including this post) I've run into the annoyance of the straw getting extremely cold, to the point where my finger got numb.

Very few things are perfect, but these work extremely well. The straight cutting line allows you to cut very close to the part. I'm surprised none of the other posts mentioned WEAR EYE PROTECTION

I use toenail clippers. If you look hard enough, you can find a pair that cuts a straight (not curved) line.

What are stretch walls? I've never heard that term used before.

Another Ferguson! I've built the Revell version and I had no problems gluing the inner fenders & firewall in place prior to painting.

A former room mate of mine had a yard display business (births, weddings, birthdays, etc.) and she made her own signs; had her own vinyl cutter and all the accessories. She used the semi-transparent transfer tape extensively...after the letters/designs were cut out and the excess removed, the transfer tape was placed on the vinyl and burnished on. Since the transfer tape is slightly stickier than the vinyl-to-backing, the artwork could be pulled off, then placed in the desired location. The adhesive on the vinyl is stronger than the adhesive on the transfer tape. so as long as you didn't use brute force, the artwork stayed in place while you removed the backing. Brett asks a good question. If you have it, use it; otherwise, the masking tape approach will help.

You can also use low-tack masking tape. Cut a strip about 1/4" wide by 2" long and place it across the center of the redline; cut another strip about 1/8" wide by 2" long and place it across the center of the redline perpendicular to the first strip. You should end up with something that looks like cross-hairs in a telescope. Remove the redline from the backer, using the technique described before if necessary. Grasp the ends of the 1/4" strip and center the redline on the tire, making sure the 1/8" strip is also centered. Rub the redline onto the tire and carefully remove the masking tape. The masking tape prevents distortion and keeps the redline round while allowing a reasonably precise method of centering the redline.

I generally try to wash my hands in a degreaser before I start any modeling-building sessions...keeps the parts cleaner (thanks Art Anderson)

I've not had the problem of the base coat showing through the white decal. How old is your decal paper? Plan B: paint a slightly over-size white stripe on the area for the decal, then print & lay a clear decal over that.

Why not print it on white decal paper?

Very nice work, and that includes to photography. Is it really 1/124 or is that a typo?

I recently picked up a '92 Olds Supreme resin cast and, after setting it on a flat surface, noticed that there is about a 1/4" twist in the body, front-to-back. If I take a very flat board, attach the body with non-marking clamps (with perhaps a few shims to "over correct" the twist) then set that assembly in a dehydrator, will the heat cause problems in areas that are not under stress? For example, would I get a roof melt-down even though there is no pressure on the roof?

I agree! I see cost as a drawback. Averaging $20 (which includes shipping) for one 3.5" by 8" sheet...that's approximately $100 USD per square foot.