BigTallDad

This topic was very recently discussed. Take a look here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/125538-washes-to-bring-out-details-make-my-own/

What if you took a picture of a "real" headlight, sized it accordingly, and printed a decal to fit over the kit headlight?

Goo Gone is a non-abrasive, non-solvent, citrus-based product that works very well for removing residual adhesive. I'd highly recommend it. It will leave a residue of it's own behind (kind of greasy to the touch) but that's easily removed with Windex or soapy water.

I have Windows 7 and the fix for Chrome works fine for me.

It worked!!! I wonder how long it will take PhotoBucket to make some changes to nullify this.

I disagree. I constructed a piece similar to the one shown and it is perfect for centering a drill bit on the peak of a distributor nipple.

That arrangement also works well when drilling distributor caps. I have a tutorial using the brass tubing for drilling distributor caps but, thanks to PhotoBucket, it is now difficult to follow.

It would appear that the terms micrometer and caliper are being used interchangeably...not true. They are two completely different devices. A micrometer looks like a lower-case "d" (or a "b", if flipped over); it can also remind one of a capital "P". Calipers remind me of a vise, opening or closing to obtain a measurement. A micrometer, dollar for dollar, will provide a more accurate measure of an outside dimension (or thickness of a piece of material) than calipers; calipers, however, can also provide in inside dimension. Just my two cents worth.

I use watercolors (on the dry oval-shaped palatte like we used in grade school)

It's a method to ensure that all four tires are in contact with the base.

Same approach I use.

Another awesome build! I'm somewhat puzzled by the title "1948 Ford Convertible Club Coupe"...in my mind, a club coupe is a steel top.

When sharpening scissors, a more severe angle (60 degrees or so) will be required because there are two pieces involved in the cutting process. These two pieces overlap for the cut. When two pieces meet each other (such as the cutters in your video) the angle is approximately 45 degrees. The steak knife should be about 20 degrees or so. There is a LOT more to be covered when it comes to sharpening (such as sharpening meat cutting knives for slicing or stabbing), but you've got a lot of info that should get on your way. If you have any problems, PM me.

You (and the video) are correct.

If you've never sharpened a cutting tool, practice on something cheap, like an Xacto blade. Learn the difference in the direction of the sharpening stroke: stroking away from the cutting edge will leave a burr (which must be removed); stroking into the edge (as if you were attempting to slice off a piece of the sharpening material) does not leave that burr. Understand the angle of your stroke. If the angle is high (45 degrees, for example), more force will be required when using the tool; tools sharpened to a 20 degree bevel tend to "feel" sharper because they cut more easily. I'm 74 years old and have carried a pocket knife for almost 70 years. I use a 1000 grit diamond stone, followed by a stone almost the consistency of marble, ending with the backside of a leather belt that has lots of jeweler's rouge on it; when using the stones, I use about a 15 degree angle and stroke into the cutting edge, the belt is used like a razor strop, stroking away from the edge, using the same 15 degree angle. The final pass (singular) on the strop on each side of the blade is about 30 degrees and a very light touch. I can shave hair with my hunting & pocket knives.

Does the cost include numerous trips to the "Purple Pond" and the expenses associated therewith?

I'm still recovering from surgery and a personal loss.

I saw this on Google, and "masking" immediately came to mind. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Rust-Oleum-Peel-Coat-Peelable-Primer/193883061. Spray an area, use an Xacto to scribe/remove the area to be painted, then spray (rattle can or airbrush). Any toughts?

If you have Windows you have MS Paint. Find the image you like, right click, select Open With, the choose Paint. Clean the image up as desired, select the area you want, then select Resize (upper left area of the options bar). Enter a percentage for reduction (or enlargement, if that's what you want), and press Enter. I typically will expand the borders of the image displayed, select the area, and copy it. I then paste, move the pasted area to an open area (provided by the expanded borders) and Resize. I'll paste again, move that image to a clear area, and resize again, using a different percent. Repeat as necessary, until you have the size you want. Once again, I have a tutorial for this process but I'm being held hostage by PhotoBucket.

Or you can use a photo-etch saw blade, starting very lightly, then gradually adding pressure.

That could be box art! Very well done.

Do you have to be a subscriber the NG? I tried to create a cover last night and it failed; I received an email asking me to subscribe, but no image was attached.

Some more trivia: That's the Eisenhower era. Actually, Interstates were also laid out with Civil Defense in mind...every XX number of miles had to have a straight stretch of YYYY feet so aircraft could land. Also, have you ever seen a traffic signal on an Interstate? St. Louis tried that years ago, and I'm still chuckling over that fiasco.

I use black watercolor paint (like you used in grade school). Brush it on, let it dry, then wipe off the excess using a damp business card. I'd show you how to do it, but photobucket is holding me hostage.

Take a piece of aluminum foil (the cheap stuff is thinner and better) and burnish it over the emblem, shiny side out; leave about 1/2" all the way around the emblem. Carefully remove the foil and fill the back-side with epoxy. After the epoxy has cured, trim/sand the ornament. I have a tutorial on this technique...but I also have photobucket, so I can't "walk" you through it.