BigTallDad

Why not make a back-filled ornament using aluminum foil and epoxy?

Note that the shipping price is higher than the item price.

I agree, although I'd leave the firewall the same as the body color. Are my 74 year old eyes playing tricks or is the battery missing?

That's an opaque pen, which would probably allow the cover underneath to show through (somewhat). So much for whitewalls.

Goo gone (a citrus-based product) followed by Windex (sparingly, if you're painting with acrylic). Goo gone removes the residue; Windex removes any traces of Goo Gone.

Same here. I put a thin piece of wood on the bottom so I don't have the saw teeth contact the aluminum. I also have one of those nifty power miter saws from Harbor Freight, but rarely use it. Even with minimal use, I've had to replace the ON/OFF switch.

Especially if you're using a septic tank! I can't imagine that stuff sitting a few feet under my front yard. Fortunately, my well is in the back yard, so the leech fields from the septic have a looong way to go to affect my water.

Just make sure the tea strainer, chain, etc. are stainless steel. The purple pond will attack aluminum, copper, and galvanized.

Ditto

If the purple in your pond is biodegradable, why not use it for weed killer?

I used to date a five foot model.

Extremely crisp! Very nice work. I noticed the vent in front of the windshield wipers has some blue showing through...use watercolors (if necessary, steal them from your kids) and brush on a thick coat of black (you're allowed to color outside the lines). After the black has dried, get a business card damp on the edge and wipe away anything you don't want. Yes, you can still do this without risk to this gorgeous model. This is a stellar technique for hubcaps with recessed logos etc. as well as back-painting a chrome grille.

Sounds like you might not be allowing enough time for the ink to dry before using a clear sealant. I'm not having that type of problem. I generally let the ink dry overnight, hit the decal with a few light coats of Krylon glossy clear acrylic, and let the paint dry overnight.

I'd leave it alone...looks like normal wear & tear.

You might be holding the spray can too far away, and the paint is drying in mid-air.

Ditto

Blister paks, CD jewel cases, or you can buy it at a hobby shop or online.

Jimmy Flintstone also has, in addition to the delivery sedan in this thread, the more "conventional" 4-dr model. I just ordered one.

Since I have a 1:1, I can take photos for you if you have questions...oh wait, I have Photobucket. Guess I'll switch all my P/B pics over to Fotki while I'm recuperating.

I have one and use it once in a while. Like all HF power tools, the on/off switch (in this case the variable speed control) is flaky. If you want to turn pens, you'll have to get more chucks/tailstocks and perhaps cutting tools; these add on's could equal the price of the lathe.

Photobucket should have "grandfathered" in all the old photos as part of their extortion. I'm not a lawyer, but I'm guessing one or more members of this forum have that distinction. Might we have legal grounds for a class action suit? After all, the "bait and switch" premise comes to mind...

They stole my photos too. I can understand charging for new photos, but the old ones should be "grandfathered" in and still available

I've seen a lot of questions regarding the best body filler and so on.... Since very few of us achieve a perfect paint job every time, which body fillers are more resistant to the purple pond etc.? I've I've done considerable work filling in an area, do I need to look forward to doing that again if I have to strip the paint? What fillers are more strip-resistant?

I'm old school math; can you define the ratio in terms of numbers, such as 3:2 please?

FYI O'reilly's gives veterans a 10% discount.