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Everything posted by BigTallDad
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Good info
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Extremely nice work, with great attention to details. Too bad it gets bumped by all the "2017 Album" etc. reposts; right now, I'm looking at the Under Glass topic heading to weed them out, and I'm glad I found this post.
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Very nicely done; I especially like the tubbing! Any engine or interior pics? I'm glad I clicked the "Under Glass" title line. That way I could see topics other than the recent rash of "2017 Collection" topics; otherwise, I might have missed this fine build.
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Take your airbrush to a hardware store; they'll set you up in no time.
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2019 Silverado
BigTallDad replied to dieseldawg142's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
It's still 2017 and we're seeing 2019 vehicles? -
Go to a store that sells fishing stuff and look for braided leaders.
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Chrome tape, from an auto supply store.
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Well done! It's nice to see the reflections in the outside rear-view mirrors. That's one of the subtle things that people (and judges) often overlook.
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Why not cut a hole in the rear panel and connect the hose from a shop vac? You might need to drill a few holes to allow air to enter the box, otherwise you could end up with a vacuum inside the box.
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That turned out nicely! Did you notice that the exhaust manifold had the firing order in raised numbers? Now that is great attention to detail on Galaxy's part! If you're going to use the magnet approach for the skirts, use the magnets on the body or the skirts, but not both; use a small piece of metal (iron) on the mating surface. Otherwise, you might run into the "Opposites attract, etc." situation, find the two magnets are not polarized properly, and the skirts cannot be attached. No, I'm not gonna recommend Velcro!
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Short Downtime Tomorrow
BigTallDad replied to Dave Ambrose's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
at 9 AM on Sunday...in what time zone? -
Engine wiring question
BigTallDad replied to DanR's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
That's a large bunch of engine pictures...I wonder how many of those engines are available in kit or aftermarket form. -
Engine wiring question
BigTallDad replied to DanR's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Remember to have the #1 cylinder on the compression (firing) stroke when performing this operation. I used to pull the #1 plug, put my thumb over the hole, and have somebody crank the engine. -
Engine wiring question
BigTallDad replied to DanR's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Excellent point. All of the previous posts show plug location on the heads, but yours is the first to point out (to me, at least) the firing order on the distributor cap. I've seen far too many "hair part" distributors. -
Very nicely done! That metallic paint looks very much in-scale. I'm curious about the title of the post (street gasser). Maybe it's my tired old eyes, but I didn't see any brake/tail lights and I couldn't be sure there are brakes in the front. If that's the case, it isn't street legal.
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1940 Ford Resto Rod (outdoor pictures added 08/12/17)
BigTallDad replied to Lovefordgalaxie's topic in Model Cars
Very nicely done! Out of idle curiosity, did you run out of black paint (just kidding)? -
Very nice looking overall and that's a nice recovery on the tailgate. At first I thought the steering wheel was upside down, but you installed it correctly and the wheel is convex rather than concave. Any front-end shots? I'd like to see where the starting crank lever goes.
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You hit it out of the park on this one. BTW, is there such a thing as Amateur Touring?
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What's with all the secrecy in classified ads?
BigTallDad replied to LDO's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
"PM sent" is shorter and easier to type. -
Remoing flash from tiny wheel spokes
BigTallDad replied to aurfalien's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I've heard of using thread to open doors/trunks/etc. It might be worth a try. -
Silver vinyl paint suggestion?
BigTallDad replied to Mike Chernecki's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
The light grey appears to be a unanimous choice. Chevy did use a shiny material, but on the welting of the upholstery -
I've not seen any convertibles, so here's one. It's the Revell kit, with added wood. The light-colored wood is real 1/32" plywood and the darker inset wood is from a decal I made. This is not a "true" woodie, since the trunk is still metal; it's an adaptation of the approach Chevy used on their sedans. My approach to "Woodification" is contained in a tutorial as well as a back-issue of the magazine. In the photo above, note the open fresh air vent, a fairly simple (yet obvious) enhancement. The strange looking marks on the bottom of the tires are due to the model sitting on a clear plastic base I tried something new (to me, at least) by putting welting where the fenders attach to the body; I've posted a tutorial on how to do this. The title of the tutorial is "Another use for thread" or something like that. I also modified the plugs/wires to have a tiny bit of the plug showing at the bottom of the boot; there's another tutorial on this one too. The title of the tutorial is "Snug spark plug boots" or something like that.
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Signs of getting old...... at modeling
BigTallDad replied to rel14's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Let's see, I'm 74 and.... Cataract surgery (both eyes) in February Lung infection in March Loss of son in May (suicide) Hospitalization for Aortic Abdominal Aneurism in July Hospitalization to remove malignant tumor in lung in October Yep, the hits keep coming on -
Filling sink marks on clear red parts
BigTallDad replied to Drag Monster's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Thank you. -
Filling sink marks on clear red parts
BigTallDad replied to Drag Monster's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Consider using several coats of clear nail polish to fill the sink marks, then a final coat over the entire lens to smooth it out. Fingernail polish goes on (and dries) thick, so it shouldn't take too many coats. Make sure you use an acrylic-based polish; if you need to remove it, Windex (or other ammonia-based cleaners) should remove it. If the Windex doesn't work, a nail polish remover will take it off but make sure the remover does not contain acetone. I'd used the beloved plastic spoon test for experimentation.