BigTallDad

I use air rifle ammunition (BBs) in the paint jars to facilitate mixing. You can get a lifetime supply (well, almost) at Walmart for just a few dollars.

Plastic spoons are free at the Golden Arches.

What will you be using for the real wood? Boxes of cigars have thin sheets of dark wood to separate the layers; you can also get 1/32" and 1/64" birch plywood at hobby/craft shops, but it will require staining.

Also take a look at braided fishing leaders (at a sporting goods store).

How about a coat of clear that has some Pearl-X mixed in?

Use an electric drill with a bit that is about half the diameter of the head. Low speed is recommended, lest the plastic melt. Drill the head of the pin until you've reached the pin itself; the head should pop right off. Repeat for all pins. After all the heads are removed, the chassis should come off, leaving a portion of the pin protruding; grab that portion with some small vise-grips and twist the pin out.

Everything is extremely smooth, especially the paint. Put that rascal with an appropriate back drop and it would look like a 1:1 Great job!

I'd think that fine thread (as in sewing) might also work. Soak it in white glue, press in place, and let it dry. Any smudges etc. can be removed with Windex and a Qtip.

Excellent pictures; thank you for sharing them. Did you remove the bases on a couple of models? I remember one model had working lights, and the batteries/switch were located in the base.

How do you glue/paint the tape? Most plumbing tape is Teflon, and not many things stick to Teflon.

Very nice looking ducts! If you wrap the wire around a threaded bolt, the threads will make the spacing even. After wrapping the wire, unscrew the bolt and proceed as usual.

Uhhh, this is a thread regarding Toys R Us, not Kaybee, Playco, etc. The question regarding kits at Toys R Us has been answered. Thank you.

Another approach (although very tedious) is wrap small gauge wire around the threads of a bolt, then wrap that assembly with wet paper. Just before the paper is dry, bend the assembly to the desired contour.

Do they carry models? They just filed for bankruptcy and there might be some good deals to be had.

Paint the lighter colors first, then mask them off for the darker colors. Dark colors cover light colors better than light covering dark.

Ah, another lover of the 40's Fords! Very well done! Out of idle curiosity, have you ever considered opening the fresh air vent in front of the windshield? I do that on all of my models of that genre.

I got my electrical power back after six days. Fortunately, my son (who lives two miles away) never lost power after Irma roared through.

As of this post, I'm dead center in the path. Gonna ride it out aka Lt. Dan in Forrest Gump.

Storm shutters, generator, and fuel.

Gloves (at Harbor Freight) are probably as cheap as Goo Gone, and a lot less messy. There might be health risks involved by spraying paint on your skin...

I use the styrofoam/toothpick approach, but I glue/tape something like a small wooden board (for weight) on the bottom of the styrofoam.

"The way I do it is to make a dam around the area using modeling clay. Then pore Smooth On Silicone Rubber into the form. When the rubber has set you can pore resin into the cavity. I use Smooth On because you mix t 50/50 by volume. Good Luck" While you could use the above approach, I'm not sure you could get the rigidity necessary for the compound curve unless you used something like screen wire to hold the shape. Remember, you're going down a flat side, then up over the top of the fender; I'm skeptical about the Silicon Rubber being firm enough to hold that shape. THEN, after the mold is made, it might take several pourings to address the compound curve (that pesky thing called gravity comes into play).

OK, now that I understand what you're seeking... What you use to space the wires you insert into the ferrule?

Ferrules are usually made of metal, and I've never seen metal bands on a distributor. Is the word "boot" more correct? If so, the size depends on the gauge of the plug wire as well as the scale (1/25, etc.) of the engine. I've never seen pre-made boots, either at the plug end or the distributor end of the spark plug wire. From where might you be ordering them?

Try using solder for the shifter arm...it can be hammered flat and bent very easily.