BigTallDad

Great tutorial. You used several shades of blue during the process; is this because you were weathering a blue model? What if the model was a different color, let's say yellow?

You might be able to use tail-light repair tape, available at auto parts stores. That same tape is also available in amber, in case you're curious.

And they can't do wheelies either

I don't think curb feelers would be used on the driver's side of the car, only on the passenger's side. Consider using a thin dressmaker's straight pin, grinding down the head if needed.

The paint should be as perfect as can be before you clear it.

If you're not looking for a bright shiny appearance, why not just paint the part with stainless steel paint?

The rubber strap they supplied gave up the ghost years ago...I just use a regular rubber band now. Another reason I like mine: it will handle almost any size container (within reason).

I've used a Robart shaker for years. https://robart.com/collections/hobby-tools-paint-shakers

Then my original suggestion stands. Do the base coat, then the fogging (as described above) before you paint/decal the pinstripes. BTW, Snake45's use of the term "floating" is exactly what I was trying to explain, but he said it better than I.

I neglected to mention... The part being painted should be vertical, and the airbrush horizontal. Keep the airbrush pointed straight ahead. Otherwise, you can end up with irregular results.

The masking media should not come in contact with the surface being painted. You need to make a shield. Cut out a template from stiff paper, then use (perhaps) two layers of double-sided tape that is slightly smaller than the template. Position the template, press into place, and spray. I STRONGLY recommend you practice this on scrap stuff first. This approach also works for gradient tint at the top of a windshield...place the shield near the top and spray a light coat; move the shield down and spray another coat (which will darken the first coat). Repeat as necessary.

I just did a Google search on "Zero Paints" and had quite a few hits. The first link I opened had an address: HobbyWorld-USAPO Box 33 Amherst 3031 NHPhone Number: (603) 289-2572E-mail: 1hobbyworldusa@gmail.com

Protecting from what? Do you have grand kids that will be zooming it across the floor? If it is sitting on a shelf, perhaps in a case, why bother?

What kind of parts? Styrene, and if so, clear or colored? Resin? Metal? Decals? We need more information...

Use a larger piece of foil, perhaps a 1" square. The excess will help prevent distortion. Center the foil over the emblem, shiny side up. Burnish, remove, and back-fill with epoxy. After the epoxy cures, trim/sand/etc. DO NOT attempt to remove the foil from the emblem...paint over it if necessary.

I'd strongly recommend the AMT Pro Shop (with yellow box art), kit # 8455. It's a skill-level 3, so there are lots of parts. It has a V8 with twin 4bbl carbs, photoetch for grille, rear panels, etc. as well as ignition wiring. I built one as a convertible (sawed the top off) and was impressed with the detail. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/101899-57-chevy-convertible/#comment-1424997

How will you be hiding (if at all) the wiring?

I'd definitely scan the decal sheets before doing anything else.

You can also lay a small piece of thin aluminum foil on top of the BMF, then burnish to your heart's content (within reason) without harming the BMF.

Very impressive job on weathering! Although it might be too late, are you going to make the interior a little more dirty? IMHO, it looks too clean, especially the door jambs...but, then again, that's just me.

Stay away from wood chippers

Did your kit come with photo etch and plug wires? If so, that's the more accurate one espo mentioned (aka pro modeler kit); some thinned gold paint on the grille should suffice. While you're at it, don't forget the black mesh surrounding the headlights.

I've read this post several times and still don't know what you're trying to accomplish. What are "Sorue cutters" ?

Very nicely done! Any engine or undercarriage shots?

Plan B: Take nice shots of the completed model and create a new thread in the Under Glass area. In that new thread, include a link to the thread in the On The Workbench area. That way, viewers can peruse the model during construction and you don't have to do a lot of copy/paste stuff.