BigTallDad

Tom, when I used the term "pull" I erred. Most of the heads that I've seen use multi-colored bristles, and there are perhaps a dozen bristles in a group; multiple groups (of different colors) make up the head. Take the finest set of needle-nose pliers (I actually use a hemostat), grip a single set (color-wise) of bristles, then roll the pliers (using the base of the head as a pivot) to extract the bristles. That way you're using the base for leverage and won't rip off the sub-assembly. I'd strongly suggest you do this process over a waste basket...stray bristles, ya know. As Andy said, the extension is just glued on. Take a short piece of styrene (such as a Bic pen sleeve, styrene rod, part of a thick sprue, a piece from a plastic clothes hanger), sand both ends even/flat. glue one end to the toothbrush head, and whatever you want on the other end. Another approach that works well...a golf tee is generally straight and well lathed. Flatten the ball area of the tee and glue it to the toothbrush head after cutting off the point of the tee. Glue whatever you want to the cut-off area where the point was. ALSO if you flatten the top of another tee, you can attach sandpaper discs (ala the hole punches from Harbor Freight) to the top, then put the tip in a variable speed drill, and get really deep with your sanding. As another note...those cute clear plastic push pins you see on bulletin boards? Heat the metal until you can pull the pin-part out. Flatten both ends of the plastic that remains and glue the wider end to another toothbrush head. You now have a small end that will accept larger diameter discs of plastic/sandpaper. The options are limitless...I have three "handles" and about a dozen heads, so I rarely hand-sand parts. ON A FINAL NOTE! If you make a similar (scaled back) set up that allows your significant other to sand her nails at ease.....

Rather than cut the bristles (and not get them short enough), I use needle-nose pliers and pull out one group at a time. I also made an extension (about 1 1/2") and glued it to a spare head. This allows me to get those ejector pin marks inside the top of the front fenders. Consider using hole punches (cheap at Harbor Freight) for the styrene attached to the head as well as the sanding disks you'll be using; I use several sizes, depending on what I'm working on. The corners on square styrene can dig into the model. I'm not being critical, just making some suggestions. I was going to post a similar thread, but you beat me to it! GMTA

The AMT 2-dr sedan was a bit on the crude side (molded in exhaust/undercarriage etc.). I used the Monogram convertible kit for the under carriage and some of the engine parts.

Do a search on engine turning and see if that's what you want.

Tip for finding lost parts: take a sock and tape the opening to the hose on a shop-vac. When you turn on the vac, stuff the sock down inside the hose, thus creating a filter that will catch the part when the vac sucks it up,

The one on ebay has chrome http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/222345995277?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

Plastic spoons are free at the golden arches. One thing that hasn't been mentioned (or I didn't see it) is prepare the spoon as though it was a model...washing with soap, sanding (if necessary), priming, etc.

I do the same thing, but have been known to substitute contact cement for CA adhesive. I've also use a strip of very thin foam rubber between the stick and the paper; this provides a softer edge when working in concave areas. When using sticks that look like tongue depressors, make sure they remain flat after being moistened. That thin wood has a tendency to curl, and doesn't play well with large flat surfaces. A final note: when using CA, make sure you use wet/dry paper and not traditional paper; the CA will soak through traditional paper, leave a film on the grit, and the abrasiveness is significantly reduced.

Model railroad products might also work.

Sorry, I don't; make sure you include the word model in your search. There is a "Wanted" category on this forum and you might want to use it. It also occurred to me that the 312 engine in the '56 would be incorrect for the '55, since the Thunderbird 312 was introduced in '56. I'm not familiar with your donor kit...if there are "Thunderbird" decals for the valve covers etc. I wouldn't use them.

Looks like you're off to a good start. As a reminder, don't use the 12v battery from the '56 donor kit; the '55 Fords were still 6v.

It is my understanding that the Molotow pens don't do well on large flat surfaces; am I missing something?

Tamiya TS-43 (rattlecan) also works well; make sure you have a prime coat on the model for better results.

Where can I buy it?

Mine came today also; it was in my mailbox when I got home from cataract surgery, so I can't really appreciate properly.

Can you post an image so we can see what you're seeking?

I second that. Walmart primer is very thin, so don't count on it for leveling out imperfections or even minor bodywork. On the other hand, the thin-ness helps preserve fine detail. I picked up some flat black yesterday...it was 0.97 USD before sales tax

You already have the paint, and plastic spoons are free at the Golden Arches. Why not try 'em yourself and fill us in on the results?

Wait until after VD and the candy will be on sale. I do that after Halloween and Christmas too.

I'm coming off double cataract surgery, and the clarity is overwhelming. I've decided to do the Revell '40 Ford Coupe, because it offers so much as far as extending the (excellent) kit features. Maybe a sediment bowl, in the fuel line, that actually has liquid in it...plug wires and boots that actually show the metal bases...and so forth

Although I've not tried it myself, I've read about using a flat piece of plastic. Using a brush, apply a thin layer of paint on the plastic and then (don't let the paint get tacky) lay the tire on the paint. The raised letters will pick up the paint. Any blotches can be cleaned up using an ammonia-based product, such as Windex, but should be addressed while the paint is still fairly fresh. Most of the products I've seen on this thread can be ordered online through craft stores, such as Michael's or Hobby Lobby.

Just make sure the welting is period-correct. 1948 was the last year for welting on Ford automobiles, and 1950 was the last year for welting on Chevy cars (trucks I don't now). Google some images if you're not sure.

There's another way to address the separations between stripes when printing on white decal paper. I use MS Paint a lot; I take a picture (or scan) to get the body color and add it as a custom color to the pallette. Then I can use that color to separate the decal colors...I'll also use that color to outline the entire decal, so trimming is not as critical and there's less chance of white edges.

It's a lot easier than you think http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/101745-another-use-for-thread/ You could probably still do it, unless you used acrylic paint...I'd hate to see the beautiful paint job messed up.

Is there any residue? If so, what do you use to remove it?