BigTallDad

Very nice looking. I like the auto-headlight-dimmer on the dash...you don't see those too often.

How about a picture, please.

Very nicely done. The composite hood looks great! I had to chuckle about your "summer break" remark...in the U.S. most folks are freezing.

Looks very interesting

The photos look great! An observation...the "knock off" hubs should all be pointing in the same rotational direction. That's probably an easy fix.

Consider using O-rings for shims. You can find them at your local hardware store.

I too paint in my garage; I also do woodworking in my garage, so sawdust is abundant. On a day when I plan to paint, I do not open the garage door until painting is complete and the model is housed in a dust-proof case for drying. Opening/closing my door stirs up the dust. When I'm done spraying, the door is opened and the fans are turned on. Even though I wear a respirator, I don't do prolonged painting...I break the job down into several steps. What are you using to wipe down the model? I prefer used dryer sheets (Downy etc.) since they are intended to fight the dreaded static cling. Don't use new dryer sheets, they could leave a residue.

A very different and well done conversion. Maybe it's my tired old eyes...are the vertical bars on the tailgate chrome/BMF? If not, you might want to consider doing that (it isn't too late); the contrast between the chrome and the paint would be eye-catching.

Just curious, Samuel S... is your last name Steenbeck?

Glad to help. We all overlook some simple solutions just thought I'd point out a cheap way to practice.

I guess I'm lucky to have two cans of the stuff. Too bad it isn't readily available anymore...it works well.

I'll match my 2017 trials/tribulations against yours.

That's 18 more than I finished, but I had valid reasons.

Krylon offered (at one time) a paint called Make It Suede. If you can find it, the paint will make some very realistic vinyl roofs.

An important thing to consider is whether the saw cuts on the "push" stroke or the "pull" stroke. Owing to the thin blade, any PE saw will be much more prone to bending if the blade cuts on the "push" stroke. If, when shopping, the product has a close-up image, see which way the teeth slant. If they slant away from the handle-end, it's a "push" stroke and you'll probably be disappointed. As a last resort, trim a "push" blade to allow it to be reversed in the handle, thus making it a "pull" blade.

-29 is almost as cold as it got in Korea. I mowed my lawn two days ago. Welcome aboard, there are some great modelers here.

On show cars, many of them feature chrome valve covers; why not a chrome pan?

Dullcote is a lacquer, and might never get totally dry on a vinyl tire.

That makes three of us. Stellar paint job! Any engine pics?

Thanks. I'm thinking about doing a '53 Vette with an operational top

I kept getting distracted... Cataract surgery, both eyes Loss of my youngest son Aortic Abdominal Aneurism/implant A hurricane Lung cancer surgery Maybe 2018 will be less stressful

Based on the amount of paint it takes to paint a carb. even a small bottle would probably dry out before it's all used up.

Nicely done! It's refreshing to see a "Plain Jane" version of the '57...2-dr sedan, bare side trim on the rear fenders, and (especially) no rubber "bullets" on the front bumper. The back up lights may or may not have been included on the 1:1; I had a '55 210 sedan with a V8, no radio, but it had back up lights.

Glad to help. To practice, use a piece of sprue that has a number on a tab. Foil the number, paint it, then use the balsa (available at most craft stores) and lacquer thinner to remove the paint from the number. That should give you a level of comfort before working on the actual model.

Instead of buffing the paint off the raised letters, I use small, tooth-pick size pieces of balsa soaked in lacquer thinner. Balsa is porous, and will absorb the lacquer thinner much more readily than a common toothpick. If the balsa accumulates a lot of paint, trim that part off and continue to march.