E St. Kruiser50

Thank you Raul . The compliment's are always nice to hear, and what I also enjoy is when I hear that someone is inspired to try to do something new, better or different. For me, that makes sharing here that much more worthwhile and fullfilling. Have a great week-end and Easter - dave

YES CLAY - This one will be shared in the "UNDER GLASS" section when it's done, like we "Normally" do. Have a great EASTER - dave

As 84vanagon said, this is not a staged photo. As with most cat's, The "BAXYBRAT" ( BAXTER ) has to be in the middle of whatever I'm doing, which in this case is checking out a new "PRIZE" I got at a local swap-meet. BAXY liked it too .

I love this topic . It's always fun to see where you guy's play with your "TOYZZZ" Here's a couple of shot's of my "PLAY ROOM", where I get to play with MY toys.

Thanks Scott , and everyone else too. As an artist as well as model builder, I'm really enjoying the subtlties that can be used to accentuate a cars design and style, without disturbing the classic appeal and recognition. From part of my career as a tool maker, and custom/proto-type machinist, I find myself going back to some of those "ROOTS", to get a more, crisp, razor-edge look to the builds, as well as a tight precision fit and sharpness in all the pieces and details, while combining the "ARTSY" side of my designing personality. It's fun to be aware of these new traits and interest's starting to arise in my building style and skills, and being capable of pushing into higher levels of personal accomplishment. To me, the art-deco style of chrome trim and emblems, that to me pretty much ended in the 50's, will probably continue to be a big part of these kind of builds of mine. Instead of removing all the trim, and doing major body design changes as in the past, where the car is almost un-recognizeable, I'm going to explore more of this type of style where the changes are ALMOST UN-RECOGNIZEABLE, but keeps the cars design contemporary and fresh, by using the trim, emblems, and color contrast style's of the '50's, to breath new life into an already beautifully retro-classic design, like this '59 Chevy.

Is this really the THE EMOKID I like the way you describe both builds. Either would be nice, but both would be great . Love the stance and wheels on both. Looking forward to what you decide, and watch as you progress. Well, we're waiting......

EVERYTHING EXCEPT THE BODY I am having so much fun with my old camera, and the newly discovered "MACRO FUNCTION". This is like having a new camera. I love these pic's. The car I'm having fun with too, but it's another one of "THOSE BUILDS" . Found a way to recycle all the old Corvette parts I have left over . Just a few detail's. The hood was sectioned across the front to lower it, a scale 1 1/2 inches, so it would fit in with the over-all fluid motion theme. Fender top's front and rear, rounded ala Chezoom style. '94 'Vette Windshield and cowl. Stretched '05 'Vette interior. Heavily modified door panels and seats. Stretched '05 chassis, in several places, with a '55 Nomad rear clip. Stretched '05 drive-line. Late 'Vette style opening hood, with rear a extension to match the windshield/cowl area. I love the detail of these pic's. Hope you guy's do too .

CONGRAT'S TERRY You did yourself proud on your choice and style of bike, and great you have so many family and friend's to enjoy it with. My first bike back in '64 I still dream about. Once in the blood, I don't think it ever goes away. Have a great summer on your "NEW TOY - dave

CONGRATS KEVIN With all the bad news we hear everyday, it's good to see someone with the courage to follow their dreams, and not worry about all the "WHAT IF'S" in life. An education is one of the most imprtant things you'll ever do for yourself. Keep us all posted during this next year, so we can all encourage you. All the best - dave

When I do late-model windshields, as on the "Retro-Vette", I do the band first, to whatevere depth of color you want, I like it solid, let it dry a day, then I use Testor's transparent black lacquer window tint. Remember to tape over the reverse side that your spraying to protect from any over-spray. This stuff is great, but very watery, so easy does it. Very light coats, but if you "GOOF", you can clean-up with alcohol, and start over. Let dry an hour between coat's. A couple of light coats should be more than enough. I usually only shoot one, and that's plenty for me. Remember to always use scrap sample pieces first, so you have a better chance for sucess on the "GOOD PART" All the best - dave

I decided it would be fun to share a "Preview Pic" once in a while. Hope you enjoy - dave

When "Decanting" and used right away, I havent found any need to "Thin". I use either Acetone or Lacquer thinner for clean-up., and would use any good brand of lacquer thinner for thinning if there were ever a need. I get mine at a local "MEGA" grocery box chain.

Brenden is right. "Metalurgically" speaking, you're asking the wrong question. This is like asking, how do I make plastic really rust. Yes, alum. is a metal, but oxidation and rusting are totally different in process and appearance. The question should be; How do I make any non-steel (ONLY steel and iron rusts) surface look like rust, including alum. Why not just spend $10.00 on RUST-ALL ( which has REAL STEEL PARTICLES in it that rust ), and quit spending so much time trying to re-invent the wheel , then you can "Rust" everything including your "CAT"

Thanks Peter The '55 is just a little something for me that I'm DOING ON THE SIDE. It's also for an inter-club challange in June - FUN.

Hey I'm assuming this is a "Decal Mural". I'd spray a gray base larger than the decal, then after drying over night, lay on the decal, then let the water evaporate overnight. Next day, lay down several coats of clear lacquer over the decal. (This is called an inter-coat clear by the pro's that spray multi colors and graphic's) Let it dry about an hour, and then, using an airbrush, lay down the black, free-hand spraying around the decal. You will get over-spray on the clear over the decal, but the clear that seals the decal allows you to sand out any overspray without touching the decal mural, before you shoot clear top coat. In 15 minutes shoot a light coat of the same clear top coat. 15 minutes later another, and then a third, a wet coat. Let dry for about a week, then rub out and wax. Make sure you do a sample of all the steps you plan on doing, as "Glitches" are better on samples, than the REAL THING Good luck - dave

I got a ton of "DONOR BODIES", so you never know when I'll get real "SEEKWATIVE" and kick out another one .

My old camera just came to life . I read the manual, and discovered it would even do video's. Only had it 5 years . Guess I'll finish reading, and find out what else it does . The Macro setting changes everything. Close up's that are clear and no blur from movement . Who'da thought. I thought this was a pont and shoot . Anyhow, here's a few pics I'm proud of....

NICE on the 12 cylinder Hemi Here's one I did a few years back with a Jimmy 18-71 blower. I used 10 cylinder Viper exhaust and added one xtra "Leg" to each side. dave

HEY DAVE YOU FINISHED IT :o Dave and I (The other dave ), are both in the same club (SABA), and I tease Dave about not finishing his "Inspiring Start's" . He alway's say's he's an "Idea Man". Well Dave, this turned out "BEAUTIFUL", so we'll be seeing this at the next meeting RIGHT??? Nice job Dave - dave TOO MANY DAVE'S lol

Yeah, the B400 is beautiful. Here's a '34 D400 with a chopped roof and scratched top, that I did a couple years back.

Hi Thanks for the posted list of new releases. I had heard that the "DRAGON WAGON" was on the list of Reissues, but I don't see it here. Was I miss-informed??? Thanks for anything you can tell me - dave

SEEMS LIKE THERE'S NOT A LOT OF OPTIONS .

HERE'S SOME QUESTIONS FOR YOU. When is a pre-shaped piece of plastic cut from a kit body, OR KIT PART become "RAW PLASTIC" ??? Now remember, all flat stock, tubes and rod are pre-formed, just like a plastic body. So at what point of modification to either, is the part "Classified as "SCRATCH-BUILT ??? THEREFORE, the real question SEEMS TO BE, what is really "RAW OR BASIC MATERIAL", that wasn't pre-formed, ESPECIALLY WHEN MADE OF PLASTIC ??? WONDERING (WANDERING??) MIND'S WANT TO KNOW .