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James, I have found that using a hobby knife handle works better than a pin vise for small drill sizes.

Have no idea what it means now, but back in my drag racing days, (late 50s) an "altered" meant a change in wheel base lengths and was a special class at the strip. We didn't have funny cars back then so it was limited mostly to fiat coupes and bantam roadsters. As Jairus said, it was mostly to improve weight transfer. Most guys actually shortened the wheel base and also moved the engine back. Made for a great hook up but was a nightmare to drive. Just a twitch off of the starting line could put you into the guard rail instantly.

No your not. She has a 3rd degree black belt in Karate is a Lt. in her high school USMC ROTC, and wants to go into law enforcement. If you could get by her, then her dad, I would gladly stack you in your 1:1, of course leaving room for Nick. Just kidding guys, NOT!

Hey Jaffa. With your skills, and it being a scratch build, How about a chop/ channel job with a blown big block for power with big and littles for stance. I know, I'm sick, but if I had the skills I would sure do it.

I saw it too Hal. Thinking of changing all of my builds to Firestone. (live in earth quake country)

My point exactly. He demonstrates his skills through his in process posts. Though I have no where near the skills shown by him, and for that matter, most of the "regulars" who post on this site, I just plain enjoy the building.

Maybe he just enjoys the building. Why do some people detail the undersides when the model is just going to sit on a shelf?

She will be 18 in October.

75, with a grand daughter older than some members.

Although I have seen some builds here that are truly unique and creative, I have to agree with Cal, at least in my case. Nothing that I do to or add to a model is an original thought. That being said, it still doesn't take anything away from the pleasure that I enjoy from this hobby.

Nice thought, but, assuming that the membership here doubled to about 6000, and we all sent in our $2.00, we would still only have $12,000.00. Hardly enough to start a company.

Add a few "beebees" to it before shaking. Helps a bunch.

Am I missing something or isn't performance, be it, acceleration, top speed, or fuel economy, based on the old horse power vs. weight formula? Motor cycles accelerate great, have high top ends, and get super mpgs. No, not very good for taking the family to grandmas for Xmas or the weekly grocer run, but a very good means of daily transportation. I know, bad weather complications, but an enclosed three wheeler could be the answer. Side by side or front and back two seater? Hinged fiber glass body for exit and entry with heater and wipers? Snow tire adaptability? My mind is racing with the possibilities. I'll bet that some of you guys could come up with a design.

50 years ago a hand held calculator had only four functions, add, subtract, multiply, and divide. It took a separate chip for each function. Now we have hand held devices that can do darn near everything. With the rapid advances that we have seen, nano metrics, carbon fiber, kevlar, memory foam, etc... I would not be shocked if I lived to see something similar to this. But it sure wouldn't come out of Detroit.

Although I appreciate the skills shown, it was more important to me to follow the step by step build. It had a wealth of information and tips for a novice like myself. Many thanks.

Mainly misc chassis parts. Shocks, ladder bars, radiator attachment slots. steering boxes, etc.. Just misc stuff that is easy to overlook until you get to that stage of assembly.

After returning to this hobby after a 40 year lay off, and with a lot of help from you all, I think that I am advancing from the "glue bomb" stage, but I still have a major problem with final assembly. It seems, that no matter how hard I try, I still have "paint to paint" joining situations. Tried liqued masking and plain masking but still seem to miss some spots. I have seen CA and 5 minute epoxy suggested for "paint to paint" joining, but have had little success. Tried applying both with tooth picks, straight pins, and even tried Pentax using capillary action. Nothing seems to work with lasting strength. I see after market products that will dispense minute quantities. Anybody tried them? And with what results? Any and all help will be appreciated.

Hey Abe, Striped some co-ax and it looks great. I'm going to use it on my current build. Hopefully it will show well when I get it finished and posted.

Sorry for jumping on you Zeb. My reaction was based on my relationship with my own mom. Had no idea that so many were less fortunate. You know, there is an old expression, "You can choose your friends but can't choose your parents". Well I guess that I was lucky. Looking back, if I could have chosen my parents, it would have been the ones that I had.

Quit crying like a sissy and just be glad that she is still around. Some aren't.

I've got a can of DupliColor chrome, but it is an enamel. The Black Cherry is lacquer. Any suggestions?

Sounds good Abe, but...unless you are going for the ultimate paint job for shows, contests, and such, don't worry about a few dust particles. I KNOW sacrilege. "Perfect" paint is the least of my worries. Just getting everything to fit together reasonable well is a big enough challenge. But, that's just me.

I have used them many times. Pretty good selection and great prices.

I just got a can of Model Master Dark Cherry Pearl lacquer. It will go on a 55 Chevy street machine. What do you guys recommend for primer and under coat to best bring out the pearl effect? Also, I'm guessing that the best under coats would vary with the top coat color?

Great idea Abe. I've got some old co-ax in a drawer and will give it a try.