Brendan

It looks like a Radical with a motorcycle motor. But I'm probably wrong.

Heads up on Fisher's instructions on those cars. He calls out for the white to be an off white. It should be a bright white. The white changed from race to race depending on what they had in the shops. Good matches are Tamiya's TS-26 or Testors Lacquer Classic White. Thanks for the comments on my cars. Quick and fun builds.

dead on.

This one might be a little harder. Name/make of car. Manufacturer of the motor.

I said it was going to be easy.

Here's an easy one. Want the name/make of the car. Name of the motor. And how many cylinders.

Here are my two Fisher Chaparrals. I'm hoping he re-releases the 917/30. I had bought mine right before he stopped making the cars. And I need replacements for a bunch of the parts. I contacted him right off the bat and he said the next time he has it out to contact him again. Frustrating cause this is a car I want to build.

Aaron, The kits you purchased are excellent kits. You shouldn't have any problems with the parts fitting together. The only areas I had problems with was the Stratos decals. Mine were poorly printed. You'll definitely have fun building these cars.

While waiting for paint, I decided to do a motor as a display piece. The block is from Tamiya Tom's 84C Toyota. Scrounged the turbo and headers off some motors I had lying around. And the exhaust is from the other Eagle kit that's not going to be used. Not going for dead-on match but to give people an idea of what was running this car. Still need to do some detail painting but the majority of the painting is done.

Great looking car. Unfortunately that car is not an Eagle. It is a Tom's Toyota that Guerney ran for the first two races. I built that car some time ago. I wish they would have re-released it when they released the other two kits.

Got the Daytona winner painted. Started on the second car and ran out of paint. Thought I had more but I didn't. It always happens when you want to get painting done.

Jairus, I have a couple of resin fuel caps but they don't flip open. You'd have to make them work. If you're interested, they were extra ones off the Cheetah that I built. Let me know if you need them.

Yes, the one on the bottom is a Dome Zero. It's a decent kit. Not a lot of detail in the interior. There were two versions of this kit available, one with an engine and one without. The engine was a Ford Cosworth Formula 1.

Yes, Fabcar built some 962's but I was thinking of the light versions that ran against Spice. And the ones that were before the 962's.

I can't find too much information on this company. But from the information that I did find, it sounds like it's more like an artisan's air brush. The stuff I found on it was for doing nails at salons. It didn't sound like it would be too good for painting car bodies. I always have reservations about seeing air brushes for this low of a price. The questions that arise off hand to me: Can you get replacement parts? Can you get different size needles and cones? And are they easy to obtain? What's the price on the parts? I think you'd be better off with going with something like a Badger or Pasche or Iwata. The price may be a bit more but it's easy to get replacement parts.

BMW

I've built all those in several versions. I was thinking more of the other cars that were racing back then. Like Fabcar, Lola, Spice, etc. As for Revell, it's a rehash of the Hasegawa kit. So is the 962.

Excellent job on the Hasegawa kits. Wish more companies would make kits of these prototypes. That's not a Toyota Eagle. It is a Tom's Toyota (I believe either an 86C or 87C). Guerney ran those cars for I believe two races. The Eagles were not ready yet.

Ford P68 or Alan Mann

Dub is right. I've been behind cars that have screwed up either downshifting or missing a gear and you get little gear pieces and oil spraying right at you. Another thing that happens is that the drive line sometimes snaps. But the worst thing that can happen is that you lock your transmission up. You hurt both the motor and the transmission.

What you see in the Rohrl video is a technique called left foot braking. You see that a lot with front wheel drive cars and all wheel drive cars. You see him use the clutch every once in a while. What he's doing there is trying to break the back end loose when he's going around corners. The people that do road racing do more heel tow and the people who do off road racing usually do left foot braking. There are a couple of road racers who do left foot braking, but they usually have a background in rally racing.

The first video you show, he is mainly doing rev matching. He's kind of doing heel towing. He's not very good at it. If you listen to the sound, he's not matching the revs up very well. And if you listen to him he says he didn't want to do the heel towing in the corner and that's when you would be doing it. He is correct, though, on the first part in that you don't want to be using the clutch to slow it down. The thing is that most people don't drive fast enough to do damage to the clutch by engine breaking. The second video shows a better example of heel towing. The third video doesn't even show him double clutching at all. He's just down shifting very quickly. And blipping the throttle to keep the turbo spun up. If you want to see someone who is an excellent heel tower, find a video of Boris Said. He's probably one of the best at it.

Iwata air brushes are excellent. One of the best on the market. You'll definitely notice the difference. Just on the feel and the way the paint flows out of the brush. It will blow away your Aztec on the amount of things you can do with it.

I usually clean my resin with a mild dishwashing soap and warm water. Then scrub it well with a good brush, like a toothbrush. After that's been done, I wipe it down with alcohol. As for time, it depends on the resin and how much releasing agent the person used. It shouldn't feel oily when done. You'll definitely know if you missed something when you put your primer down. And if that happens, sand that area and rewash it. Then put on another coat of primer. For glue, good epoxy or super glue works well. Model glue will not work. With super glue you might want to buy some accelerator to prevent fogging on the paint. It instantly sets the super glue to the surface. Acylics will work fine. Just make sure you get a good primer. I tend to use automotive grade. Tamiya's primer works just as well. It's all in the preparation with resin. Take your time with it. You'll find it is like putting together a normal plastic kit. You start off with a good resin company.

The kit decals are excellent. The only area I had a problem with was going around the air inlets on the side of the car. I can't wait any more. I want to see this car done.