Brendan

I agree with Mike. The paint should be fine. The jar paint would be the only one even possibly affected, but I doubt it. Just look at how they ship the product to the stores. They go through all different sorts of temperatures, from extreme cold to extreme heat and they seem to work fine when they get to the stores.

Finally got my black paint yesterday that I ordered several weeks ago. Was able to get the painting done last night. I'm definitely not going to do carbon fiber decaling on the car, mainly due to time constraints. I have less than a week to get it done for the NNL West. Here's some pictures of the finished paint. The red on the side on the front I think I did it a little too far down, but it shouldn't be too noticeable with the winglets that sit over the top of it.

I believe the BBV decal will be able to do both #3 and #4 car. But you would have to check with Kevin.

I've always liked the Footworks car. Never was able to build it when it was in production. Very nicely done Formula 1 cars.

Strada Sports is releasing two new decals for the Corvette. One is the Bad Boys Corvette that raced at Laguna Seca last year. The other is the two versions of the Ron Fellows all white car. Both decals sheets are at the printers. http://www.stradasports.com/

Very nicely done. Now I want one.

Most people's tendencies are that if they're building something they really want, they usually make fewer mistakes. Resin is pretty durable so that if you make a mistake, it wouldn't be too hard to clean up. The best thing is to find a resin kit from a good manufacturer. There's usually fewer things you end up having to fix on them. They usually are easier to put together. But if you're worried, look around at some of the less expensive bodies or kits to see if there's something you like and then pick one up to give it a try. The key thing is to just take your time. The prep work is what's going to make the kit. The way I started out was to go in "head first" and bought a kit of a car that I really wanted to do and just gave it a try. It turned out decent and my skills were better after dealing with the kit.

What is Ismael said is a good way to start. I use light grit sand paper to do a light sanding, then I clean all the resin with a good detergent and warm water, but not hot. Hot water can soften resin. Find a good primer. I prefer automotive primer. See if there's any holes that need to be filled. Use either superglue (CA) or epoxy. Then treat it like any other kit that you would build. Another thing you need to do is to test fit all the pieces before assembling. Resin has a tendency to warp. Sometimes you can get the warpage out of the resin. If you any problems, let us know. We'll try to help. Once you get the hang of resin, you'll find that it's mainly cleanup and prep of the kit. That the only difference.

I prefer to put it on before the clearcoat. The clearcoat that I use does not seem to dull the bare metal foil. I see it as an extra layer of protection so it doesn't get accidentally scraped or that type of thing.

Looking good. Have you started on anything with the chassis?

I think it's mainly from the paint and the glue. We learned to open a window later on.

Kind of the whole point of the show is for expert builders and people who are just building up their skills to get together to learn from each other. I have a tendency to look at the kits of people who are just starting out, because a lot of time they do some things that helps give me ideas. Sometimes they have different ways of doing things, such as technique and the order of the process of building that are different from the way that I build. Sometimes they're better and sometimes they're not, but it make you think. You'll see a huge range of abilities at the show, which is a nice change. This way I'm not always looking at the expertly done kits. Please bring your models; we want to see them.

It's a very laid-back show. One side of the hall is all for the models, which can be placed anywhere. There is no section for particular cars except for the theme and usually youth categories. Dioramas are usually put on the back wall. Very friendly atmosphere. People are very willing to talk and give ideas/suggestions. The other side of the hall is for vendors, which there are a lot of. Easy parking access. I get there early so I can get a good spot to display my models. There's food places that are fairly close by. Hope this kind of gives you an idea. Even if you're not going to show your cars, come anyhow. Lots of people come to see the models and to check out the vendors. It's one of the best shows that I've been to. There is usually a get together on the Friday night before the show for people coming from out of town. It should be up on the NNL West site.

When I built that kit, I used Testor's enamel small jar paint. They make kind of a bright green which is a pretty good match for the Quaker State Green. It matches the decals very nicely. Only problem is that it is enamel. Might also want to try Tamiya paint. I think it's X-15, which I believe is a bright green. It would probably work too. I'm sure somebody makes an automotive lacquer of Quaker State Green. MCW, I believe, also carries a green that would work. Hope this helps.

I would stay away from non brand name air brushes. For example, if something breaks, are you able to get the parts for them? Your best bet would be to buy a double action airbrush. They are actually easier than a single action. You can control the spray better. They're worth the extra amount of money. As for compressors, you can buy a good nail gun compresssor for under a $100 that would have the moisture traps and all the fittings already on the compressor. Try to find one with an attached holding tank. A place like Harbor and Freight is a good place to look for a compressor. I use a Pasche double action. It's a good air brush and is relatively inexpensive compared to other brands. It's a good all round air brush.

I meant the flap above the rear vent for the radiator. If you do, use the phote etch and take your time in bending it as it is a "pain in the butt" to get it to the right shape. There were some talk at Quick Skins about doing the Budweiser car, but he had other projects ahead of that if he was ever going to do it.

I was thinking about doing the short tailed version of the Corvette...the one that ran with the V-8. Very cool so far. Are you going to put the louvers in the vents just in front of the back wheels? Also are you going to put the dive planes in the front?

That's the plan if I ever get the paint. Black paint is the one color I'm never out of, but wouldn't you know, I'm out of it! Thought I had a can, but it was completely empty. I'm hoping to have it done.

It will be interesting to see what you do with the kit. I built mine and had no issues with it. Tamiya's TS 17 Gloss Aluminum is a pretty good match for the decals. Can't wait for updates.

Would have had this up sooner but I had problems with the paint. I've never had this happen to me before, but when I applied the red over the white, the red started to crack the white paint. Both paints were Tamiya's TS spray paints. First time for everything. I stripped the paint, repainted and got the red on. Now I have one more color to do. I'm going to try some experiments and see if I can do some tricks with the black to kind of make it look like a carbon fiber effect. If it doesn't work, I'll be using carbon fiber decal. But I actually think the paint scheme of red and white on it now makes it look like the Swiss Spirit Team. (For people who watch Le Mans Racing) Here's some pictures of it.

Yes, I did. Everything fit perfectly. I used a little clear acrylic to hold the PE in place.

I have built the kit and I had no problems with it whatsoever. The only areas that you need to make sure of is not to have the back end misaligned at all. All the pieces fit very tight. Might have to do some sanding if you put on a lot of paint. I built mine in under 5 days from start to finish. I got it the Monday before the NNL West and had it ready to show on Saturday. Gregg took a lot of pictures of my model. The decals are good. They are opaque enough that the red doesn't show through the white. They can be brittle, though, since they are a little thick in the white part of the decal. Here are the pictures that Gregg took of my model. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/NNLWest07/index9.html

Tamiya's AS line of paint is exactly the same as the TS line of paint. Some are gloss, some flat, and some semi-gloss. It depends on which color you use. I've used their bare aluminum paint on some of my cars and I've been able to put a gloss coat over the top and have had no problem. And if I need to make them flat or semi-gloss, I use Testors flat or semi-gloss lacquer and airbrush it on.

I think it depends mainly on what you are building. If you're building a replica of the car, you want to get it as accurate as possible. But sometimes accuracy cuts into the appearance of the kit. It's like a double edge sword. You want to make it look good as well as trying to keep it accurate. There needs to be some midpoint between accuracy and appearance. I've seen people who have done kits with so much detail and accuracy that it kind of clutters the kit. It's neat that they did that and all but the overall appearance looks cluttered. It makes me lose focus on what the kit is. Just my opinion.

Jairus, The trigger for the Pasche should work on either side. There is no difference between one side than the other. Sometimes in the assembly of the trigger, the metal may have been bent. I used to run into this on brand new airbrushes and would replace the trigger or file the trigger. The other problem that I have seen with the assembly is trying to get the trigger into the air valve. The easiest thing to do is to remove the air valve. It should be the last thing to be put in on the air brush. This is how I assemble my Pasche: Cone into body Locking nut onto the cone with the tip Trigger into body Needle assembly into body Needle into the needle assembly, sliding into the cone Tighten everything down Put air valve into the body, making sure the trigger fits into the air valve It takes me about 30 seconds to assemble the airbrush and ready to shoot. Pasche has 3 needle and cones for the VL. #1 is for fine detail; #3 is a medium (most commonly used); #5 is large for spraying primer and such. As the needle and cone wear, they will turn into other size needles and cones so #1 would turn into a #2 as it starts to wear and so forth with the other numbers. As I replace my needles and cones, I keep the older ones since I may want to use them for different spray patterns. I hope this makes sense. Awesome comparison. Is this going to be in the coming magazine? I think this will help out quite a few people. Thanks for taking the time to show this.