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JHDrew

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Everything posted by JHDrew

  1. Nice work as always. I like clean builds. What's next?
  2. Well it looks like it's all been said, so I second all of it. Welcome aboard.
  3. It's great to know I will finally be able to get some sleep now. Go Red Wings!
  4. Still one of my all time favorites. Great job Curt! Nice and clean.
  5. It looks like Studio 27 has done something I've been hoping for... This was announced at the Shizuoka Hobby show for some time in late June. I'm guessing around $225.
  6. It won't be as bad as you think. Just have fun with it. Everything on this R10 TDI is a decal except the silver. Just be patient.
  7. Cleeeean!! I like it a lot.
  8. I used to own one too. Red and pearl white. Boy I miss that bike.
  9. Very nice work. That has to be the best engineered kit I have ever built. You can almost take the parts off the trees, throw them in the box, close the lid and shake it together. Well done. Here's mine... Keep up the good work.
  10. Bob, Where did you see the box art?
  11. I have it on good authority that these master air brushes are just as good as the Iwata brand. http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdepot/abdbrand.aspx I'm sorry I did find out about these sooner. If anyone else has used these, please let me know your opinion. Thanks
  12. Hello Hans, Thanks for the nice words. That really looks like it could work. A lot ot grinding and putty work but possibe. Post some progress shots if you do make the attempt. Is that a Renaissance body?
  13. Those are just the best engineered kits going. You are going to love the front fork set. I just got some Silk Cut purple from Hiro Boy. It looks like it lays down real nice. Keep us posted Dave.
  14. Here is the latest modification to the Testa Rosa. I wanted to make the underside look a little more presentable and also add the De Dion tube to the rear suspension. I couldn’t find any pictures of the De Dion layout but I did find a grainy picture of a Testa Rosa frame prior to it being restored. I decided that the addition of the missing frame tubing at the rear would really help. First you need to get rid of the cross member located before the differential by rounding off the area with sanding stick. Leave the attachment location points for the differential support in place. You will also need to remove the molded in angle braces located in the area near the fuel tank. Start with a new lower cross member then add the hoop over the drive shaft. I heated the plastic and bent it around a tube. I also relocated the rear cross member to make it look more correct but that isn’t necessary. After that was done I added the angular cross members between the hoop and the frame. It’s not completely accurate but makes the underside look so much better. It was also real easy so don’t think this is a lot of work. I also added bead rolls to the under side of the interior as well as rivets where required. The photos I have from the underside in the fuel tank area show a riveted seam on both sides of the tank so I replicated that as well. The underside will be shot in Alclad aluminum shades and the frame rails will be semi-gloss black. Thanks for looking.
  15. That's a nice clean build Jay. Congratulations on a fine job. Keep them coming.
  16. It came with a transmission so you coud do the PE linkage without having to scrape them off the kit part.
  17. Hi Ismael, It's a nice planet and they know me there... Anyway, it's not a bad kit to build. I chose to do the roadster version from the long gone Cheez-Cast body. I bought the Model Car Garage PE set. Model Car Garage PE set It has a lot of the flanges on the frame and various do-dads. I believe it's a must for this kit. I modified the spare tire area by removing the excess plastic around the tire. Yes you need to fill in the frame rails with our favorite putty. The thing I do remember is the strange steering linkage with no place to mount it. Historic Racing Miniatures has some correct A-arms and other goodies. Strada has them all...HRM at Strada VRM has 2 killer decal sets. V-R-M Decals Yes, that's the 1/12th engine below
  18. Thanks Fred, I just started updating the chassis while the red paint drys. Most of the revisions are in the rear. I'm adding the hoop over the drive shaft just before the differential. There are also a few support tubes associated with the hoop that will be added. I'm also adding a De Dion tube and independent shafts to the rear as this car had being different from the customer cars. I am taking pictures as I go and will post them all at once when the modifications are finished in that area. Its not that difficult or completely accurate but will make the chassis look a ton better. I do not have any pictures of the De Dion version so I'm basing it on what I do have of the 57 formula car. Stay tuned...
  19. Oh, hell yes! Very nice work my friend. I got to watch them race at Mid Ohio against the 962s. Brings back nice memories. So, what's next?
  20. OK, the more I looked at it the more I couldn't live with the thick kit windscreen I cut some masking tape in the windshield pattern and used that to cut out a brass shape. Then I made a pattern of the back side of the kit windshield by applying Sculpy II behind it and then baking it as directed. This will be the support for the brass pattern during vacu-forming. Plastic food wrap was used between the Sculpy and the kit windshield to make it easier to separate the two before baking. I trimmed the excess Sculpy and then bent the brass over the pattern. When I was happy with the shape I glued the brass to the Sculpy pattern and polished it. This will be used to vacu-form the clear plastic over. You can see the kit windshield behind the pattern. The pattern is also bigger than required to allow some trim and fiddle room later. Next was the vacu-forming. I only included this shot because my original Mattel Vacu-Form machine still makes me smile after 40 years. I trimmed up the vacu-formed windshield. What I didn't take pictures of was the process for trimming the flange off the original kit part. As you know, clear plastic is very brittle. Thankfully I did it without breaking it. I will shoot it with Alclad II and glue it in place before gluing the vacu-formed wind screen in place. It's all taped in place here and looks much better. Using the brass for a pattern will give you a smoother transparent part. I think it makes for a more realistic windscreen. This process only took a couple of hours so don't think it's impossible. Thanks for looking. More to come later
  21. Wow!!! Makes me want to start mine. Fine work as always.
  22. More progress Here is a picture of the actual car. Well, I moved on to the hood and thought it would be easier than the body. Wrong! Straight lines are difficult. Anyway, put a bridge of plastic at the rear of the hood as a pattern to reference when I add the epoxy putty between it and the front of the bulge. I put masking tape on the hood to keep the mess off of it and to give me a line to follow. After I roughed in the putty and it dried, the sanding and shaping was done. That was the hard part. I had to add more putty and filler as I went along but it finally worked out. The pegs in the hood are stretched plastic glued into the large holes that came cast into it. Here is the body in final primer to find the last of the imperfections. Notice that I also added the vents in front of the rear fenders and opened the fuel filler on the head rest. Here are a couple shots of it in white primer all ready for the red paint. That will have to wait until Wednesday as it's going to be rainy around here for a few days. Note the plastic inserts in the nose. Thanks for looking
  23. Yes, it was made in both sides including the 58TR version that I'm doing.
  24. Dave, I have to agree with Trevor. I got my hands on a Chaparral 1 body and it looked like I could make my own quicker than the time it would take to clean it up and make it correct. Good thoughts though on uses for this kit. I'm waiting for Renaissance to release all there decal options for this kit. They still have them as future items at their web site. Take care and always nice to hear from you,
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