robdebie

I'm building an MPC (not AMT as I wrote initially) Pinto Wagon, from the Blues Brothers movie, and want to tone down the glossy vinyl tires. Yesterday I airbrushed Revell enamel over them, but the paint is still sticky. I'm stripping the paint as I type these words. I want to try an Aeromaster water-based acrylic paint next, will that work? Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance! Rob

Could you also take some measurements of the hood? For those that want to convert the R685 hood of the AMT kit? Thanks in advance! Rob

Not having seen that video, could it be that the figures were printed from laser-sintered nylon? It's a white nylon powder that is 'welded' together using a laser. I've used that once, and it really soaks up CA, because it's porous. If you don't fill it, the paint will do the same thing, and the painting cycle becomes endless. Rob

I bought this set in 2020, and it contains everything except the air supply: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004O7HTYU/ref=pe_3044161_185740101_TE_item Rob

Lacquer thinner, if you don't have it. That's all you need. I tried for 30 years to obtain this quality, and never achieved it. It almost hurt when this method did! And with all enamel paint brands that I have. Here are two photos that made of my experiments. You do need to experiment a bit to find the nozzle settings. For the second, wet pass, you really need to open that nozzle, maybe 1.5 to 2 turns. That felt unnatural to me, coming from a Badger 150. But only then it works. Rob

First: I recommend watching this video, showing the 'Donn Yost' method, where all paint is applied in one session. I bought a Paasche H, tried it on all brands of enamel that I have, and it works really well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lCKZ_fo4eW0&ab_channel=AndyX Second: I learned from a book on industrial painting that you need to overcoat before a certain time, or overcoat after a certain time. In the time between, the paint could swell and ripple due to the solvents from the new layer of paint. Now I don't know these times for your paint, but it is good to know this. Or use the 'Donn Yost' method and do it all in one go. Rob

I do a few custom decal projects every year, here's more information about it: https://robdebie.home.xs4all.nl/models/customdecals.htm I'm afraid that the cost of a single set will exceed the Ebay purchase cost. Creating the artwork is laborious, and accounts for the majority of the costs. If you would order multiple sheets, and sell them, it could work financially. Rob

I have a 5500 but it broke after 10 sheets.. And I have an extensive page about Alps decals: https://robdebie.home.xs4all.nl/models/decals.htm Rob

There's also the The F1M Forums, running for 25-30 years I guess. Rob

Milo, the stripping medium heavily depends on the type of paint: enamel (alkyd), acrylic or lacquer. So check that spray can to see what paint you're dealing with. My best suggestion is to use an ultrasonic cleaner if you have one. I wrote an article about it: https://robdebie.home.xs4all.nl/models/ultrasonic.htm Other already mentioned that red plastic can cause problems. The root cause is that the red dye in the plastic is disolved in the solvents of the paint, and will turn your paint color reddish. Judging from your photos, this did not happen with your model, which makes me think the spray can contained water-based acrylic paint. Rob

I recently found these two Airfix kits, both very rare. They are extremely detailed for 1/32 models, very, very nice. I will probably pass them on to another modeler, or collector, since they don't really fit my interests. Rob

Thanks for posting this, interesting reading! Rob

I have one tip for cleaning the p/e parts without 'touching' them. Vinegar can be used to etch the surface a little, which should give much better paint adhesion. What works even better, and in just seconds. is hot vinegar. Simply microwave it until it boils, then dip the p/e in it for a few seconds. Rob

I've laughed about that line forever ? But I'm not the only one it seems ? Another that always makes me laugh is the second the two occupants of the Pinto slightly raise from their seats, when the car starts to drop. Rob

I forgot to ask: what do you make of the license plate? First I read '051272', but a production photo shows that 'OS....' or 'QS....' is more likely. Rob

Thanks for trying! I'll also leave it off if I cannot figure it out. Maybe someone with a Blu-Ray disc could see it better? Regarding the swastikas: model shows are full of Luftwaffe models with swastikas, so what would be the problem with one (four actually) on a Pinto? Are neo-nazis worse than original-nazis? ? No, I don't see a problem.. Rob

I'm thinking of building the Pinto Wagon from the movie 'Blues Brothers'. It has a sticker on the right side of the rear bumper, that I enlarged in the upper right corner. Anyone dare to take a guess??? Rob

I'm building that kit. I much prefer it over the Fujimi 917, since its shape is far more accurate. The whole front end (bulkhead forward) of the Fujimi kit is ~4 mm too wide. The Heller kit got that right, showing how small and narrow the cockpit was. My model is in the primer stage. However, the Heller kit is not so easy to build. It's got very fine detail parts, that are difficult to assemble, it's all very fiddly. Take the rear chassis frame, to which I added the white parts. With the engine installed, the engine cover won't close. I think the engine sits too high, because of a 'cross' in the bottom side of the chassis frame, that shouldn't be there. The engine itself is a bit simple, just what you can expect from an early seventies model. Rob

That's interesting, thanks! Now I have to choose between tires with sidewall detail that is generally not visible in photos, or to go for tires without sidewall detail that may looked a bit naked.. Choices, choices... Rob

I was planning to get the AMT Parts Pack PP028 that contains the same tires, of at least 11.00-22 tires. The wheels from the White Freightliner don't suit the Duel truck, so that's no reason to build the truck instead of the parts pack. But maybe I'm overlooking something? Rob

Why the White Freightliner? Does it have special tires? Or is it the kit you need the wheels for? Rob

Yeah, it almost looks too easy. But still you have to analyse photos, draw it in 3D, and print it, or have it printed in my case. The parts could be scratchbuilt fairly easy too, one could make the rubber gasket with (for example) two diameters of lead wire . Rob

Here's the first version of the windshield correction piece. The radius of the pre-1960 windshield corners are much larger, so I decided to start with an insert made to fit the kit windows, and added the rubber gasket on top of that piece. On the top side I left 0.5 mm to create a bit of space to the drip rail. On the back side I made a recess for the glass. This should work I think! Comments are welcome though. Over to the next problem area.. Rob

Håkan, thanks for reminding me of that. I made a photo compilation that shows these details clearly. The solution might be simple: design 3D printed wide rubber windshield gaskets, slightly lower, to be glued inside the kit's windows. And a piece of steel wire to wrap that drip rail all around the cabin. Rob

Alan, good point! I have the grand total of one European truck model, and will check the tire size later. The AMT PP028 Parts Pack tires that I now plan to use are not that much bigger than the kit tires. But I first have to get those, and have the wheel(s) printed. I expect some to make some changes ? Rob