robdebie

Interesting! You're the first to point out the differences in AndyX's video and Donn Yost. For the moment I'll continue with the 'Andy X' method, it works really well for me, and it is simple and quick. Rob

There's a recent thread on this. My contribution was that I read a paint technology book that said that the typical red dyes in plastic are easily dissolved by paint thinners. and then move to the paint surface. I would use a water-based acrylic as primer, and then be very careful with the next layer(s) that contain solvents. Rob

I remember reading in a book on industrial paint that the red dyes for plastic are notorious for being able to dissolve in paint solvents, and thus moving into the paint itself. To me it sounds like different paint solvents could be the answer. Like using a waterbased acrylic paint instead of (say) an enamel with added white spirit. But that's just a hypothetical example. Rob

You probably can, but I was responding to the 'Hopefully, the Paasche H will fill in and smooth everything out' part - that sounded like a bad idea. But you can try! ? Rob

That part sounds like a recipe for disappointment. Get your parts smooth by other means, before you start applying paint. Or use a fresh model. Rob

Thanks! It seems I'm doing it the right way ? Rob

Very interesting! The H3 already shocked me with its paint flow, so I was almost afraid to try the H5 needle ? But if your experience is so good, I must give it a try! Rob

I've been working with my new Paasche H for just a few weeks, but I would not hesitate to use it for something large. In fact it would be my clear first choice from a total of four air brushes (Badger 200 and 150, Iwata HP-CS and Paasche H). But maybe you're saying you would use the H5 needle? It came with the set I bought, but I haven't tried it - I'm still getting used to working with the H3 needle. One thing I don't like so much is that the turning part of the needle set has no markings to show how much you opened it. As an interim solution I painted two stripes on it. For the Donn Yost method, I use -0.8 turns while applying a color coats, and then ~1.5 turns for the wet gloss coats. Rob

If you can regulate it in the 15-30 psi range, it should be suitable I guess. You may need an adapter to connect the airbrush hose. My Paasche H set came with a hose that has a fairly large connector, roughly half an inch. I looked for a designation but could not find one. Rob

Solvents could attack the plastic, be careful there, and do a test first. I've had great success using NaOH aka lye aka caustic soda in combination with an ultrasonic cleaner. But it only works for enamel paints. See here for the full story: https://robdebie.home.xs4all.nl/models/ultrasonic.htm Here's a truck cab that I stripped recently, almost spotless without any effort: Rob

If painting bodies is your main goal, check this thread about the Donn Yost method: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/164406-just-discovered-the-donn-yost-paint-method-one-question/ The Paasche H is a key ingredient is you ask me. It has a *rough* instead of a *fine* paint atomisation, and that's what you need for that particular purpose. I think you can buy a Paasche H set for ~50$ in the USA, I paid 60 euros in the Netherlands. I don't think you'll find a decent compressor for the remaining money though. One model that seems to be sold everywhere and under many brand names is the 'AS18' type. I think it's a Chinese clone of a Badger original. I've worked with it, and it's reasonable. The constant on and off switching is pretty annoying, I'm used to a silent Sil-Air 20 with a buffer tank. I think you can find the AS18 for ~70$. The combination would give you a reasonable start. Rob

The curing inhibition only applies to addition cure (platinum) silicone rubber. The list of cure inhibition materials is quite long. The following materials are listed by manufacturers: - condensation type silicone rubber (especially its tin-soap catalyst) - unsaturated hydrocarbon solvents - sulphur (in vulcanized natural and synthetic rubbers) - phosper - epoxies containing strong amine catalysts - isocyanates of urethane resins - tape adhesives - metallo-organic salt-containing compounds (especially tin salts and heavy metals) - plasticizers in plastics (especially vinyl) - some epoxy and polyester resins - nitrogen containing materials - some modelling clays - solder flux - wood - leather - chlorinated products (such as neoprene rubber) But still I very much prefer this type over condensation cure (tin salt) silicone, even though the latter is cheaper. I just don't like the shrinkage of condensation type. The amazing thing is (quoting from manufacturer, Shin-Etsu I think) is that the shrinkage never stops! Rob

Another suggestion: watch a few Robert Tolone videos on resin casting. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCPA1NCFqYebL6RBW5-bnOrg/videos?view=0&sort=dd He's always trying challenging objects to cast. Rob

One comment on the need for a release agent with two part molds. In the past, all silicone rubber types that I used would stick like crazy when poured on a cured piece (i.e. first mold half). So you would need a release agent. But with the 10 Shore-A type that I'm currently using, this is no longer the case. With a little effort I can peel the second pour from the first. Therefore: check first for the adhesion, it could save you some work. Rob

For the record, I used Humbrol and Revell enamels. I get the impression the method works with whatever enamel paint. Your question about the second color application wrinkling the first color due to the lacquer thinner, that's a good one! I hope to find out soon. Rob

What you describe comes close to the method, but its not 100% the same. I would suggest watching the video linked in the first post, if you want to see it. Rob

So true! Misting the paint is NOT the way to a gloss coat. I learned that through experiments years ago. But with a heavy coat you get in the danger zone of runs. It seems that the lacquer thinner avoids that. Rob

Just to show where I am, this is the third experiment, where I lowered the pressure a bit, and finally achieved zero orange peel and a very high gloss. Rob

Ah, yes, I'm new to this, and at least the technique has a name ? I'm gathering more plastic for more experiments. Two tones here I come. Rob

Thanks for the response! Doing the polishing with the masking still in place is a smart idea, love it! But what kind of masking are you using? If I would use Tamiya tape (as an example) I would expect it to be soaked in paint, and becoming very difficult to remove when the paint is fully cured. I would expect a recommendation to remove it quite soon after painting, while the paint is still relatively soft. With a vinyl mask, things would be different, since that material would not absorb the paint. But I don't have vinyl masking tape. I'm quite willing to experiment, so please let me (us) know, and I will report back. Rob

A couple of days ago I watched Paasche H Airbrush - The Scale Model workhorse by Andy X, and learned about the Donn Yost paint method. Since then I've been doing experiments to see if it would work for me, and the answer is a big yes. I'm very pleased with the results so far, they are by far the smoothest paint jobs that I have ever painted. My question is whether you can only paint single-color models like this, or is there a way to do multi-color models too? I can't see how to mask a model (or rather how to remove the masking) when you putting on a fat paint coat like this. Rob

I explained my methods of resin casting in this thread on the ARC forum, maybe it's of use to you: http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/316680-learning-to-cast-resin/ Rob

I have built a Revell top fuel dragster, and the section aft of the cockpit was badly twisted after assembly. I was able to solve it by cutting the tubes and added a small shim before regluing. It's not easy to explain, but I considered each frame side as a beam. If the beam needed to be bent down to remove the twist, I would cut the upper tube with a JLZ razor blade saw, and insert a suitable shim. Alternatively, for a small correction, you could cut the lower tube, and see whether the material removed by the cut was sufficient. Using this method I straightened my frame perfectly. Rob

If you cannot find a sheet from the regular aftermarket decal makers (S27, Shunko, etc) you can order a custom printed sheet at SpotModel in Spain: https://www.spotmodel.com/product_info.php?products_id=54181 Rob

The brand is 'Fein Design Modell', a German brand. The T70 looked very nice indeed! Rob