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tedd60

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Everything posted by tedd60

  1. The rear springs were much to long so they had to go. The tough part was Corgi joined the differential with the springs with huge squares of plastic and then drilled holes to screw the assemblies onto the chassis. I had to glue in some scraps, cut the rear end from the springs and carve away everything not wanted. Good thing I got my Whittlin' Chip back when I was a Cub Scout. I cut up a bit of aluminum to make springs the correct length. I needed the plastic to begin the roll cage. The front and rear hoop were the only things needed to be bent, all the rest is straight runs. I had to cut away some of the body in the area of the front hoop ... this is the first I've cut the zinc (or whatever) die casts are made out of. I was able to do it quite easily on a scroll saw with a metal cutting blade.
  2. The wood is gorgeous, much better than some of the efforts using real wood I've seen. If these decals can be covered with clear and sanded & polished correctly, I would expect to see some spectacular burl wood dashboards in Jags and Benz's ... and Woodies ?!?! As we used to say up in NJ .. FAGEDABOUTDIT! Great Job!
  3. That is one rusty old truck. Lookin' Good!
  4. I am going to begin learning about casting. If you don't mind a question ... What makes Smooth On better than Alumilite, other than being less expensive? Thanks, T
  5. Thank you. Over the past couple years a lot of 5 tons got surplussed and are very popular among collectors. They are a bit big for daily use, but a number of guys bob them as well.
  6. I'm building a model of a racing car that was left in gray primer with flat black on the chassis and satin black on the interior. l would like to keep that paint scheme using same rattle can paints, BUT rattle can primer and flats are very soft and mark up with the slightest touch. My question is ... should I apply clear (flats and satin s where appropriate) to protect the very soft rattle can paint? Should I do this with acrylic paints or should I go back to Home Depot and buy rattle can clear finishes? Thanks T
  7. Where's the Icelert? I had a 2000 TC version of the same car. LOVED it. Mine was black with black leather interior. Can't quite tell if yours is black or dark blue.
  8. My Daily Driver, Henry. Henry is a 1968 American General M35a2 2 1/2 ton truck (Deuce and a half) that I bobbed by cutting off the last 4 feet of the chassis and removed one rear axle and 6 tires. His bed is from a M-105 Trailer. Now he is about the same length as a twin-cab F-350. I did the build in about 4 days in my back yard. He's been my daily driver for about 7 years (about 20,000 miles) now, mostly because he is a MULTI-FUEL kind of vehicle ... I run him on old motor oil and other discarded (and de-watered, and filtered and thinned) petroleum products, and get between 12 to 15 mpg. I have put pump diesel fuel in him only on the rarest of occasions. Henry went into the service about 2 years before I did, but I got rank on him. I named him Henry after a guy in a tune by the same name by New Riders of the Purple Sage and regard him as my old army mule buddy. We hum together as we go down the road. Well ... I hum, Henry hums ... and whistles, and bangs, and thumps and roars, and squeeks and ... well, you get the picture. I find that Henry is not much different from my beloved MGB's. He's all metal, heavy, slow and leaks oil from just about everywhere. Removing his soft top (you did notice that he is a roadster!) is just slightly a bigger pita then removing the MGB's. Speaking of pictures: Before ... ... and after:
  9. I'm probably gonna have to buy more. I'm building a vacuum form. I'm blaming Impalow and his Art Deco A model Ford. It's ALL his fault.
  10. FAR OUT!!! THEPLASTICSHERETHEPLASTICSHERETHEPLASTICSHERETHEPLASTICSHERETHEPLASTICSHERE!!!!! Model Parts and supply http://stores.ebay.com/Model-Parts-and-Supply modelparts_supply@sbcglobal.net Good prices VERY fast turn around.
  11. OMG .... sparkplugs. I had to carve my 1/18 spark plugs out of an old allen wrench because I didn't have the styrene. Very cool project. I'm thinking of doing something similar to VW 1200 cc and 1600cc engines because the ones in the available die casts are HORRIBLE and I think I may have need for them.
  12. If there are any SIM racers aboard, the Mount Panorama Circuit is simply called Bathurst on the 'net and there is a copy of the circuit for Assetto Corsa. It's an interesting track with a little of everything. I'm going to down load it and give it a go, probably in a Mazda MX5 Cup Car this afternoon: http://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/bathurst.8677/
  13. You must know by now that I love road racing in small, production based cars. I just found that there is a series in Australia called Improved Production. Apparently there are two main classes, under 2 Litre and over 2 Litre. This is very similar to the IMSA RS Series (abbreviation for Radial Sedan) began in 1971 as the Goodrich Radial Challenge, aka the IMSA Baby Grands which was FANTASTIC racing back in the day. Quote from Grass Roots Motorsports: "The idea was to attract racers who did not have the budgets that was required in the GT category as well as an emphasis on compact sedans such as the AMC Gremlin and the Opel Manta." Down in Australia, I see they are still racing ancient Datsun (they weren't Nissan yet!) 1200 s, Honda Civics and 70's vintage Toyota Celica ST's!!! In any event, attached are a couple of vids I found last night, both from the 2017 Bathurst 12 Hour, an endurance race for GT and production cars held at the Mount Panorama Circuit, in Bathurst, Australia. GREAT racing. The first vid shows Race 2 of the 2017 event. Watch for some GREAT passing by a young fellow in a red Civic. He runs the same play against anyone who will pass him ... in the same place over and over again: And then I found a vid that allows viewing he same passes from INSIDE that red Civic!!!: There seems to be a lot of this stuff on Youtube. Just search Youtubve for Improved Production. DEFINATELY worth a look if you love racing. Good Stuff! T
  14. If you click his screen name and go to his home page. Then click on "See Their Activity". Mr. Can-Am has about 29 pages of posts. His roll-off build might be there as well. These are what I found of his classics. Just beautiful work ... all of it: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/26308-1934-mercedes-benz-500k-ssr-body-by-sindelfelden/
  15. These guys have quite a lot and the prices aren't too bad: http://www.diecastmodelswholesale.com/
  16. Hey Steve ... I was wondering what that screen name was about. The TR4 was a great car, in many ways it was an MGB built properly. Good engine and a real chassis, and it lead to another GREAT road racer, the TR6. Bob Tullius and the Group 44 team sure made them go pretty quick. If I remember correctly, Paul Newman got his start in a TR6.
  17. They were fairly simple, as long as you could tune the carbs and work on the electrics. Safe Too! The Siamese-ed intake and exhaust ports on the head made sure that you wouldn't get much more than 150 hp out of the engine and the lack of a chassis made certain that you couldn't drive it all that fast anyoldways. I've owned MGB's since 1976 and I'm sure I'll always have one in the driveway (or apart and in the garage) forever. Most people don't know an MGB took a class win at Lemans, beating the new Porsche 911 in 1964. Might be worth modeling. I'd have to scratch up a factory hardtop ...
  18. Thanks for the kind words. I'm not sure if taking pictures is a good idea. Every time I look as the pictures, I find something else that isn't quite correct. I'm having a real tough time coming up with tires for this thing. I need something 32mm (1.26 in.) outer diameter, 22mm (.886 in.) inner diameter and about 13mm (.50) wide. I used Goodyear Blue Streak slicks for dry tires and a shaved set of Goodrich T/A radials for the wet. If I can't find anything, I'm thinking of slicing up the the Goodyear Eagles seen in the first couple pictures of this thread., but in truth, they are way too tall and wide. Every time I go looking, I come across all the 1/24 and 1/25 goodies you guys have. Sometime I think I chose the wrong scale.
  19. How about exotic swim ware for the models who will be hanging around your cars? The stuff on the right hand pinkie and middle finger looks like things could get REAL exotic.`
  20. Corgi's front cross member and lower control arms need a bit of work. The companies that sell model cars sometimes cast lower control arms as a solid piece and ignore the empty spaces that should be there. They also do the same to rear spring shackles. Edit ... I've built and re-built this assembly a number of times, I think I got it where it needs to be for this model. I scratch built Armstrong Lever action shocks with upper control arms, a steering rack and it's mounts. I drilled through the steering knuckle, fitted it with a brass tube and drilled the assembly to accept a steel king pin. The lower and stiffer front springs on the 1:1 car were yellow, but I didn't have any flat ... so I painted them flat white. I need to fabricate brake rotors, calipers and hoses, but have to wait until I see what I come up with for wheels and tires. The sway bar will be fitted after a little touch up and I install the assembly on the chassis.
  21. I read with some disappointment that there is some bias against die-cast builders and models: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/51882-the-anyone-can-polish-a-diecast-story-part-ii/ I can't imagine for the life of me why that should be. As much as I like 1:18 scale, I have to admit that the models are not very good and in many respects much worse than the stuff I used to see when I built 1/25. Also, the aftermarket and resin casters don't offer much in this scale, so trying to get one of these cars even close to reasonable takes a LOT more work than other scales. Think of the time spent just carving out and filling in all the screw holes and mounting posts these things have. MGB's are built on a uni-body, they don't really have a "chassis" as such, but let's call this part the "chassis" anyoldways. The chassis on this Corgi MGB was pretty bad, especially the area around the rear clip. Just so I can install the tube shocks, rear swaybar and panhard rod that was on my racer.I ended up carving away lot more than I planned, Here's the chassis after the work and one coat of paint. Just a little more prettying up to do. I've always wanted an adjustable miter-box for model building. Many years ago I can across this angle clamp at a yard sale. I'm not exactly sure what it was for, but with a little cutting and shaping, drilling and tapping, I've turned it into a great adjustable miter box.
  22. I know my first didn't look any where near that good.
  23. Great job, WONDERFUL color. It's easy to imagine this car being driven by a hot Blonde on a sunny California day. I really like the line around the front doors, fender skirts, and trunk lid. Nice and crisp. I guess you used a scribe-ing tool and a ultra fine marker pen? Also, what's she like under the hood? T
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