ismaelg

Nice job! I know I am late to the party but I am about to start this project as well. Thanks, Ismael

Hello, Long road ahead but we are now officially painting! Thanks, Ismael

Hello, Due to the kit's design, the round ends of the leaf springs are slightly big. There is nothing really to be done here. Or is it? So this is the ONLY artistic license I am taking in this project: I added some nuts and bolts and I think it looks better now. Of course the need to be painted body color as well. I just added them after first coat of paint. A little weathering should take them home. Thanks, Ismael

Hello, Time for a colorful update! I received my first bottle to complete the formula as per Michael's. More paint is on its way. I mixed a little test batch very carefully. As I have always suspected, the Wasp color is close to the 2000's Corvette Millennium Yellow. Picture on tropical sunlight. They are close enough that I think a "Plan B disaster recovery plan if needed" could be use Millennium yellow for the chassis parts that are body color and most likely nobody would notice the difference. But at this time, I tested my mixed formula on these 2 parts. Unfortunately, I need to be out of town the weekend. But as soon as I get back we are painting! Thanks, Ismael

Yes, I was trying to analyze it but the picture size doesn't help much. I was trying to see if there was any sign of tread on that tire. The right one is definitely not the original one. Those are definitely not white so I think they may most likely not be the original ones. Notice the Marmon looks like a farm tractor or truck next to the Miller.

Thank you John! I have never seen that second picture before! That looks like a Miller 91 FWD! Any additional info on this picture? Seems it was taken in 1926. That's the Marmon Wasp as it appeared in that video with Ray Harroun. You can clearly see in this picture the car already has only 2 friction shocks up front, instead of four during the race. The font on the side "32" is different to the one during race and probably the one kept up to today. The radiator number seems to be a faded but still original from the race. Notice the pointed "3" instead of a block font. Of course the added "MARMON WASP" on the hood and the "WINNER OF THE 1911 500 MILE RACE" on the back. Thanks! Ismael

Like John mention, the color has always been a controversy. The car was restored in the 1950s with Ray Harroun himself involved. He was not just a driver. He was a Marmon engineer. As a fellow engineer, I have no motive or reason to question the current color, so that's the one I am aiming for. The color formula is based on an unfaded paint where a leather belt has kept it preserved. I am going for the race configuration rather than the actual configuration of the car. For example, the car raced with 4 friction shocks in the front axle, but the car currently have only two. The tail fin supports are different. Most notably, the race numbers were a different font and size. Fortunately, the decals are for the race version. Of course the tires will be white-ish. If I ever get my hands on another, I'd like to do the current museum trim. That would be fun. Even a third version is possible: There is a video of Ray Harroun in the 1940's sitting on the car. It is faded and has additional lettering indicating it was the winner of the inaugural 500. Thanks, Ismael

Hello, No pics today but an update on the body paint. The unique color of this car is not something readily available. There is no such thing as "PPG 1911 Marmon Wasp yellow" color formula. The closest match (and I am BIG sucker for the utmost color accuracy) is a special mix of 2 colors as per Michael's research. Problem is I had a hard time finding them. Out of stock in all my usual go to places. I finally tracked down an ebay seller that had both and ordered them. But they only had 1 of each. Been 10ml (1/3 oz) and my painting style, that will probably not be enough for this as not only the body but the massive wheels, suspension and drivetrain are mostly body color. I spent days tracking online retailers. Finally found a retailer that had one of them but sold out on the other, then another retailer that had the second one but out of stock on the first one. Long story short, there are 3 packages in transit (California, Ohio, New York) with what I hope will allow me to paint this important project. By the way, I paid more in shipping than on the paint itself. So I don't think this will see any color for about 2 weeks. Stay tuned. Thanks, Ismael

Hello, The steering linkage rod was not perfectly round. It could have been a challenge during curing. It can probably be sanded back to shape. But what fun would that be? Here is a story in 4 pics. A final adjustment/alignment before gluing together will take it home. Plus it is telescopic/adjustable length! Thanks, Ismael

First of all, Thank you John for pointing me to this thread. This thread should be in the National Archives or something. WHAT AN IMPRESSIVE WORK! I am currently working on the 1/25 model of this car and I wish I had seen this thread before. I will be using this as a reference in many ways. To say I am a big fan of this car is an understatement. I absolutely love it since I saw it personally for the first time in 1993. EG, I really wish you the very best recovery. Admirable work. I'll go back over and over. Thank you both EG and John and those who have contributed. I wish I could contribute more than my admiration and enthusiasm. Thanks, Ismael

Hello, Most likely another victim of the mail's rough ride, I couldn't find the engine support cross member. Then I found the two ends of it. The missing section was not found. Time to fix it. Sanded smooth the end pieces. Using styrene square U channel and appropriate sized quarter round stock, I made the missing part measuring twice and cutting once. Or was it the other way around? TADA! A perfect fit! Primer and maybe a smudge of filler will take it home. Thanks, Ismael

Hello, Not much progress these days as I've been very busy. Radiator moving along. Basically ready for paint. The wheels/tires required a bit more work than I originally anticipated but moving along. Painting will be a challenge but we'll get there when we get there. Thanks, Ismael

Hello, Small update, literally and figuratively. The radiator also suffered a bit on mail ride. Spent a couple hours combing thru craft beads to find the closest one in size. I was hoping for finding 2 to make them both but I can live with only one. Also spent some time to get the best fitting tubing or rod. Getting there but on the long side. That's far better than too short. After some trimming, we are getting there. Moving in the right direction. Thanks, Ismael

Hello, It is done! Ohh wait! I still need to finish the rest of the car! Will you believe me if I tell you I'm very happy? 🙂 Thanks, Ismael

Hello, Time for an update. I've been really busy at work so progress has been slow in the last few days. This is a preserved race car. Not a show car. A little weathering goes a long way. What the...? Is that a spider? a deep sea creature? single barrel carburetor Brass and copper were widely used in this. Notice the copper line from the front of the engine running behind the carb to the back. I think it could be part of the manual oil pressurization system. About the plug wires looking too shiny, don't worry, there is a plan for that. I may need to get another one for the car and leave this one out on a stand or something. 🙂 Next: finish the plug wires of course and the cooling system Really having fun with this. Thanks, Ismael

Hello, Since bodywork is pretty much done, I'll let it rest for now before further inspection and continuation. In the meantime, I'll jump to one of my favorite parts: the engine. The Marmon Wasp was powered by a 447 cubic inch T head inline 6 that develops about 110 horsepower. Keep in mind, this was 1911 and the car was already one or two years old. For the unique color of the heads, I mixed my own using gray, some green and white. I kept adjusting until satisfied so I can't really tell ratios. I did what I hope is plenty for this, any mishap and save some for the future as reference. Engine parts were sprayed aluminum before painting. Engine block was painted gunmetal. Heads were slightly gloss coated after paint for a hint of metallic-like shine. Keep in mind, 1911. 3D printing allows for some intricate detail not easily possible previously with resin or styrene. However, been very delicate detail, the rough ride on the mail can take its toll. Fortunately, Michael sends the parts in several zip lock bags so nothing gets lost. You can see I already re-glued the broken spark plug in place. Six intake and six exhaust valves. Gunmetal for the block Just a mockup. Two cylinders pretty much done. Don't worry about the valves not touching the block. That will be eventually adjusted. Really enjoying this. Thanks, Ismael

Hello, I measured against some reference pics and it seems to be right. But I'm just too stupid and anal retentive on these kind of things. 🤣 I am building the car as raced, not exactly as currently restored. Tires, shocks, tailfin bracing and other minute differences.

Hello, Continuing with this project, I noticed I was missing the tail fin. I reached out to Michael who immediately offered to send a replacement. But been an easy part to scratchbuild, we discussed the dimensions and I took a crack at making my own. More fun and faster. Here is version 1: Not bad, but slightly off. Also, the material I used seems too thick. Version 2: After reviewing the dimensions with Michael, I think I got it almost there. This time with better thickness proportions. Just tidy it up and we should be good to go. As of now: It looks good, but I'm debating whether it is too tall or not. This is one of those cases where the caliper says I'm correct but my eyes say "mehhh... are you sure?" If needed, trimming the bottom to make it slightly lower will be very easy. What do you think? Thanks, Ismael

Hello again! After taking the body as far as it would go, a little putty will take it to the finish line. Very long road ahead but I like where this is going. Thanks, Ismael

Hello, May not look like much but there are long hours of work here including several coats of primer sanded down to almost nothing. Far from over but going in the right direction. Noticed the hood also had a hairline crack so I started working on it. And this is how it looks now in process. Again, far from over but moving along. *EDIT* Keep in mind these images are larger than actual size. This is just my own way of inspection. Thanks, Ismael

Hello, First primer test. Looking good and heading in the right direction. Thanks, Ismael

Thanks! It does have an engine. Which I haven't touch yet. But I will... eventually 🙂

Hello, Started preparing the body for eventual primer. Started wet sanding carefully with 1500 grit. Like I mentioned earlier, the 3D resin behaves differently. This little lip on the cockpit quickly started to disappear with the sanding. I carefully re-scribed it and I am checking on it constantly. At this level of magnification (bigger than actual size) you can still see the 3D lines. Carefully working those before even thinking about primer. Call me weird but I'm really enjoying this. 🙂 Thanks, Ismael

Hello, Ray Harroun won the very first Indy 500 in 1911 piloting this car. As early as 1910, Marmon engineers knew they needed to reduce air resistance. Ray was a savvy racer for its time and understood you need to take care of your tires. In his experience, he knew if he kept the car at around 85 miles per hour, lower than the top speed it could achieve, the tires would last much longer. His strategy had worked previously in other smaller races. Another major innovation, is that this is credited to be the very first time a rearview mirror was used in an automotive application. The idea was to check for traffic without the need for a riding mechanic. I can spend days talking about this car. Let's just say I love it, especially after seeing it in person. Just the shear history it carries is mind blowing. After a few years of hunting, I was finally able to get a kit I consider a holy grail for me: The Indycals 1/25 Marmon Wasp! When this kit was first released a few years ago, it was a very limited run. I think it was only like 20 copies or so. More have been made but it is still a very limited availability. It is not easy to produce these. It seems the kit has changed slightly since it was introduced. For example, the original instructions show separate wheels and tires, while my copy has them molded together. While that may be a challenge for painting, it is definitely easier to manufacture and is one less area to have possible fit problems. So I am good with that. Some other minor changes were noted but nothing major. The kit is 3D printed. This is not for the faint of heart or the beginner. You need to step up your game and face it. Don't complaint it is hard. 3D printed resin is slightly different to traditional resin and to plastic. It is slightly softer than classic resin and care must be taken when working it. Also, the finish of 3D printed parts usually needs some additional work as printing lines are pretty much inevitable. This will be a slow project but one to be built not only with my hands, but with all my heart. Here we go: Here is a quick mockup of the major parts: Despite the excellent packaging, a trip in the mail is always a rough ride. Upon opening and inspecting it, I noticed the chassis had a broken piece and the body had a crack. Nothing a drop of superglue couldn't fix. Fixing these was the official start of the project. Stay tuned for more! Thanks, Ismael

Hi Ken! Thank you my friend! Well, that 427 is still very close in the family.