MikeMc

Back in the old days I used to scratchbuild slots.....Lotsa brass tube, rod and sheet. Throw in some piano wire and silver (or Tix) solder, wind a new motor and throw on any old body now that is scratchbuilding!!!! Kit bashing needs at least 2 kits....... Throwing up will usually only take 1 lousy kit

I would normally say SWEET.......but on this one I think SLICK works better

I think it was all Theresa ......not George....TIME WILL TELL!!!!!!!!!!!

Read?????? I just look at the pix!!.....what issue???

Well Theresa is a Joy to see.....and I don't want to see George!!!!

They do but only in coarse grits...I'm looking for 1000 , 1200 , or 1500 grit

I mix brass and stainless steel metalizers mixed mix drop to drop till you get what you want.

Follow this......... http://www.hotrod.com/featuredvehicles/113...ster/index.html

GO MIKE GO!!!!!!!!!!!

My 1:1 custom painter just got this last week...Totally stock but for the Wheels and front springs...rear is stock springs with blocks Paint is mile deep black...straight as an arrow...Does anyone make this as a kit???

Listen to Bob. After 25 yrs in the camera repair business all I would add to Bobs advice is : Set your price limit, look at the BATTERY(S) If its AA batteries you want to get a camera that uses 4 AA and ALWAYS buy lithium batteries for any digital camera...your flash eats batteries. But the # 1 tip I will give you is :If it feels comfortable in your hands,and you can see thru it...BUY IT!! (PS I also have the Canon S5 and it is that good!!!)

These were made from solder, some K&S tube covered in shrink tubing...I could of used some BMF around the tubes and collector for a chrome look by using a toothpick and gently pushing the foil around the "pipes" you can make the "bulge"

all the collector is ..is a tube....Are you trying to make the"bulges" where the tubes meet at the collector?

I am watching and enjoying the start of this one!!and I'm staying tuned

They do!!!!! $115.00 http://www.alsacorp.com/products/killercan...illerchrome.htm

Simply put The black is the HOT wire and you split it with the dimmer switch and it will regulate the voltage out many dimmers just have 2 unmarked wires. White is neutral and bare or green is ground. the white(chrome screw) and green wires go from the cord to the "outlet" then split the black wire and run it to the "outlet"(gold screw) you need to use wire nuts and tape on the black wires. Follow OSHA safety rules at all times and any advice given by me may not work!!!

cut all you want...and let more dirt in!! What I did was to take a elec box and a dimmer switch, wire it into a receptacle and plugged my dehydrator in .I dropped my thermometer in and dialed down the voltage for 105 degrees. Once found I marked the position with a sharpie so I can always set it. If you know electricity this is a simple project...If you don't find someone that does...

Duplacolor and Tamiya make great whites This T Bolt was duplacolored and cleared with the TS13.....

Sorry Terry...but that is WRONG INFO!!! Walmart " HOK" is not the same as REAL HOK..or thru Black Gold. That line of colors is not made any more...and it is NOT LACQUER!!! I would suggest Tamiya Acrylic clear (not TS13) or future..Give a shout out to Marcus..Helipilot16...He can tell ya all the poop!!

OHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH WOOOOOOOOOOOOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I think that is the "finished" shot..... Now come to think of it I don't think Gregg has EVER completed a kit...... C'MON..... who has seen one ????????

Color balance!!!!!!Only one of those shots lets that lower POP!!! With that orange cast you need sunlight!! Nicely Foosed!!

Photobucket.....and then before read along with Clay: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12248 Hope you like the site, Glad ya made it!

KILLER!!!!!!! ps switch one tires direction!!

Sorta like the "flat" Pearl paint jobs out there....like Tim Boyd did on the '55 cameo roadster... Its still suede...but with some personality!!!