MikeMc

100%........Thanks Skip!

It will be solid....Most of Larrys goodies are well cast, then painted...

Pat..your new here...try to have some fun.....

He was hatched in 53.....

Oh Antonio.....that one is gonna turn heads!!

Many folks do Doc. I noticed he was using a Calumet head with a modeling light. One of the easiest ways for a "pro" strobe on a student budget...and we all saw it work. Ed...Its not for the ability...some people have this notion that taking pictures is tough..and no matter what box the use..they shoot poop. Pictures are what you see and learn to look for, now with a digital camera people hit delete and say they don't have any pictures.

I use 1 light head, aimed into a silver umbrella with white and silver reflector cards.... I will also use a camera mounted flash for fill.

Just like the bridge I have for sale.. ..Saw it again today with Courtney.....It has been cut a "bit" :P

Wow !! just saw that you had trouble with the grill . After looking at this picture I might suggest you nailed it .

He must be a Photography Teacher....Equiptment choice is student level....good bang for the begining photographer, I have to say he sure uses a lot more mirrors than needed, BUT I love how he shows where the light is going, and knows his light well...EXCELLENT tool Doc!!

Could be on a trip or vacation....I suspect he did not charge you for what he didn't ship ?

Well silly me...I've done this for years....Please explain why lacquer and acrylic clears won't work over urethane base coats....HOK reccomends SG100 over their colors as an intercoat.

I use graduated epoxy cups from great plains... I get them thru Tower for 3.00 for 50...they are lacquer proof

True...but when painting models..no cat / hardener is needed, as long as you clear, with an lacquer, acryllic , or even enamel...

jpegs

Larry seems to be a good guy..I placed an order in fall...His storage was flooded, and he was having a heck of a time finding some stuff. He did ship everything ordered and even a couple of extras for the wait.

Tonio....was gonna pm you...but you saw this...I will PM Jason Mc. hes here in Naples...I work with one of his buddies...

And the REAL news is... your air is still BAD!!!...Rom, I beg to differ with ya, but the irresponsible people in the 50s, 60s, and 70s,out in sunny CA did do the air in themselves, by no rules there...or anywhere really. And as you know all the pollution spewing into the air out there, trapped by the mountains gets held in. BUT if you look at the labels in the other 49, you might notice you need a "special # if in CA.".......Tell me how tamiya relabeling their paints and thinners made anyones air better...as they say on TV......C'MON MAN !!!!!

SG100 has no UV protection...they used to have the same clear with the uv protection, but thats gone now....I use the SG100 as an intercoat.

Doug....all paints thru an A/B should be a buildup of thin mist coats....same with the clears. Most mfgrs in the MSDS or instruction sheets give a recoat time....HOK and duplacolor lacquers are 15 to 20 min between coats...Tamiya TS 13 clear must go on Tamiya lacquers when shooting color, or wait for a month to prevent cracking of the clear, if your not sure about any paint issues, get a box of plastic spoons and test your method and color, and clear....before you do the body

Thanks Art for the REAL FACTS!! yes all dust can be harmfull in your lungs....common sense.... And thanks Aaron for the great tute!

Get rid of the sand on the sides....That is one fine roadster!!!

Just don't forget to grease the 5th wheel before you grab that first trailer...........

Looks like " A RESIN GRILL ".........