Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

bluenote

Members
  • Posts

    100
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by bluenote

  1. So, I've decided to order the Green Stuff chrome paint. I was looking at reviews as well on Youtube (Barbatosrex), and the Green Stuff seems to be better than AK super chrome for brush applications. Thank you for your suggestion (and everyone else's as well)
  2. No, I'm referring to the old testors square bottles and this one was simply called chrome. it looked just like liquid chrome, no metallic, etc. I decanted the molotow pens into an empty jar, and after a few months, it's all settled. When I shake it and stir it, it doesn't look like liquid chrome, but rather simply a metallic silver with visible metallic.
  3. thanks for all the responses guys! I think I'm going to try AK super chrome, that looks to be what I need.
  4. Hi Everyone, when cutting parts off of the chrome plated trees, I need to touch up the part that I've removed. Years ago, Testors Chrome enamel paint was perfect. unfortunately, it was discontinued years ago. I have tried the molotow pens, either straight from the pen or empty into a jar and brushed on, and it never seems to work. It always ends up as a silver metallic, not shiny chrome. I have shaken, stirred, etc, and it never seems to work. Any suggestions? (I only need it for part touchups, I use Baremetal foil for window trim, and I'm very happy with that) Thanks!
  5. I would do the same thing and switch to airbrushing their LP paints, but their LP paints are still missing a lot of their rattle can colours. It's too bad they don't have the same colour catalogue in both rattle can and LP bottle paints.
  6. this is looking more positive, looks like this will be resolved eventually. I'm surprised too that Tamiya is reformulating. (According to the video). The thing is, you could say that canada is a small market, which it is, but this also affects their PS paint line. That is used specifically for their RC cars, and if you can't buy the paint for RC car kits, then perhaps that would affect sales of their RC cars? Same with their model kits. Not having their spray cans could possibly affect people buying Tamiya model kits too. The thing with Tamiya, is they offer a complete package for the hobbyist. You buy a kit, their instructions call out all the Tamiya paints, and you have all of the Tamiya tools and accessories to help build the model. You take out their spray paint from that equation, and it could affect overall sales. I'm the minority I'm sure, but I use Tamiya products exclusively. Paints, tools, etc.
  7. Good point. I used to buy Tamiya enamels (yes, enamels, not acrylic) paints from Japan on Ebay, and always received them. (I may have just gotten lucky) Canada then started allowing the sale of Tamiya enamels starting a few years ago, so I now get them from my local hobby shop. Strangely though, Tamiya enamels are not allowed to be sold in the US. Tamiya sprays are fine in the US, now not fine in Canada, while their enamels are allowed in Canada, but not in US? I think I'll just let this play out for the next while and see what happens!
  8. as well, I imagine we canadians can buy from Ebay still. More expensive, sure, but for the time being that should work.
  9. just heard about this news, pretty disapointing to hear this. I exclusively use tamiya spray paints. I much prefer them vs airbrushing. It does sound like it may be a temporary issue while they sort out labelling/forumulation. I'm hopeful anyway.
  10. I don't typically prime except for the body. I'm wondering now if I should give all the parts on the sprue a coat of tamiya rattle can primer before painting....
  11. Tamiya TS-58 Pearl Light Blue is a nice blue/silver metallic colour.
  12. I think Tamiya TS-54 Light Metallic Blue may be a close match as well. Could play with the base undercoat to slightly change the colour
  13. this is a good idea. Perhaps their dark green over a black base, and then clear with Tamiya's pearl clear, which will give it the metallic effect. (I've used their pearl clear and it's in scale to me, or at least close enough)
  14. I'm the opposite. I used to use airbrushes, including Scalefinishes. I only build about a couple of models per year, as I have other hobbies, and commitments, etc and I don't build in the summer because that's outdoor time. Of the models I build, sometimes it's european cars, muscle cars, star wars ships, superheros, motorcyles, etc. I got tired of having to setup the airbrush, cleaning it, etc, when I found that Tamiya spray cans gave me almost the exact same finish in the fraction of the time. I got tired of buying 1 colour from scalefinishes and with shipping would cost close to $45 (i'm in canada) for a colour I would use only once. I could find most colours I needed from Tamiya spray cans. If not exact, then close enough for my liking. Sure, there are some unique colours that you can't find a close match for, mostly muscle car colours like plum crazy or a metallic teal, etc, but for the most part I can make do. I have a spray booth in the basement, and Tamiya spray cans are just so forgiving and easy to use. Spray cans made the hobby more fun for me to be honest.
  15. I use tamiya for all glues. Regular tamiya, extra thin, and their ca glue. Also, their craft clear glue for clear parts. All I need
  16. For me, I'll never use 2k clear for a building model cars, it seems way too toxic for a hobby. I always just use good ol Tamiya Clear in the rattle can. But, can anyone clarify the positive of 2k Clear? is it ease of use or is the result any better than hobby clears? Not to hijack the thread, so I will contribute to the OP's question and say that i've heard good things about Scalefinishes 2k clear.
  17. curious how the metallic is with the Testors Purplelicious? They seem to be rather large compared to Tamiya sprays and scalefinishes/mcw
  18. Maybe it's just me, but unless it's a convertible, I find it's very hard to see the flocking/embossing powder on the finished interior, especially on a black interior. I just recently used Ken's fuzzy fur on a 1970 challenger (black interior). I can barely see it, let alone see if the scale is correct, etc. I think I could have simply painted instead, and it would barely make a difference. I would imagine a light colour interior would be easier to see, but I haven't done a light interior yet.
  19. Hi everyone, I'm building a 1970 Challenger Revell kit, and just finished the baremetal foil around the window frames. The excess foil is on the interior, how do you hide this? do you paint over it with the interior paint colour? Do you just trim the foil as much as possible so that it's not visible on the inside? If you look in the interior, you can see the silver foil. Any suggestions? Thanks!
  20. Aw damn, that's really sad news. I really enjoyed his videos. Rip
  21. I couldn't agree more. I know lots of people use 2k clear, but I would never use stuff like that for models. Good ol' Tamiya TS-13 clear is all I need. I'm not even crazy about using Scalefinishes (automotive grade paint) sometimes, but alas, sometimes they only have the colour I'm needing. If Tamiya had most of the Mopar colours, I'd only be using Tamiya.
  22. I think Tamiya TS-10 French Blue or TS-23 Light Blue would be a good match
  23. great info here! I almost always use rattle cans. The one problem I have, is the paint seems to not cover on high edges and/or door panels, etc. I think I need to do more mist coats first, then the heavier wet coat. I think I go on too heavy to start
  24. Myself, I just use Tamiya rattle cans. I know exactly what to expect, they are perfect every time. Quick and easy. They are pricey, but I only build a few kits per year. I use scalefinishes for cars that I need a unique colour for.
×
×
  • Create New...