CAL

Raul pretty much nailed it. a couple of addition tips I found helpful. Q-tips also work well for burnishing down BMF When doing emblems, I use ISO when the paint is still soft, NOT WET, but soft. It is really easy to sand right through BMF. If that happens you're done, and you will have to start over. A new sharp #11 is a must, I will go through 2-3 blades on a single body. I save them because they are still plenty sharp for other things. I also seal BMF with Future so it doesn't come off while handeling, because it will if you don't

Yeah, I am running Comcast cable, which is consistantly one of the fastest connection out there, and it's be slow here.

Hasegawa Ferrari 250 TR

Hasegawa Ferrari 250 TR

An early b-day present wheels too.

Chevies Chevies and more Chevies, more like a big disaster area.... I haven't dove into it yet but it is supposed to be a collection of chevies. Revell 57 Nomad, which is new in the box. then a box containing, which may take a while to decipher. Revell 57 Belair AMT 57 Sport Coupe Revell 56 Revell 55 Revell 57 Soft seal ProMod.

I concur, awesome paint job.

I concur, awesome paint job.

Nice, looks like some of Frank Miller, Luis Royo, and Boris Vallejo's works.. I don't have anything against Badger Brushes. They have work well for me. It is just getting more and more difficult to get parts, and the little experience with Iwata I did have I was impressed with.

Yeah! That used to be, at least around here, everybody is dropping Badger and only stocking Iwata. They have closed out all their Badger parts. I can't even get needles and heads anymore without mail ordering them. Otherwise my Badgers have serviced me very well.

also a Badger 150 and 200 user. Good brushes, but I did have the chance to use a Iwata, which even better. For modeling you probably want a PLUS series. e.g. HP-XX Plus. An HP-C Plus is going to be my next brush for sure. for these reasons High-Precision, High-Detail Work Renowned as the professional's workhorse, the popular High Performance Series has just been pumped up these inspired new features. Dual-purpose, cutaway and pre-set handle for easy clean up and precise control of paint flow Teflonâ„¢ needle packing for automotive or other solvent-based paints Larger threads on the nozzle offer a more secure fit and better centering of the nozzle Redesigned tapered gravity-feed cups ensure easy clean up and more efficient paint flow Single-piece auxiliary lever/needle-chucking guide provides easy assembly

pretty much what has been said with a few adds. I like to use micro mesh, and rubbing and polishing compounds from Turtle Wax and for those hard to reach spots wooden stick Q-tips chucked up in a cordless drill. I also like diper cloth.

Um ya never asked. I did finally get the rebuild on it finished up

NP I have seen that one before too. I was think of a kitty litter bucket and I seen one from a roung 5 gal bucket. I remember some of how it was built but not everything. Something that's not going to take up that much space becaue I am probably not going to use it a whole lot. So I don't need it that elaborate. Oh well I am sure I will come across it agian.

here is even a bigger money pit of mine but do extrems not quite as the smallest model in the world, which was done under a electronmicroscope oh here it is in 1:1

simply more coats.

negative ghost writer. It is very thin and requires many coats to get to a glass finish, but one you get there you cannot beat the shine or depth. I did try Zymol, which is the best car wax in the world - it's the only thing I use on my real cars. Maybe I didn't let the Future cure enough but I got streaking. In the end it wasn't worth the effort as it didn't drastically improve the finish. But, Bob is correct in that it is not a miracle elixir. It will not fix problems in the paint itself. Dale is correct that near almost everything else I tried, and I tried quite a few different things striped Future right off, but Zymol didn't. It does sand easy thought, and I might consider taking some fine micro mesh to it, but even after 12000 you still might end up with a haze and swirles.

Sweet here is my RS4-3 I have far too much money in this thing all the hopups Purple alu everything YR A Arms YR Uprights YR Knuckles HPI Super Chassis GPM Diff Cases GPM handle YR Steering RPM Ball links YR Front bumper Dynamite Fail Safe Motor Saver aircleaner MIP CVDS Fiber brake disc Fuel Tank Mounts Carbon Fiber upper deck Carbon Fiber shock mounts HPI sway bars NiMH 5cell OS 18 w/slide carb Racers Edge throttle horn Wolfpack 2Speed Wolfpack engine mounts Super Shocks HG Alloy wheels TEAM Titanum hardware Hot Bodies Ceterforce Clutch CVEC Pipe Ported and Polish header pipe JR Steering Horn Support HD Final Drive Set Custom sway bar mounts Custom Steering mounts all ball bearings even on the steering Stix Paint Deans Connectors and more I probably should have done something better with all that money

I have used an office chair for a long time know and it's been great. However, my only complaint is, at least for my setup, it doesn't go high enough. So next time around I will do a drafting chair, which is very similar to a standard office chair just taller.

you have a few options. 1. suffer with it. 2. touch it up with Testors MM Chrome 3. strip all the chrome off and repaint with Alclad II 4. strip all the chrome and send it off to Chrome Tech.

the link has an error

Yeah, I know, but it depends on who you ask I guess.

Somewhere I saw a Vacuum Forming rig from a five gallon bucket... I want to make something like that; can someone point me in the right direction? TIA

it's one of them there Jitneies.

That' what I read too. Southern slang; Refers to the "Donkey" badge on the Impala, and originally exclusive to an Impala only.