CAL

Testors Pro Red and Milliput

I make movies, and have BFA in Film Writing Directing from UCD CAR CFVI. http://s244.photobucket.com/albums/gg3/mak...t=MMPorsche.flv

I was at the right place at the right time. Mine is an old Humbrol rack. It's not as nice as that MM rack but it works.

There isn't a best thing, it's whatever works. I have a selection of steel and soft brass hanging wire, craft wire, and Detail Master wire in just about ever size, Evergreen plastic rod and tubes, solid core solder, K&S spring steel, and a selection of small guage electrical wire - I probably have 50 different wires, tubes, and plastic rod to make just about anything I want. However the general rule is: If I replicating a hard line I will use something stiff like spring steel so the line is striaght as possible. Soft lines and hoses something softer that I can easily put a sag in.

Here is my booth and my work bench

Pretty much like everyone else, what ever strikes me at the time. It could be a someone elses build, could be some thing I saw somewhere, could be working on one model that sparks another. I don't think there has been any one reason that's inspired me to build X. I also do tend to have several going at the same time, Revell Porsche GT-1 EVO Revell Lambo Diablo VT Revell AG Ferrari F2005 Johan Mercedes 500k Special Limo - why it's called a limo I don't know. It's seems to be a coupe to me. And a few more in the wings Tamiya Mercedes GTR mostly built. Tamiya Ferrari Enzo with the engine started. AMT Pro Shop 57 Chevy that needs the interior built. Eleanor, which I have taken a break from and waiting for the anticipated German resin release of the kit. Italeri Porsche Turbo barely started on preping the body. AMT Pro Street 67 Nova body is ready to go into the booth. and will work on whatever is moving along the best at that moment. If it starts to fight I move on to the next. I am trying to finish what I have started unless I really get the itch to build something else. So far I have resisted that urge. This is what the bench is looking like at this ten-seconds. Come back in a day or two it could look completely different.

Yeah, you could do that but you can sneak a peak of the engine through the rear and the exhaust openings so you do have to paint it. I also had to completely re-vamp the header pipes.

It has some issues with the finish so it's going back in the booth for a little touch-up, and is a pain to paint because of all the aerodynamics and wings. It's hard to lay down a even coat of paint - and not overspray on some other part of the body. I used Model Master Acrylic Italian Red. I polished on it and polished on it and polished some more and cannot get a real high gloss finish. I can make it look good but not great, not like enamel. The kit itself has some issues and would do it differently if I ever did another one. In any event here is the list. I did add the "LATE" aero package: the side pod spliters and the little wings on the nose. The way it's partially presented on the box art. The intake runners fit like crapp and need a lot of filling and sanding. A jet model trick is to pour elmers down the intake, but I just loaded it up with Tamiya medium primer after getting it close with filler and sanding. The trick is the far rear side covers, which are attached to the bottom, which is natural CF. So, in otherwords, the whole bottom will be black and decaled except for these side covers, which are red. So you'll need to mask them off, but I think I would cut them off and glue them to the rest of the body because there is a seam there by the suspension at the top. It's a compound problem really with no good solution. I ended up filling the gap with some Evergreen plastic and still not sure how to take care of the seam - because at that point the model is basically built and painted. So like I said I would probably cut them off and glue them to body. That way one could take care of that seam and then paint the body red without worrying about a seam later or masking them off. It's a little late for me to do it now though. The other problem is the way it build the suspension is a problem, at least it has a easy solution. I cut the front upper in half and cut off the rear from the upper trans mount so I could install them last. The wheels are the only other major problems. They stick out too far for starters, easily corrected by grinding down the center post inside the wheel. The other problem is the wheels are intended to snap on and roll freely, which makes it look like a toy. I cut those down, drilled out the ends and made some wheel nuts for them. A drastic improvement. The tires are junk. Some kind of greasy shinny rubber that I had a hard time dulling up. The other major problem is they are STUPID. Yeah, stupid, besides not fitting the rims worth a ######, the front narrow tires are a bigger diamiter than the rear wider ones, so the model looks funny - at least to me. Obviously, if you have looked at the kit the belts are molded into the seat, which wouldn't be the end of the world if there were some decals for them, but there is not. So I am planning on used Eduard pre-colored belts after grinding the kit ones away. Otherwise, the kit itself is a little heavy handed for a good looking F1 model, but by thinning everything down to a near razor edge helps the kit significantly. Especially the scoops for the brakes, which I opened and thinned. I also redid the headers, which are way too small and dorky looking at the tips. I cut just past the collector and glued a new Evergreen tube on the end and thinned. Also don't make the mistake I made on the dorsal fins. I filled in the seam, which there is actaully a body line there so I had to go back and rescribe around them - out smarted myself. All in all, I have enjoyed building this kit overall; however, it's not a quickie build. But it's been fun to build even with all it's problems.

I have had pretty good luck brush painted MM Acrylics when they are fresh. Virtually no brush marks in the finish - at least on small parts.

It wasn't until 1948 GM regained any ties with Opel, at least what was left of it, and part of Opel was already siezed by the Russians in 1945 and much of Opel was distroyed by Allied Bombings in 1944.

it was Henri Toivonen and Co-Pilot Sergio Cresto's, the Purtuguese Rally tragedy when Joaguim Santos plowed into a crowed of spectators, the death of Marc Surer's accident (also in a RS200) that killed his co-driver was the final straws for Group B.

Yeah, I have had a lot of AMT short shots.

Yeah, I only have a couple sealed kits that are dups. Most kits do not come sealed it's a US Phenomenon that US and US Importers do. The hobby store I worked in once upon a time had to seal and shrink-wrap most of all the import kits. Furthermore, it's the prized sealed kit that someday someone will open only to discover a problem with the kit: badly warped, missing parts, wrong kit in the box, or other problem

They had a lot of tire problems especially at Daytona.

They dominated Paris-Dakar and came in 1st and 2nd, and pulled out an impressive overall 7th at Le Mans.

Yeah, it would have been nice to see what the Porsche 959 would have done in Group B. At least there would have been an Audi challenger. They just killed too many drivers and spectators and got axed before the 959 got a chance.

I just use a small brush. You need a good natrual hair brush otherwise the cheapy brush fall apart with Tenax, METHYLENE CHLORIDE or dichloromethane CH2Cl2. and Not MEK (Methel Ethyl Ketone) CH3COCH2CH3 like everyone thinks. I don't clean it when I am done and have been using the same brush for Tenax for years. It will get hard just dip it back in the Tenax before using it and it will soften back up in a few seconds. There are some special applicators for the stuff, but I never used them. I think I even have a bunch somewhere. They are little bendable sticks with a fuzz at the tip. You'll like it; it's become my welder "glue" of choice. I still use Testors liquid, too for bigger jobs, filling gaps, and other specialty uses where you just can't hold the parts together long enough to Tenax to set. That is the secret trick, is you need to be able to firmly hold the parts together for 10 seconds or so. However, the other cool thing is you can hold the parts together and just brush Tenax on the seam and it will "wick" in the crack, and if you get it just right no filler needed. Sand smooth and you're done.

Mazda 787B, the only Japanese car to win the 24 Hrs of LeMans.

How about this for a ignition wiring nightmare. a 4 rotor 787B with not one but two trailing plugs.

Too bad it will be mostly covered up

no problem just glue them on. Modify the kit wheel mount as necessary: shorten mounting pin and or drill mounting hole in wheel to correct size and glue those suckers on.

I believe it is called Bright Brass.

That's exactly what I was thinking Gold or Brass with clear yellow over it. Maybe even a little flat. Real gold anodized aluminum almost looks like real brass. Another think funny about anodized aluminum is on batch always looks different than the next.

Sweet, this is perfect. Thanks. I have a 7 Revell, 3 Tamiya, and 4 UT The Revell is a kit you love to hate or hate to love. So good in so many ways but fall short in so many ways. There is a bunch of problems with the Revell kit. Maybe thats why the Revell rear wheel openings look all wrong. Perhaps they got that from the street version, I think they are the same front to rear.