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Looking for some good photos of a Porsche GT1 engine. Mainly behind the pulley plate. Where do all the cooling and oil hoses go? what does the water pump look like? Which pully drives what? Thanks in advance.

Personally, I like the Olympus. #1 most important is a Macro lens setting, or at the very least a macro add on lens. #2 the most MP you can afford. a manual F-stop is handy but not absolutely necessary. If you can afford a Digi SRL I would go that route. As far as picture taking itself. set up a little studio with a three point lighting system - it doesn't have to be anything fancy.

yup once it's full you have to delete some to add more. Better to get an account with a photo host like Photobucket and tag them from here.

I'll be good for at least one. It does look like a good kit.

well, there isn't steps where you can say do this, here is a picture, do this, here is a picture. It is more of a fluid process, once started there is nowhere good to stop and take a photo. Maybe a video would work. The way I do it is have everything ready: Inks, detailer and ISO ready. If I am doing a lot I will get a plastic artist water color pallet. The start with ISO this breaks the water tension and helps flow, then color, depending on what it is, exhaust blue I will use black, blue and violet inks, most everything else black except interiors like leather seats I do a different way. Once the inks and detailer start to dry I apply more ISO to soften and highlight. It is a case where less is more. You just got to keep working it until you are happy. If you work it too much then you make mud and have to start over. Then depending on if I am doing a new vehicle with highlights I am done. If I am doing a old used vehicle I will post shade with a real thin mix of color that the original part was painted. Leather I do with a light color acrylic base and work artist oils over that. If you use enamels the artist oils just strip off your base and makes a mess. This method is a little more doable with photos because there is steps. Acrylic base, artist oils, and keep wipping off the excess oils with a clean brush until you have the disired effect achieved.

Yeah, I use a lot of Winsor & Newton inks.

Not sure, I just get it from the LHS. It's call "The Detailer" I would imagine that Stradasport or someplace like that would have it.

Revell AG F2003 Slightly modified Late aero package Opened scoop Seperated Front wing Opened winglets and thinned everything possible

thanks, once the belly pan stays on by itself I take some more "studio" pics. It was a pain in the arse to paint, yellow aways is, but I agree, there isn't another color that would do it this much justice. No, it's insignia yellow, which is flat, and Boyd's Bright Yellow over that. Didn't modify anything just out of the box. I used the tall spoiler vs. the low which both are included. It was a relearning experience.

it's not perfect, certianly not my best work, I wouldn't even take it to a show but it's done, and it's been a long time since I actaully finished something.

Yes, Bedford continued to make the Blitz til 1987. GM aquired Opel, however, in 1940 after the Nazi party had taken over passenger car production GM wrote Opel off as a complete loss. So there was no ties to GM when the Blitz was being made. Further back Opel was building cars. All the German companies pretty much avoid that part of their history. BMW Mercedes Benz Damiler Benz Krupp Porsche Bosch Ford AG Carl Ziess Kodak AG Maybach Messerschmitt and on and on and on but all had their part in WWII.

that's awesome. Like the color, carbon fiber, nice job.

I believe it holds a number of records for a production car: Most expensive ($20,000.00 w/o the coachwork $43,000.00 new) not exactly a hot seller in 1931-depression, last auctioned over ten years ago for a mere 8.7 million (1987), biggest, and has one of the longest wheel base 15 feet, and largest engine 12.7 liter straight 8. It once sold for $350 (the storage fee) after it was left in a barn with a cracked block from a guy who didn't know what it was just that it was a headach and there was a storage fee on it. It's located in the Henry Ford Museum and is suspected fetch well over $10M, but it's not for sale. 5! that's more than Bugatti built.

Probably not, Germany didn't typically "copy" another design. So I would have to say proabably unique to Opel whereas GM/GMC in that era 3 ton truck had a wrap around grill and the Blitz, like most Greman trucks were flat. They look more like a Ford than a GM/GMC at least in the nose.

I agree, I also agree that creating a sports car section isn't necessarily going make anybody who isn’t interested, interested; however, it certainly wouldn’t hurt anything, or anybody to have a sports car section. Personally I can appreciate any well-built model, but I am far more interested in sports cars than American Muscles, which is only about 10% of my collection. And I have zero interest in NASCAR even with some of the F-1 boys migrating over, I still have zero interest. Furthermore, sports car racing is spreading like wildfire in this country. The biggest sporting event in the world? It’s not the super bowl. It’s not NASCAR, It’s not with World Series, It’s not NHRA, and It’s not even the Olympics. It was the record 2000 24 hrs of Le Mans where over 1.3 billion, yes billion people from 63 countries– an official French Government figure, watched some or the entire event. That’s more spectators than NASCAR gets in a whole year. So we are out here, just haven't been heard yet.

While I had to reshoot the GT2 because the rear window frame cracked near the engine cover I thought I would work on my Revell Diablo VT. I started it several years ago and now I am remembering why I stopped working on it. Nothing fits, everything is warped, poorly engineered, the "glass" is horrible. It doesn't even sit level. It almost flew... but I am going to build it damit man.

Usually, pearl is flat and goes over the base and then cleared; however, I haven't used Tamiya system. The MM system you can get away with the pearl as the top and final coat.

what! no sports car section?

No, it's been slow today. Most of time I haven't had any trouble, but it took a long time just to up a single photo - that was about an hour ago.

No, it's been slow today. Most of time I haven't had any trouble, but it took a long time just to up a single photo - that was about an hour ago.

Yes, you need to cut out the floors of as many trays as needed to get the hight required for a body, and if you prefer a stand, which is probably about 4 or 5 depending on the dehydrator. They are just plastic so a saw or dremal with the right bit will cut and clean the trays you cut (to make stackable rings)

Like model martin said. You just got to get in and do. Figure out what works best for you. There is a pretty good learning curve and a number of different products that give different results. Throwing away product is part of the learning curve. Some things just don't work out or a mistake is made. I have thrown away a lot more parts than rubber. So far I have liked Smooth On 320 the best, but I have found a good Smooth On rubber. I use Experts Choice RTV. I also found, when not casting with vacuum or pressure the more shallow the mold the better the results. I try to pour the resin in a slow steady stream and then go back and push out the airbubbles with a tooth pick. It has worked pretty good with 320, and not so good with Pur-A-Cast. I haven't heard of or used baby powder either, but I am interested in giving it a try. I have always used Smooth On Universal release agent, which has always worked well as long as it's dry when you pour your resin. Eventually you will probably want to start vacuuming your rubber, and pressure, spin or vacuum cast you parts, especially with more complex masters and molds. Probably the single biggest thing that is a problem with casting resin is moisture and humidity. Second is temp.

it's just silicone. It's not going to hurt you, unless you eat a whole bunch of it.

Thanks, but it's not sci-fi lol. Works good for that, too, though. It's actaully a WWII Japanese Imperial Navy Seiran, or Sub Plane. I was a cool little, well not so little, two place fighter attack plane the folded up into a small enough pakage that the Japanese could put three on specailly modified I-400 (the biggest sub built during WWII; biggest sub until 1960) class subs. Photo courtesy of the Smithsonian Washington D.C. The idea was they cross the Pacific emerge off the cost of California and launch a bunch of Seirans.