Dave G.

It has worked for me under all the paints I commonly use on plastic models. I have not tried it, nor tested it with hot lacquers though.

From what I've read about the SMS paints the solvents in them are fairly hot. You're going to want a lacquer primer under those paints. Or that's what I would use anyway. Otherwise you could get crazing, cracking or sand scratch swelling going on. It's been a couple of years now since I've shot lacquer color but I keep Mr Primer Surfacer 1000 ( in a jar) on hand and also a Mr Surfacer spray can on hand for lacquers, in case that desire for lacquer re-ignites.

Yes 4030 will seriously improve hardness and adhesion of waterborne acrylic paint. Just 10-15% or so added to your mix will help it kick to a hard finish. I have not conducted tests with 4030 for alcohol based acrylic paints though, like Tamiya. 4050 is interesting too, though thicker than 4030. 4050 also adds UV protection to the properties of 4030. These are Createx products, they convert acrylic paints to PolyAcrylic. Either can be used as carrier for the Candy2o system as well. FWIW, Stynylrez primer is also a PolyAcrylic primer. It's ability to stick to hard plastic is phenomenal. And a natural to use under acrylic paints. Edit: I just wanted to add that Createx 4021 was specifically designed as reducer for better flow out in their acrylic paints using 4030 or 4050 as a poly conversion. And it works very well, even with craft paints. To me 4021 is to waterborne paints what Mr Leveling thinner is to lacquers.

What stops me most is scale effect from 1:1 down to models. If it's off, whatever "it" is within the kit, I'm set back. That could be wheel base, tire or wheel size or profile etc. And just desire to finish it, because I enjoy airbrushing most at this stage of my life. I tend to finish more crafts or oil paintings than I do model cars at age 75. Some of this goes back to my 1:1 days of painting, refinishing, rebuilding all sorts of automotive equipment. Including building my own trailers for my drag racing cars. A model car can be fun to do but it won't ever fill the slot of having done the real thing ! In model railroading with my boys I came to a similar conclusion. For instance, while nice, a model of an EMD E9 isn't ever going to behave like a 317,000 lb real locomotive. So when the kids grew up and grand kids came, I reduced everything down to an annual On30 Christmas scene railroad, filling an entirely different purpose at that point. And by the way, one of those boys today is an engineer for CSX and his son ( my grandson) a conductor for the same railroad.

I could be wrong but I think the One Coat clear is a mild lacquer. Enamels gas out for weeks compared with lacquer, thus shrink at a different rate and you get the cracks at some point. I bring up mild lacquer, because hot lacquers would wrinkle fresh enamel right away.

Pearl Ex are mica powders but finer than some other brands I've used. My wife and I both use pearl and metallic mica powders in art work. Pearl Ex isn't the only game in town but you have seen the effect it gives in Mike's Corvettes, so who can argue ! This is from our google Ai buddy: Pearl Ex powders are made from powdered mica, a mineral, and are considered inert, non-toxic pigments designed to create a pearlescent or metallic effect when mixed into a viscous medium. These pigments are used in art for applications like painting, ceramics, and polymer clay and will not tarnish or fade. Composition: Pearl Ex powders are powdered mica that provides a lustrous glow without being a metal. Pigment type: They are classified as inert pigments, which are stable and don't react chemically. Usage: They can be mixed with any viscous medium such as acrylics, oils, resin, glues, inks, and varnishes. They can also be spread dry on porous surfaces. Durability: They are extremely colorfast and stable, making them suitable for both interior and exterior applications, and they will not rust or tarnish. Safety: While they are non-toxic, they are specifically for art and craft use and are not intended for cosmetic use.

Supposedly it was a custom color painted by a company named Dream Machine. No specification. But I've seen online photos of the car at various tracks, in various lighting, looking from just dark red to royal burgundy. Undoubtedly there was more than one body as well, if not cars. It does look to be a solid color, non metallic, much like a red that Ford had around 1969-1970ish called Royal Maroon.. Lots of manufacturers had a maroon through the years, though, pick one that looks close I guess ! Here is a chip of Royal Maroon

I have that kit in my stash someplace, since about 1990 I think. Thanks for building it ! You're brave going with black on your fist build, arguably not always the easiest to get right. You did well on a first build, congrats ! You will grow from here, half the battle is just finishing that first kit. So no nit picking, not from me at least.

I've learned after 60 years of modelling, somewhere along the way, to sleep on it before tossing the baby out with the bath water. Sometimes sleep on it for several nights.

If you want to see how Mazda paint is done, or for that matter the systems I mention also about Createx, watch this paint repair on a Mazda with Soul Red.

Black JB Weld 6 minute cure is what I would use.

Well it's only to polish if that's what you want ! I don't see it in person though, as such I can't say or see that it needs sanding. When that's the case for myself I just go with a fine scratch remover, that tends to bring up the gloss. Then I may use a soft polishing/ soft wax. Or not.

Looks to me like the Camaro mostly just needs polishing

There are a couple of different ways to get to that color and the effect using Createx products, then with a clear lacquer top coat. It's in steps though. That color doesn't look to be single stage paint anyway though, fwiw. I'm pretty sure it has a base color ( probably gold), the red which is likely semi transparent and builds to the desired saturation in multi coats, deepening with each added coat, and finally a clear top coat. I said lacquer clear coat because I personally will not use 2k clear, but that's an option for those who do. That's my take anyway.

I notice that over in the FSM forums, the guys there are heavy into both armor and military aircraft.