Rakentaja

A few decal added to the rims, tires and dashboards.

Great work and good photos. ?

A little taste of car coloring with Mr.Hobby Aqueous Color. Cabrio on left H36 Dark Green, Limousine on left H54 Navy Blue, Cabriolet on right H43 Wine Red and Limousine on right H35 Cobalt Blue.

Thank you David.

Slowly, really slowly, these are progressing. When everything has to be done four times then it takes its own time. Four times engine and gearbox. Engine: 75hp/3200rpm, straight 6-cyl 4-stroke OHV, 3626cc. Gearbox: Opel, 3 speeds, Ratios: I - 2.94, II - 1.66, III - 1.00, rear - 3.78.

I finally got the door panels and seats painted. I used MrHobby Aqueous paints. From left to right, the colors are H51 Light Gull Gray, H41 Pale Green, H21 Off White, and H66 RLM79 Sandy Brown. In the picture that H51 Light Gull Gray looks mostly light brown, but actually it is gray.

Golf Cabrio that was build in 2020.

Atlantis models https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RBkD9i1lkufIJq0Bl5biaX2QOPL0Bmxl/view

VW 1303 Cabriolet 1:8 scale model with over 500 parts. https://shop.autographmodel.com/LeGrand-1-8-model-kit-LE101-Volkswagen-Beetle-1303-Cabriolet-viper-green-met It's not cheap.

Thank you to all of you.

I have added some missing parts to the frames (the white ones). For example, the gearbox had no support at all.

Techcnical Data about this car. Opel Admiral

It will never happen, at least not when I do. ?

Sorry. These are all made by ICM, and two of them are repackaged by Revell. These new ones no longer contain chromium parts at all. Last year, when I built these, there were still chrome parts in the ICM boxes. There have never been chrome parts in Revell’s boxes. There is really no harm in that now, as chromium should be removed from almost all parts, however.

Here are pictures of the real cars and colors I’m trying to make models of.

Thank you Rusty.

Two and a half Opel Admirals were not enough. ? Now I am going to do four more. 1937 Cabriolet, 1938 Cabriolet, 1938 Limousine with folding sunroof and 1939 Limousine.

I have used medicine cups for many years. They are cheap and they have also a lid.

Yo have done it right.

Unfortunately, I have to stop building this. It makes no sense to continue until I get new rims somewhere. After removing the chrome and the varnish underneath it, the plastic was so brittle that a piece of the front rim broke and the entire rim was full of cracks. I have read that others have had the same problems. The quality of the plastic is apparently such that it cannot withstand any substances needed to remove chromium and varnish. The chrome actually came off quickly, about in one hour, but it took about a day for the varnish to come off. And it was too much for plastic, which became brittle.

I have now painted all parts and the next step will be to change the spokes to the rims.

The first model from my Heller Prestige collection of 1:8 motorcycles (one is still missing, I hope someone will kindly buy it to me). There are only 140 parts here (+ spokes I will replace), all the other motorcycles have about 300 parts. It comes with paints, a brush and glue. The brush and glue are ok. The paints are unusable because they have dried. Well, I have suitable acrylic paints. There is also a 0.5 mm rod for making springs. I use a genuine springs, which I have ordered.

I had a motorcycle like this with same color between 1973 and 1974. I didn't change the spokes for this model because I didn’t get a suitably thick Nickel Silver Rod from Albion Alloys thanks to brexit and covid-19.

Thanks to everyone for your comments. I tried my best to do it, I wasn’t quite successful in all parts, but at least I learned something new that I can take advantage of in future building kits.