Venom

Thanks for the compliment David, and thanks for the heads up on Zero Paints, I’ll keep them in mind. I actually think I saw that paint one day on the web, they call it Honey Gold

Mike, look at the Wheel Arch Molding Foiling Tutorial... I believe it’s an Oldsmobile in the pics, and it is done in a particular gold.

5620 and 4012 reducer. I mixed the gold myself.

I took the pic last night under artificial living room lights. Under daylight conditions, the metallic isn’t so glittery. It looks very similar to this (below)... The color tone that is. But in terms of metallic, I don’t know how you would get the flake small enough to look this way on 1/24. I’m also not trying for that level of exactness, but just the right amount to be satisfying

This seems like the type of dream I’d have... and then when I woke up I’d be disappointed that I didn’t have those parts after all. Maybe a few months later I’d have a recurring dream about it and realize I’d left the body and fenders in my buddy’s garage and I’d feel so relieved!... only to wake again and realize it wasn’t true ?

Don’t want to give the big reveal before it’s finished, but here’s an idea.

Haha... it’s a sleeper!?

Hey Gary/Gramps... All those Daytonas you built and posted pics of are just great! My favorite of them has to be the green #5 car though. Nice work on those!

Hey Rex, thank you for that info!

Man, this is like the mafia... a whole world I never knew of... who’s Brad, what’s HRM and MFH?

Thanks for the link Steve... I checked out all the pics. The more pics I see of finished Gunze Daytona kits, the more I think they are one of the best 1/24 kits I’ve seen period. Steve, yours looks so spot on! The color is perfect; reminds me of the color they called Princess Blue which they later changed the name to Viking Blue. Anyway, superb work on that one...I love it! ...Liked the other cars too btw.

Nope, I didn’t get the kit... Cobraman did

Awesome! I’m gonna be looking for it.

Cool Hugh! It turned out well. I’m happy to see this up here...I’m currently working on one also. Doing it in the gold 3rd place Le Mans

Well that’s cool!... I didn’t even get to see whatever kit you guys are talking about? Maybe you can post a couple pics here after you receive it an fill our hearts with envy. Well, at least mine anyway.

That come out nice David. I’ve seen you tube videos where people were able to achieve those same results with the Createx... I just can’t seem to achieve it myself. I wonder if air pressure has anything to do with it?

No way man!

Steve, that car is beautifully done! Is that the one you built?

If it was at Hobby Lobby you could ask them to special order you a bottle. I know they do that sometimes. Our Hobby Lobby orders every week, yours probably does too

That’s what makes this clear so likeable for me... you can stack up layer after layer on top of the paint and even out some texturing and other imperfections in the paint, then if you have imperfections in the clearcoat the wet sanding and polishing can take a lot of that out. However, don’t expect miracles. When I sprayed the clear I only had to allow around 20 minutes between coats. I used the air from the airbrush to flash dry the wettest spots and then almost immediately I could spray back over it until I achieved the coverage I wanted. I live in a very dry climate though so you may have to adjust your dry times a little bit.

If you really want to be safe, give it 5 days to dry. PS: The 5620 is the only waterborne clear I’ve ever used, so perhaps this is not true about some other waterborne clears.

Mike, do not wet sand until after you have applied clearcoat. After 48 hours the clear cures to where water no longer has the ability to break it down. You can, however, still break it down with Windex I believe.

Thank you Hugh. I used Auto Air Pearlized Metallic Blue and added Auto Air Aluminum Base and very small parts of Createx Black,(non metallic), and just kept doing remixes until it looked like what I perceived to be Guardsman Blue... The stripes are just pure white with a tiny bit of Lemon Yellow added.

Thanks Mike... So I guess in short what I’m saying about the clear is that it is very workable and forgiving. So even if you don’t get the results you expected from simply spraying it, it is quite polishable.

I haven’t read every post on this thread, so forgive me if I reiterate something. I just wanted to mention that I just started using the Createx colors and clear over the summer. Some of what I used in mixing my colors was 7 year old Auto Air colors which I understand are the same company as Createx. As far as the Createx Wicked Colors line is concerned, I’m thinking it is simply their higher quality stuff based on the price jump from the regular Createx colors. The only color I had disappointment with so far has been the regular (not Wicked) Createx satin black. It took me a lot of very light coats before I coul get it opaque enough, and then when I was done and let it dry a couple days it would come off down to the bare plastic when handled with bare hands. The parts I was painting were undercarriage parts, so it wasn’t a huge issue as it would have been if I were painting the body...However I was able to solve the problem by spraying over the black with the 5620 clearcoat and 4012 reducer combined as it gave it a nice durable shell. One thing I want to stress is the learning curve. When I first started spraying this stuff I really panicked and struggled a lot, mostly with the clearcoat. I’m using the 5620 gloss clearcoat with the 4012 reducer. I kept expecting it to come out more glossy, but it would always dry to more of a satin finish. At first I hated it, but then after using some good patience with wet sanding and polishing I came to realize that it’s near impossible to screw it up in the end. The car I’m currently working on is a gold Ford GT40 and I was able to polish the clear out to a perfect high gloss. Albeit, some cars, especially vintage models look better with a less glossy sheen, so all in all I think the 5620 is awesome stuff if you have the patience for it. Getting the best mix of clear/paint plus reducer is going to come down to spray time and trial and error. I’ve been mixing my paints to be the same consistency as whole milk with great results. The clear I start out diluting with the 4012 just like the bottle says maybe only deviating by adding a few extra drops to the into airbrush. I have had some clogging where I had to break down the entire airbrush and clean with Windex, especially with the 5620 clear, even having to do a bit of scraping with a sewing needle, but I’ve accepted that this is just part of the deal and whenever I’m not going to be using the brush for a day after using the clear, I break it down and give it a thorough cleaning with the Windex. I’m using an Iwata Eclipse airbrush, and so far it cleans up well using this method. Below is a pic of the first model I painted entirely using Createx and Auto Air colors and clearcoat and then doing some polishing. After wet sanding I used Macguires Micro Scratch remover followed up with Turtle Wax Super Hard Shell. Then cleaned out all the wax from all the little crevasses with water and a tooth brush... Hope this helped at least a little.