Chuck Kourouklis

Wasn't there supposed to be a 1/16 Bus? No mention of scale that I can make out, so I guess it's the 1/24 in Lufthansa livery. F40 must be the old Monogram snapper. Don't need to be able to read German very well to see confirmation that the Ferrari SWB is the Italeri kit.

I like mine well enough - sure as shootin' it beats nothing at all! I noticed that the axle bricks have been uniform across the Aventador, Veyron, and P1, and wondered what compromises might result - thought perhaps they might play with wheel offsets to bring things closer to scale. Eh, well. They fudge the discrepancies pretty nicely.

P1 is not only super-duper obvious, but a sorely missed boat if they don't go thru with it. Guess we'll have to content ourselves with this... But yes, the P1is really a hyper car. And McLaren does make supercars that might fit the profile - 650S? 570? Wouldn't kick either of those off my bench. Aston DB10 from "Spectre" for a dark horse?

Great overview as always, Tim. Just fine with the choices Moebius made on this one - I'll dogpile with everyone else on the parts box angle (or mix 'n match with current and future Satellites for that matter).

VERY kool, and here's what grabs me from that shot: this body shell has always had a big ol' kink in the belt line right at the C-pillar that I'm not making out in this photo! Wonder if the builder leveled that or Round2 did...

Man, I could swear once upon a time Arii had a poly washer set with some rubber BFGs that would have had about the right pattern - like the ones Marc Nellis has at the bottom of this post, iIrc: Ma's Resin thread from a few years back Of course, you lose a bit of period sidewall profile, but you also get rather less of the bias-ply look Revell's Blue Streak tires give you (for anyone who might have noticed that, and not a huge deal at any rate). Also, if Revell-Monogram's decal stock were still that practically cellophane-stiffness material from decades back, I'd be right with Chris in his recommendation to remove the molded scripts before using them. But since around 2000, R/M's been using a much more flexible and compliant, solution-compatible carrier. So with that in mind, I'll offer the counterpoint that if you want a bit of 3D detail under those decals, they might just conform to the raised script with a bit of setter/softener - or at least, you don't really need to knock the molded scripts all the way down for the decals. As you might have seen at "On The Bench", the engine isn't so badly compromised in detail; its chief problem is that it comes across neither fish nor fowl as a 351. It looks like it has the Cleveland timing chain housing cast to the front of the block, but the rounded trapezoidal head design of the Windsor/Fairlane 221 family. The Boss 302 used Cleveland heads modified for a Windsor block, but whether the reverse is at all typical of a built 351, I have no idea. In my prep for block sanding, there appears to be no pigment leaching of any kind thru a few coats of Tamiya Fine White and a mist coat of Tamiya Fine Gray primers. It looks pinkish ONLY where backlighting the translucency of the red plastic comes into play.

I see what you did there. Or, y'know, don't see it.

E X X c e l l l l e n t! My ol' Italeri is buildable but kinda pillaged and loose. It'll be very nice to nab this one afresh.

Good show! Going by just about ANY recent Revell USA pattern involving new tooling, I think I'd put 10:1 on it being 1:25. As others have said repeatedly, all-new, no relation to die-cast Donks, retro/simplified design as in the S&H Torino. I'll reiterate, we only have what - nearly 30 years of Revell/Monogram re-scaling to 1/25 from patterns used for 1/24? Long as the thing looks right. And if it does, a quarter-mile comp version down the line would be pretty awesome.

So it ain't just me. Looks a little Denny's or maybe truck-stoppish but real tasty just the same.

HAH! Whatever way, it's the same to me.

And I'd like to take a moment to thank everybody for keeping it smooth and civil. Tip of the hat and much obliged to all of you.

Yup. Mentioned before, little more so with the MPC '72, the wheelbase disparity.

Heh. Jo-Han bumper has tabs that interfere with the solid area in the Revell body shell so I can't get it right in. It does look feasible with a bit of trimming, though.

Meantime, best mockup I can manage between the Jo-Han '72 and the S & H bumper: Putting the bumper at about the level as centered as I could, the gaps are about like this.

Yeah, that'd be slick for a build taking a lot longer than 24 hours! Very nicely done.

Yeah, well this West Coaster has commitments on other (published) projects. But man, the model does look like it cleans up nice!

By Jove, I think you're onto something there, Andy - just lose the lower molding! Yeah, that might open things up and allow you to widen the turn at the kink a little. I'm also toying with a scheme that grafts nearly all of the front fenders and the lower 2/3 or so on back from the sides of the Jo-Han body into Revell's... Woops, just saw your question this time, went, and had a look. Looks like the bumper wouldn't hug the contour as the 1:1's does at all. Might just see how it lines up on the '72 in a bit...

Recently relocated from Petaluma!

If you find the decal sheet on page one, the roof/C-pillar stripe is one large piece that lies atop and wraps down to the door separations. THIS should determine how you line up the side stripes that run from the rear door edges forward. Because they're independent of each other side-to-side, they're far more amenable to fine alignment if the roof stripe sets it than the roof stripe would be if the door stripes were applied even slightly out of position first. Which I'm guessing is what you said in the first place, and I thought Dave was agreeing...

NO WAY you should do the sides first, even with door handle/lock holes to guide you. Let the roof hoop be your guide...

Oh, the new one is a bit bodged - in addition to the shallower roll at the rocker panel level, the new kit isn't as close as the Jo-Han at the wheel arches either. Undressed, there's a ponderous, thick-waisted quality over the rockers and thru the quarters, and the DLO definitely seems small right now; I'm guessing that foiling the rocker panels and the DLO trim will both visually enlarge the DLO and lean out what's looking a little thick in the middle. The DLO really does seem too tight in radius as it kinks from the belt line back up to the drip molding at the C-pillar. Also, the molding is executed in such a way that the continuity of the upper door character lines into the top edges of the front fenders is broken at the A-pillar, and at some angles, there's the impression of a weird kink upward in the front fenders from the cowl forward. Still and all, the DLO on the MCW ain't even close. And that's why, even with the MCW possibly stronger in other areas, the Revell body gives a much more accurate impression overall.

The earliest releases of this kit have been out barely a week. It might be a bit soon to expect a full build just yet.

Good show, Dave! If it works for you, the rest doesn't really matter, does it?

Awesome! They can bring that any time they want.