White Rabbit

Thank you! I'm glad to do my part to keep the Cannonball going!

Picture taken atop the Red Ball Garage just prior to the start of the 1971 Cannonball Run. The eventual winners, Brock Yates and Dan Gurney, are seen just behind their Ferrari Daytona. Cannonball Run 2024 Welcome Cannonballers to the 17th Annual Cannonball Run Community build! The Cannonball Run Community is proud to present this year’s Cannonball Run theme: Restomods Old meets new in this year’s Cannonball! Modified cars running flat out across the country have been part of the Cannonball from the first running in 1971. Therefore, it’s only fitting that we keep that tradition going in small scale with restomods. So get ready to modify your classic car for an all out blast to the West! Rules and Guidelines General Vehicle Guidelines Vehicles must be street legal. They should include headlights, taillights, license plates, etc. Effectively, a vehicle that could be registered with the DMV. All body types welcomed: coupe, sedan, van, truck, etc. All drivetrains allowed: RWD, AWD/4-WD, FWD Restomod Specific Guidelines Classic or vintage vehicles that are twenty (20) years or older; that is, vehicles built from 1903 to 2004 are permitted. The vehicles must be in restored, like-new condition and modified to enhance street performance (braking, handling, power, safety, comfort, etc.). Body: Mostly stock, with additions and/or changes made with factory offered parts (different trim levels or options) Subtle trim changes permitted.^ Hoods may be changed. Circuit-only, extreme performance aerodynamics are not permitted.* Interior: Factory tub with changes made for safety and/or comfort. Roll bars are permitted, especially for open-top cars. Full roll cages are not permitted* Chassis: OEM chassis that the car was manufactured with. Suspension: Modern upgrades permitted (i.e.: independent suspension) Circuit-only, extreme performance-type suspension is not permitted. Brakes: Disc brake conversions permitted. Period-correct or modern OEM systems Aftermarket street systems (Wilwood, Brembo, etc.) Street pads Circuit-only, extreme performance brakes are not permitted Wheels and Tires: Open Bolt pattern and hubs should be in a street configuration, both OEM and aftermarket. No body modifications permitted to fit the wheels (fender flares, etc.).* Subtle adjustments, such as fender lip rolling or minor chassis adjustments may be permitted. The chassis should not "look" modified. Tires must be street legal. Engine and Transmission: Open to production engines and OEM or aftermarket transmissions (manual, semi-automatic, and automatic). Modifications should be to enhance performance and drivability; not for extreme, peak-performance. Engine swaps are permitted. Ideally, these would be within the same brand as the chassis. No race engine or transmission swaps or builds (IMSA, NASCAR, etc.). Forced induction is permitted for increased power, but not for peak-power and torque. Again, drivability should be the focus. Paint/Livery: Open Important: The builder should use their best judgment of what is within the spirit of the theme and guidelines. This year's build has a certain degree of subjectivity, therefore, it is up to the builder to decide if their modifications are within the guidelines and in keeping with the spirit of the theme and guidelines. ^Trim changes should not significantly alter the original looks of the car and is at the builder’s judgment of what is in the spirit of the guidelines. *Exception: if non-permitted parts were originally offered from the manufacturer on different trim levels or as parts-counter options. Race Guidelines 1. The build can be either a new or started kit up to 25% complete. A re-builder or parts box special is acceptable. 1/24 or 1/25. If you absolutely must do a 1/20 model we’ll likely bend the rules as we have before, but that’s the limit. EXCEPTION TO RULE 1. If you have a previously started racer from a previous running of the Cannonball (SA or MCM) 50% complete or less, they are eligible to run this year as long as they meet the theme requirement. All of our previous runs are still available on either of the two forums. If you are going to do this, please be certain it was involved in a previous run. We will continue to implement this rule each year, as the goal of this CBP was always to get people building and finishing models. 2. Before starting please post a photo of your kit(s) or pile o’ parts. No limitation on type of vehicle or technology used. 3. If for any reason you plan a build and wish to declare another entry in place of, you may do so at any time prior to the 48hrs. deadline. (please see important dates below) 4. Have fun! That’s it for rules. The following is just FYI: -You may start a separate build thread for your build if you wish, but please keep the CBP thread updated. -Build time begins on 12:00AM January 1st, 2024, local time and ends at 11:59PM on December 1st, 2024, local time. That’s a total of eleven months! -After the finish, we will create a poll and we’ll have the “race”: a public vote. -The finished builds thread will begin on November 14th so that you may post your completed vehicles. The final voting poll will based from this thread. Good quality photos are essential to best showcase your hard work. No one has won this with poor photos in poor lighting. -You may build as many models as you wish for this CBP, but only one can be entered in the finished builds thread and public voting poll prior to December 3rd. -You can enter this CBP at any time up to 48 hours before the end date of December 1st. Important Dates: 2024 January 1st, 12:00am: Official build start of the 2024 Cannonball Run November 14th, 12:00am: Finished build thread opens November 29th, 11:59pm: Last day to enter the CBR build December 1st, 11:59pm: Official build end December 3rd, 12:00am: Polling to elect a winner opens December 13th, 11.59pm: Polling closes December 17th: 2024 Winner announced With all that being said, it’s time for all you scofflaws to take this year’s run and make it your own!

Thank you for the information. I've been thinking of the bolt pattern guideline as well. The centerlock wheel that I was thinking of was a full race set-up, however, if there is a steerable aftermarket kit, then that should be acceptable. I will revise this guideline to reflect this change. Below is the updated guidelines draft. It's fairly similar to the earlier draft with some clarification of language and adjustments made in response to members' posts. Restomod Specific Guidelines Classic or vintage vehicles that are twenty (20) years or older; that is, vehicles built from 1903 to 2004 are permitted. The vehicles must be in restored, like-new condition and modified to enhance street performance (braking, handling, power, safety, comfort, etc.). Body: Mostly stock, with additions and/or changes made with factory offered parts (different trim levels or options) Subtle trim changes permitted.^ Hoods may be changed. Circuit-only, extreme performance aerodynamics are not permitted.* Interior: Factory tub with changes made for safety and/or comfort. Roll bars are permitted, especially for open-top cars. Full roll cages are not permitted* Chassis: OEM chassis that the car was manufactured with. Suspension: Modern upgrades permitted (i.e.: independent suspension) Circuit-only, extreme performance-type suspension is not permitted. Brakes: Disc brake conversions permitted. Period-correct or modern OEM systems Aftermarket street systems (Wilwood, Brembo, etc.) Street pads Circuit-only, extreme performance brakes are not permitted Wheels and Tires: Open Bolt pattern and hubs should be in a street configuration, both OEM and aftermarket. No body modifications permitted to fit the wheels (fender flares, etc.).* Subtle adjustments, such as fender lip rolling or minor chassis adjustments may be permitted. Tires must be street legal Engine and Transmission: Open to production engines and OEM or aftermarket transmissions (manual, semi-automatic, and automatic). Modifications should be to enhance performance and drivability; not for extreme, peak-performance. Engine swaps are permitted. Ideally, these would be within the same brand as the chassis. No race engine or transmission swaps or builds (IMSA, NASCAR, etc.). Forced induction is permitted for increased power, but not for peak-power and torque. Again, drivability should be the focus. Paint/Livery: Open The builder should use their best judgment of what is within the spirit of the theme and guidelines. ^Trim changes should not significantly alter the original looks of the car and is at the builder’s judgment of what is in the spirit of the guidelines. *Exception: if non-permitted parts were originally offered from the manufacturer on different trim levels or as parts-counter options.

For the final guidelines, and based on your post, I've clarified the bolt pattern point. Indeed, this refers only to number of lugs so that the look still remains within the model range. PCD, especially at 1/24 or 1/25 scale, is really not an issue. Trim changes should not significantly alter the original looks of the car and is at the builders' discretion of what is in the spirit of the guidelines. Modern suspensions are permitted with the goal of enhancing street performance (handling, ride quality, comfort and/or safety). Circuit-only, extreme performance systems are not permitted.

Thank you! I'll have the main build thread up in the coming days. Great point!

Hello all! So, I just wanted to share some thoughts. The Cannonball should be about fun and building what you like within the chosen theme, not stressing if a small detail is permissible or not. The guidelines are important as they create consistency for the theme, but they are just an outline. That is, the builds should be built with the "spirit" of the theme in mind. This is even more true this year with a theme that has multiple interpretations and a lot of subjectivity involved. Therefore, we should all use our best judgment with modifications. I reread the guidelines draft I posted earlier, and, actually, it's quite open to interpretation. I intentionally left some points vague, like "...subtle body changes..." so that the builder can decide if a change is too much or just right. In the end, we're building in scale here and it's the believability of the mods that is important so long as they keep within the spirit of the theme and the build. My goal is that everyone will enjoy the build and not stress over minute details; that's not what the Cannonball is about. We're outlaws, after all! My suggestion is that we all relax, work within the spirit of Restomods, and build something that we'll enjoy.

I certainly understand your concern and agree that there should be enough room within the guidelines to allow for a great scope of creativity. Coming from an arts background, I've found that it's also true that some guidelines may actually increase creativity in the sense that it gives greater focus and pushes the builder the think of unique ways of solving a problem while still being within the spirit of the theme. One just needs to look at top-tier racing, like F1 or IMSA, to see how teams find creative solutions within very restrictive regulations (especially in F1). They're not always able to fall back on known paradigms and what has worked in the past. Similarly, for our purposes, builders may find themselves solving a particular problem in a very different way than in the past and gaining a learning experience along the way or finding a solution that would not otherwise have been found. In the end, all regulations, rules and guidelines are a compromise that may not please everyone. The goal, at least for me, is to craft a set of guidelines that has the least compromise; but it is a compromise just the same. This is why everyone's input is so important so that everyone has a part in the crafting of the guidelines.

As many of you know, I moderated this year's Cannonball. I would be glad to moderate the '24 edition as well. Once we agree on a compromise on the guidelines, I will get the build page up and ready to go! We've got a lot of good points being made here. A compromise is definitely going to be needed so that we can have enough guidelines for a consistent theme, but open enough to allow for wide scope of options for the build. Taking from some of the suggestions above, the guidelines could be something like this: Body: Mostly stock, with additions/changes made with factory offered parts or from other trim levels (like a spoiler on a base model from a premium trim model). No race-type aerodynamics of today (large wings, diffusers, etc.). -Subtle trim changes may be permitted. -Hoods may changed. Interior: Factory (kit) tub with changes made for safety and/or comfort. -Roll bars are permitted, especially for open-top cars. Full roll cages are not permitted. Suspension: Modern upgrades permitted (i.e.: independent suspension), but no race-type suspension. Brakes: Disc brake conversions permitted, but no race-type braking systems. Systems may be from modern versions of the vehicle or aftermarket street brakes (Wilwood, Brembo, etc.). Street pads. Wheels: Completely open, but should retain factory bolt pattern within the model range (e.g.: 4 lug to 5 five lug, such as on a DC2 Integra GSR to Integra Type R hub). Centerlock wheels permitted only if originally equipped within the model range. -No body or chassis modifications permitted to fit the wheels (tubs, fender flares, etc.). The exception would be if bolt-on flares were offered from the factory on different trim levels (e.g.: Datsun 240Z) Engine and Transmission: Open to production engines. Modifications should be to enhance performance and drivability; not for extreme, peak-performance. Engine swaps are permitted. Ideally, these would be within the same brand. No race engine or transmission swaps (IMSA, NASCAR, etc.). -Forced induction is permitted for increased power, but not for peak-power and torque. Again, drivability should be the focus. Paint/Livery: Fully open. In the end, we must all use our best judgment of what is in the spirit of the theme. After all, we’re all here to have fun, not stress out!

You make a good point here. Furthermore, your definition of using only bolt-on parts may be the objective distinguishing factor between Resto and Pro. This would certainly keep in line with some of the research and comments posted here where the more traditional definition of resto is to make non-destructive modifications that can be easily reversed; i.e., bolt-on mods. I hadn't thought of it that way until you mentioned it, and the difference made more sense. Perhaps, something like this then: A. Classic vehicles from 1903-2004 B. Fully restored, like-new condition C. Modifications limited to bolt-on parts that are easily reversible. Modifications are there to increase the car's ability, functionality, safety and comfort; not for extreme performance, i.e.: track-day specials, etc. 1. More detailed modifications can be present here as well, such as for engine, body, etc. (similar to Bills72sj's post) This is a great brainstorming session here and I think we're close to finding the solution.

This is certainly a good discussion that's taking place. A Motortrend article (link below) basically states that any car that is restored and modified, classifies as a Restomod; regardless of the level of modifications. Therefore, Pro Touring, Pro Street, etc., are all sub-categories of Restomods. From the article: "Now, before all those upgrades took place, the body was restored (remember that word) to appear in like-new condition, which is where we get the term "resto," short for "restored." Once the car takes on parts to improve its performance, handling, and safety, the car has now been "modified." With the car now being restored and modified, it is then referred to as a "restomod."" The article continues: "I understand that we have various muscle car sub-categories such as Pro Street and Pro Touring, but regardless of the number of upgrades and how wild or radical said upgrades are, the cars were restored and modified, which in the spirit of all things said, falls under restomod." (Motortrend article) Adopting this more "open" definition should remove a lot of the concern and debate as to what is or is not a Restomod. Entrants, then, can state their build and whether it is a more conservative "restomod" or one of the sub-categories, such as Pro-Touring so that the vehicle can be viewed accordingly. This more open definition also gives greater scope for varying skill levels of building as there is more to choose from: from lightly modernized classic, to a full high performance build. Finally, the age range of the vehicles should be defined: Classic cars of 20 years or older?

The voting for next year's theme has come to a close. Next year's Cannonball theme will be... Restomods! Thank you to everyone who voted. In the coming days, I'll prepare the main build thread page and post it so that we'll be ready to go on January 1st. This will also allow us time to clear up some detail about what is and is not a restomod so that we have consistent guidelines.

There seems to be some subjectivity when defining what is resto and what is pro. A Motortrend article (found here) has some good guidelines: "Restomod Vs. Pro Touring At A Glance Affordability. A restomod is typically much more affordable than a pro touring machine. Can also be built in stages more easily. Brakes. A restomod has a brake package that's upgraded to modern passenger-car standards. A pro touring machine will have race-caliber brakes. Wheels & Tires. Both restomods and pro tourers have larger-diameter wheels and tires, but a pro touring machine is more likely to sport a more aggressive rubber compound and lighter, more costly wheels. Chassis. A restomod will retain the stock chassis and rely on simple suspension bolt-on parts that don't destroy or alter the factory metal. A serious pro touring machine will have a ground-up chassis. Suspension. The restomod is in the sweet spot for enthusiasts because most vintage chassis types are well supported by the aftermarket. A few choice bolt-ons can close 80 percent of the handling gap with a pro touring car for about a third of the price. Overdrive. Since the goal of both restomods and pro touring cars is ultimately to drive them on the street, an overdrive transmission is the key. A competitive pro touring car will almost always have a manual transmission, though. Safety. As a mostly street-driven vehicle, a restomod will only require the equipment mandated by the Fed in the year of manufacture. A pro touring machine, however, may get significant use on track and other high-speed venues, such as mile racing and open-road racing (Pike's Peak, Silver State Classic, Big Bend, etc. ). This will require significant safety upgrades in the form of rollbars or rollcages, fire suppression systems, fire-resistant attire, helmet, and rollbar padding." (Motortrend article)

I've been researching the difference between Restomod and Pro Touring as I'm not very familiar with the differences. Also, as this may be the theme, it would be a good idea to have a clear definition of what a Restomod is.The best explanation I've found is here: Restomod v. Pro Touring Pro Touring: Extensively modified classics that aim to match or exceed modern car performance, safety, etc; while still retaining the classic looks. Everything is taken to the maximum. Restomod: Similar in basic philosophy, but not as extreme. That is, keeping the car as original as possible while improving it with modern modifications. This is my interpretation, so please correct me if I'm wrong.

Congratulations to everyone who participated! We had fantastic builds that displayed great creativity and quality. The voting poll certainly showed this as is it was a close race from the beginning. And with that, this year's Sea-to-Shining Sea Memorial Trophy Dash comes to a close. I would just like to thank everyone who was part of this year's build; your enthusiasm and motivation certainly showed in the final results. However, don't let your workbenches cool off, as we do it all over again in two weeks!

It's time to announce the 2023 Run-What-You-Brung Cannonball Run winner! Congratulations to Whosurdaddy209 and his outstanding 1968 Corvette!

Just a reminder that voting closes at 11:59pm on December 16th; so, make sure to cast your vote soon!

Hello! I'm glad that you're deciding to join in the Cannonball; it's really a fun group build with many motivated builders. There are some rules to ensure that the build is fair and to create consistency for the theme. The following link will bring you to this year's Cannonball build where you can read the rules and get an idea of how the Run, well, runs: 2023 Cannonball . The rules for next year will be effectively the same with some adjustments for the selected theme. The most important part of the Cannonball, though, is to have fun! There is plenty of room for creativity (which is always encouraged) and finding something of interest to build your way. And, of course, if you ever have any questions, you have a great group that will find you an answer.

Hello all! Since we've narrowed down the most popular themes, I've made a survey that we can run through the 20th of this month. The link below will take you to the survey while the other will take you to the results. As with this year's Run poll, the choices are randomized. Again, please, only one vote per person. 2024 Cannonball Run Theme Poll Live Results

Thank you to everyone who has already voted! As was expected, it's already a close race, particularly between vekasiini's Dodge, Spottedlaurel's Honda and Whosurdaddy's Corvette. If you haven't voted yet, there is still plenty of time. Also, in the event there is a tie for first, we will have a quick runoff between the two to declare the final winner.

Thank you, Mike! I appreciate your feedback...and nomination! Thank you, as well, Anthony! I enjoyed moderating the CBR, which was definitely due to the active participation, motivation and enthusiasm of the group. Everyone here has been supportive of each other and it's been pleasant working with everyone to bring the Run to fruition.

Yes! The link below will make available the live results. Voting Results

Welcome Cannonballers! We've reached the Portofino Inn and it's now time to decide who wins this year's Cannonball! 1. 2023 Cannonball Finished Builds Thread Review this year's completed builds. Then... 2. Vote Here Select your favorite build As I stated in the Finished Builds thread, this is the first time that I am using this survey site, so please let me know if you have any problems. Please, let's keep the voting fair by only voting once. Furthermore, to eliminate any biases, the choices will be randomized for each survey taken. The poll will be open now through December 16th which should give everyone enough time to vote. Thank you!

Thank you for your kind words and the opportunity to moderate this year's run! It's been a great ride. I would also like to thank everyone who has participated in this year's build! I've definitely enjoyed everyone's active and enthusiastic participation as this is what makes the Cannonball Run such a great event; be in it 1:1 or 1:24 scale. I agree that the builds this year are outstanding; both in concept and quality. It's definitely going to be a challenge to choose an overall winner. But, a winner we must choose and that will be coming soon with the polling!

Congratulations to everyone as we have reached the end of this year's Cannonball build phase! Please remember to post your completed builds in the Finished Builds thread by 11:59pm December 2nd (Eastern US time).

Just a reminder of some important dates: January 1st, 12:00am: Official build start of the 2023 Cannonball Run November 14th, 12:00am: Finished build thread opens November 29th, 11:59pm: Last day to enter the CBR build December 1st, 11:59pm: Official build end December 3rd, 12:00am: Polling to elect a winner opens December 16th, 11.59pm: Polling closes December 17th: 2023 Winner announced If you haven't done so already, please post your completed build through tomorrow so that you will be part of the final vote.