Andy Oldenburg

Hi Jason, you did a great job on this build. Never mind if the color isn´t thaaaat correct. You had fun building it !😉🤜🤛

Hi Claude, great idea and even better execution! That´s a rod I would like to see at a meeting in real life! Fine details and beautiful look🤙

Hi Ron, very nice "quicky" rod! cool stance and the chopped roof matches perfectly!

Hi Scott, great build and a very hot color! Looks great on the Starliner, otherwise unfortunately an underrated car and model. Many nice details! Did you fabricate the air filter yourself or is that second market?

Hi Michelle, well done build, I would really like to see more of the details you mention. I have great respect for all that 3D printing stuff and seriously thought about going down that road. Maybe some day..... How many parts does this build have?

Hi David, very clean execution, the color matches perfectly. Like how everything is tone in tone to highlight the De Luxe look. Nice idea too with the exhaust pipes.👍

Hey Alex, very neat job, a classic color choice!👍

Hi Jim, John, Andrew, Mike, J and Brian for checking out my post and your friendly replies!

Hello and thank you to all my responders! Thanks for your friendly support! Best model building wishes, Andy

Hi everybody, nice to be back on the FORUM! I guess just about all of us have built this model before. This AMT/Ertl kit isn´t a highlight of complexity, but a grateful victim for customizing and heavy body work. I refrained from chopping the roof and wanted to keep the silhouette original. But there was plenty of work to do to make it my show rod. I shaved off all of the trim, door handles, roof drip and wipers, because in real life, this would be a show car with no street ambitions. I was out for round surfaces like polished pebbles. Beside the doors I cut out the trunk to accommodate a bench for the "kids". On a dark silver metallic there are 2 layers of metallic green (Molotow rattle can). Before the first layer I taped the shadow stripes on the fenders, hood and roof, making them a lighter green. Top coat is AK clear varnish. The wheels, disc brakes, calipers and the headlight lenses are from Scale Production. I hade to slice the front wheels to make them fit. The trunk is hinged with 1mm brass rods in 2mm styrene tubes. On this build for the first time I attached all hinge parts (trunk, hood and doors) with Tamiya epoxy putty. I was able to bridge gaps easily and everything stayed in place right from the start, without having to tape or stabilize during the hardening process. Unlike epoxy glue, nothing runs, drips or messes up the build. Just take care to rough sand all the sticking surfaces. The cushions are carved from modelling foam and covered with 2mm foam rubber. The door panels are also made of foam rubber placed in a frame of half-round stryrene. The armrest and handles are made of styrene and 1mm aluminum wire. The back of the interior compartment is also covered with foam rubber, with everything spray painted in a light leather toned finish, same as the seats. The floor is flocked in a matching color. I chose the custom dash from the kit and gave it some TLC with printed images for the gauges and the radio. Bare metal foil, wire rings, some toggle switches and a key chain enhance the dash. I added a headliner made of rubber foam also, along with sun visors and the rear mirror. I treated the engine with as much cables and lines as possible. The pulley wheels are deconstructed from the kit part and connected to the block with brass rods, then I wrapped a thin rubber belt around the pulleys. instead of a engine fan, the radiator has a cooling fan system. The brake booster, coil and relay are home made and just about completely fill the engine bay. The exhaust manifolds are from the kit, turned upside down and heat bent into shape. I liked the idea of keeping the exhaust pipes asymmetrical and since I chopped the hood a bit, they look fine creeping out of the sides. The carbs are 3D printed Holleys from Scale Production. The air filters are crafted from grid aluminum and spare covers. Because the rod is dropped, I had to adapt the front and rear suspension by grinding and cutting to lower by about 1 cm. Fuel and brake lines were added, same as shock absorbers. The rear end and the transmission are narrowed and rebuilt to accommodate the fat wheels. Now some images with all the doors open. This build was real fun and I hope you like it. Thanks for watching and if you watch my video, that would make my happy too! https://youtu.be/U-r7jinDEvg

Hi Supernurd, I wish it was "real" and mine! But I get along well having the Moebius version😄

Hi David, thanks for your nice response!

Hi Steve, George, Carl, Ken, Larry, Petterway and Doyle, Many thanks for your kind response! I´m very happy you like my build. Best wishes, Andy

Hi guys, thanks for your friendly response! This hobby means so much to me, and my motivation is just to have fun and make those tiny steps forward in my skills. But well yes, I do enjoy getting the feedback out of our forum community 😊🙏😉 @Emre - Actually the door and trunk cutting was about 2 hours. What takes more time is the finishing with the lips and getting those hinges in a correct place. I am still not completely satisfied with the turnout, but it is getting better. I have a new technique to cut out the shapes. After the stress with scalpels ( they get stuck and are quite dangerous handling) and with a tiny circular saw (gets hot and melts the styrene) I SCRATCH out my doors. I found a small awl in my tool box and sharpened it and i just follow the molded outlines. I takes about 10-15 careful scratches to get through. Additionally I minimize the thickness of the body by grinding or sanding from the inside. Here are some images from my current build. It is worth a try! @Bill - you could be right about the mirror.... But I found images both with and without a mirror. Maybe it was an option to order. But I did refrain from adding seat belts 😂

This is a Moebius kit and while I was building I remembered how I missed the crisp molding and the fine details of this manufacturer. Everything fits perfectly and the parts have more texture and sharpness than many AMT kits. This 300 is a fine example. The Chrysler 300 was a muscle car long before the term was established. Real power and a handling for fast driving, it wasn´t your average family car. Even the design looked fast and ahead of it´s time. Offered only in black, white and red, my choice for my build was easy. My goal was to get as close to a sales room mint stock look as possible. The red body is rattle can Montana Gold label S3000, finished with 2 layers of AK clear varnish. The BMF and the decals are protected under the final coating. I had to do some sanding on the bumpers because they had some molding issues. Instead of brush painting the Molotow chrome, this time I airbrushed the big parts with Molotow liquid chrome. After 4 days of drying they received an finish with AK clear too. I didn´t use much second market items this time. Actually only the door handles and the windshield wipers. The kit comes without a rear view mirror, so I fabricated it from styrene and a 8mm brass rod. I opened and hinged the doors and the trunk and equipped the door panels with hidden magnets. The second magnets are hidden in the front bench. The dash is enhanced with wire gauge rings and tiny toggle switches. The kit shift and winker levers were replaced with thinner home made wire levers. Plus the parking brake. The engine and the bay received a bunch of added details like extra wiring, hoses and lines. The radiator front is covered with metal mesh. The air filter cover and the valve covers are pimped with etched metal hex nuts. This is the first time I have equipped a model with lighting. It did add some extra time because I needed a little consulting. But fortunately I have an electronics shop in town and I could buy my stuff there. They only have 3mm LEDs though, so I made the best of it. In the meantime I have sourced 1,2mm LEDs, so the next build with lighting will give me some more options. Especially for the interior lighting. The battery is hidden in the gas tank, which I can open if the battery needs to be exchanged. I was able to hide all the wires and the lines to the front are the "brake and fuel" lines on the undercarriage. I hope you like my build and would be happy if you watch the video on YouTube: https://youtu.be/NeDH_tsS5Yg Thank your for watching and best wishes!