kensar

Thanks for the great comments, everyone. I thought this subject was worthy of a model build. I did enjoy it.

Nice work! Spark plug boots look great.

I have posted in the 'under glass' section. Link to the completed posting:

In the early 1920s, a conversion kit was available to convert the Ford Model T into a snowmobile. The kit cost about as much as the car itself and was sold in the New England area, mostly to postal workers, doctors, firemen, etc., people that had to get out when the weather was bad. I was interested in making a model of these machines a few years ago. I started with an AMT Model T but the project stalled soon after starting as I had no way to make the tracks. Recently, I got into CAD design and 3D printing, so this project became feasible. I acquired a ICM Model T Roadster, which was a better kit, but of an older Model T. The build thread is here: Photographing this model was difficult due to it being gloss black with white tires and silver tracks. The camera just doesn't have the latitude, but here are the pictures. I hope you find this as interesting a subject as I do. Thanks for looking in.

Thanks for all the great comments everyone. A snowmobile can't help but be a 'cool' subject. Pierre - I'm impressed with your brush painting. Using an airbrush does have some options - all the black paint is Tamiya gloss black lacquer. For a gloss finish, put it on wet and heavy. For a more matt finish with some texture, don't thin it so much. I have finished this model now. I was able to use the front ski parts I made earlier, so things went faster than I anticipated. I'll post in the 'Under glass' section soon. I also plan to make a snowy display base for it. Overall this was a very enjoyable project that progressed quickly.

I came across these vehicles several years ago and was immediately interested in making a model of one. Scant little info on them but the conversion of the Model T really wasn't that complicated. The conversion kit for the real cars was sold through some Ford dealers and cost about as much as the car itself. I think most kits were sold in the New England area. I had started the model project a couple years ago using a AMT model T but got stalled when I didn't have a way to make the tracks. Recently, I took the plunge into CAD design and 3D printing (6 weeks ago), which made this project feasible. I also acquired the ICM Model T Roadster, which is much better than the AMT Model T, although it is of an older Model T. Now I have made the tracks and I'm posting now that the big hurdle has been overcome. First, lengthened the frame and cut off the fenders. Cut off the Roadster trunk. Next, scratchbuilt the added axle. Then got to work on the standard kit parts. Engine and body. Then, the interior bits - not much to this thing. Definitely a simple car. More scratchbuilding was next. Started with the front skis, but these will likely need to be altered due to the ride height increasing when the tracks were fitted. The truck bed was next. Its design reflects earlier designs without the metal fenders. Some mockups. No tailgate on this one. Don't want to mess with the 'aerodynamics'. Ready for some tracks now. The tracks are the first item I have taken through the whole process from design to printing. They are linked together with loops of soft wire, all put together by hand. At this point, I have painted the tracks and installed them on the wheels. I'm working on the tensioning struts that are under the vehicle. Then a few more details to be added, which I have left off until near the end of the build so I wouldn't be knocking them off constantly. Hope this subject is interesting to you as it is to me.

I'm glad to see one of these being built. This kit was on my short list to get many years ago but I never did.

Excellent work, Pierre. Nice to see the model becoming more accurate.

An oil tank would be my guess. The round part on the top would be the pump and return lines are on the other side.

Looks like one I had when I was a kid. Most fun toy I ever had.

Both Pierre and I lowered the rear end about 1mm on our models. If you are going to do surgery on the rear suspension, you might consider doing that also. The way the rear hubs are mounted, it's easy. I would also recommend fitting the hood to the body before proceeding much further. My hood required quite a bit of bending to get it to fit right. At 43 degrees, the humidity is pretty low. Another factor in getting a good primer coating.

Nice clean scratching, Pierre. Minimal collateral damage on the block - probably will be hard to see in the final product.

Fill out the paperwork and the registration people will help you decide what class to put the models in. Most of the 'rules' define what kind of model goes in what class. This will also designate what table to display the model on. Most models are simply put on the table with the identifying slip of paper under it. This leaves room for other models, which can be needed if a table is full of models already. Some models are displayed with small bases, as well. Just be aware of how much room you are taking to be considerate of other modelers that also want to display. Other models, like dioramas, are on large bases and they usually have their own table. Usually, the builder's name is not displayed in order to discourage judging bias, but this does happen occasionally. The next task for you is to walk around and check out the other models and be in awe. After that, a trip to the vendor's tables is in order because you can't go home with any money. At the end of the show, the awards are announced and everyone packs up. You other guys can chime in if I left something out.

Definitely replace the wheels. The under hood area can be made to look decent with a little scratching. I overcame the red plastic with lots of Tamiya white primer!

Thanks for the nice comments, everyone. I'm glad to finally have it off my shelf of delay.

A nice string of builds there, Pierre. I think the yellow SWB stands out to me as the most eye catching. I thoroughly enjoy your build threads where you discuss the particular challenges of the builds and show your approach to overcoming them. And it blows my mind that you do all the painting with a hairy stick! I made a similar list of models completed this year - 6 planes, 4 cars, and one tank! Looking forward to seeing more of your work in the coming year. Ken Mouton

Nice work, Mark. One day you're gonna finish this thing! 😄

This is a primary training glider that most of the WW2 Luftwaffe pilots had some time in. This Special Hobby kit was quite challenging due to the small and fragile parts. I have scratchbuilt a number of details for a better result. Must have been a breezy ride in one of these!

A striking model, Pierre. It's nice when an uncomplicated build turns out to be a looker. The decals don't look uncomplicated, though.

A fantastic looking build! Very clean with sharp detail.

Exceptionally nice model, Chris. Looks very real.

An outstanding model, Pierre, and a cool looking subject. Your modifications definitely upgraded the appearance. 👍

Thanks, Ulf. The paint is a mixture of white and chrome yellow Tamiya spray paints that were decanted and applied with an airbrush. Then polished out with no clearcoat. Some light weathering was applied on the bottom and under the hood. This is pastel chalk mixture.

I have completed this build and put it in the 'Under Glass' section:

This is the relatively new Revell Jaguar XKE depicting a series 1 car. The kit was somewhat disappointing with many sink marks and a couple of short shot sprues. Fortunately, I had two kits to draw upon. I have also enhanced the kit with some scratchbuilt items. Most details of the real car were in the kit, but many were poorly rendered and not very sharp. The decal sheet is very complete and exceptionally nice, high resolution printing and in-register. The wheels are aftermarket 3D prints from Ukranian Scale Car Production and are exceptionally nice.