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kensar

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Everything posted by kensar

  1. It's clearly a 3D print. Did Phil design and print or just print?
  2. Vinny, I didn't record all the paints I used as there are a lot of them, but I do know I used Tamiya TS-17 Gloss Aluminum for the main body color, with TS-53 Deep Metallic Blue for the stripe. The wheels are gloss black. I believe the interior blue is TS-15 Blue. Other colors are from Alclad, AK Interactive, and Testors. All paints were airbrushed.
  3. I don't have any other sailplane files - I'm just getting started in designing and I'm interested in 'classic' sailplanes (approx 1945 - 1970 era). There is a designer on 3DCults named 3DDAVEJ who has several modern ships (glass slippers), including a DG-100 and DG-500. I haven't found any websites or forums that feature static models of sailplanes, only RC. Know of any?
  4. This is my first complete model design using Fusion 360. I will 3D print it at some point in the near future when I have a few designs to print. It is a Schreder HP-14 sailplane that was Richard Schreder's first design as a homebuilt kit. Schreder won 3 national soaring championships and represented the US in multiple world soaring championships. This design was also built by Slingsby in the UK (but only 3 examples before the factory burned down). In addition to the original V tail, Slingsby also designed their own V tail and a cruciform tail design, and other builders made T tail versions. This will be the 12th and 13th model in my collection of 1/48 sailplanes.
  5. Definitely looks like a repro to me, with some bits from a real one.
  6. As for color schemes, I think a black chassis and fenders with another color body (silver, dark red, light yellow, for example) would represent a traditional or classic color scheme. The darker colors giving a more conservative or subdued vibe with a lighter color giving a more outspoken or racier vibe. What vibe do want to convey?
  7. A4 did an excellent job on his Jag. If you decide to open the louvers - I wish you all the luck 🤞. I tried it on my Jag with a 0.25mm wide cutting tool (Tamiya panel line tool) and didn't like where it was going - the cuts still appeared to be too wide, so I decided against going further. I used oil paint to darken the recesses.
  8. A4 did the Heller Jag - just sayin Just about all the pics you will find are of restored cars, so finding pics of an original for reference will be difficult (Jay Leno claims to have an original unrestored Jag XKE, so you may want to look for the video on YouTube).
  9. I had a good time at the show. Met TarheelRick also. This was the first time this venue was used and I hope some improvements can be implemented for next year's show. The club putting on the show has already secured the venue for next year. I saw Topher's builds - very nice. I'm more of a road race guy but unusual subjects catch my eye - like my Ford Model T snowmobile. Looking forward to next year's show.
  10. Does anyone have a flyer or more info on this Salisbury show?
  11. Excellent work on the brake drums!
  12. Looking good with some color on it!
  13. Thanks for the great comments, everyone. I thought this subject was worthy of a model build. I did enjoy it.
  14. Nice work! Spark plug boots look great.
  15. I have posted in the 'under glass' section. Link to the completed posting:
  16. In the early 1920s, a conversion kit was available to convert the Ford Model T into a snowmobile. The kit cost about as much as the car itself and was sold in the New England area, mostly to postal workers, doctors, firemen, etc., people that had to get out when the weather was bad. I was interested in making a model of these machines a few years ago. I started with an AMT Model T but the project stalled soon after starting as I had no way to make the tracks. Recently, I got into CAD design and 3D printing, so this project became feasible. I acquired a ICM Model T Roadster, which was a better kit, but of an older Model T. The build thread is here: Photographing this model was difficult due to it being gloss black with white tires and silver tracks. The camera just doesn't have the latitude, but here are the pictures. I hope you find this as interesting a subject as I do. Thanks for looking in.
  17. Thanks for all the great comments everyone. A snowmobile can't help but be a 'cool' subject. Pierre - I'm impressed with your brush painting. Using an airbrush does have some options - all the black paint is Tamiya gloss black lacquer. For a gloss finish, put it on wet and heavy. For a more matt finish with some texture, don't thin it so much. I have finished this model now. I was able to use the front ski parts I made earlier, so things went faster than I anticipated. I'll post in the 'Under glass' section soon. I also plan to make a snowy display base for it. Overall this was a very enjoyable project that progressed quickly.
  18. I came across these vehicles several years ago and was immediately interested in making a model of one. Scant little info on them but the conversion of the Model T really wasn't that complicated. The conversion kit for the real cars was sold through some Ford dealers and cost about as much as the car itself. I think most kits were sold in the New England area. I had started the model project a couple years ago using a AMT model T but got stalled when I didn't have a way to make the tracks. Recently, I took the plunge into CAD design and 3D printing (6 weeks ago), which made this project feasible. I also acquired the ICM Model T Roadster, which is much better than the AMT Model T, although it is of an older Model T. Now I have made the tracks and I'm posting now that the big hurdle has been overcome. First, lengthened the frame and cut off the fenders. Cut off the Roadster trunk. Next, scratchbuilt the added axle. Then got to work on the standard kit parts. Engine and body. Then, the interior bits - not much to this thing. Definitely a simple car. More scratchbuilding was next. Started with the front skis, but these will likely need to be altered due to the ride height increasing when the tracks were fitted. The truck bed was next. Its design reflects earlier designs without the metal fenders. Some mockups. No tailgate on this one. Don't want to mess with the 'aerodynamics'. Ready for some tracks now. The tracks are the first item I have taken through the whole process from design to printing. They are linked together with loops of soft wire, all put together by hand. At this point, I have painted the tracks and installed them on the wheels. I'm working on the tensioning struts that are under the vehicle. Then a few more details to be added, which I have left off until near the end of the build so I wouldn't be knocking them off constantly. Hope this subject is interesting to you as it is to me.
  19. I'm glad to see one of these being built. This kit was on my short list to get many years ago but I never did.
  20. Excellent work, Pierre. Nice to see the model becoming more accurate.
  21. An oil tank would be my guess. The round part on the top would be the pump and return lines are on the other side.
  22. Looks like one I had when I was a kid. Most fun toy I ever had.
  23. Both Pierre and I lowered the rear end about 1mm on our models. If you are going to do surgery on the rear suspension, you might consider doing that also. The way the rear hubs are mounted, it's easy. I would also recommend fitting the hood to the body before proceeding much further. My hood required quite a bit of bending to get it to fit right. At 43 degrees, the humidity is pretty low. Another factor in getting a good primer coating.
  24. Nice clean scratching, Pierre. Minimal collateral damage on the block - probably will be hard to see in the final product.
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