kensar

NIce work. I've always believed masking is an art in itself.

Thanks Mike and Mark. I just returned from a two week out of town trip. I'm now posting where things are with this project. I'm also working on 3D printing new turbo blow off valve actuating mechanisms, since these are very visually prominent (also working on designing the next 3D project). Here is the air box, not yet completed and just placed into position. I managed to find some 'Mercedes Benz' decals similar to what the actual car had. I've added most of the interior details now. I've lost a bit of momentum on this since starting my next 3D print design, but things will continue to get done. Thanks to all that have commented and looked in on this.

A short update. I've been working on the very tedious engine compartment details using wires and small tubing. This vehicle has a lot going on back here.

Hope your clearcoating works well. Are you having the extremely low humidity weather there?

Super looking model, Pierre. Excellent paint job!

If they are closing all the stores, why are they filing chapter 11 instead of chapter 13?

Nice details!

Kind of a pedestrian looking car, but the Carrera Panamericana touch will dress it up. 👍

I decided to remake the rear shock absorbers a little more accurate according to my reference pics.

Thanks for commenting Atin and Steve. I just wish the rivet tool rivets were more realistic. It was made for a smaller scale than 1/24.

I have the interior done but all the components will be installed later when more of the engine is done. Mockup: There are a couple more details to be added - in good time.

Thanks for the kind comments, gents.

I finished the brake ducts by coating with Micro Krystal Clear then painted black and added straps. Using heat shrink tubing would have been far too stiff to make the bends needed. I will continue on with the interior, as I have made the pedals and will add some aluminum panels and other details. Currently in the process of making another shifter. I didn't put the master cylinders behind the pedals as I don't think they will be visible anyway. The reference pictures I'm using are of a 1989 chassis that never raced. I understand the LeMans cars were 1988 chassis and I could not find any pictures of the LeMans race interior configuration. Most pictures are of WSC race configurations.

Superb work all around, Charlie. I'm glad to hear you are getting over the injury.

Haven't built a Group C car in forever and have never made this one. The Tamiya Sauber Mercedes C9 from 1989, the LeMans winner. The molds are starting to show their age, with minor flash on several parts. The kit is very nice, including PE parts, window masks, and seatbelt material. I will be adding some detail as I go along, starting with the front wheel wells - adding coolant pipes and brake ductwork, along with the front wall of the foot box. Adding some rivet detail in the form of aluminum HVAC tape embossed with a rivet tool. The brake ductwork is just wound wire at this time. I needed to figure out how to attach the ducts to the hubs. I plan to brush on some canopy glue or Micro Crystal Clear to fill in between the wire coils. I'll probably add some pedals too. How can you drive a car with no gas pedal?

The surface tension of pure water is very high - the water molecules want to stick together. This is why water beads up on surfaces with low surface tension (like the metal strainer). Oil, on the on the other hand has very low surface tension, so it runs easily and wicks into cracks easily. Mixing a surfactant (soap or certain alcohols, for example) into water lowers its surface tension and reduces its tendency to bead up. FYI - I never shake up my paints just to avoid getting particles in the paint - only stir them.

This is the first design I created in Fusion 360 and then 3D printed. This car is from the 1980s and is one of my favorite Lambos. It's not a 100% accurate model but it's not a bad result for my first design effort and first serious 3D printing. I think the tires are a little too high in profile, but have accurate dimensions according to their specfications. Paint is from Model Car World with Krylon clearcoat.

The canopy was made from a sheet of PETG clear sheet. A canopy mold was made with the 3D print. The PETG sheet was heated with a hot air gun and then smash molded over the canopy mold.

Great result and nice weathering. 👍

Hi Bill. Normally I would not post such an extensive response, but I think you will find the info useful. If you have an interest in WW1 aircraft, I highly recommend the site: ww1aircraftmodels.com This site has probably the most information on WW1 aircraft models and model making than you will find anywhere else, in all scales. There are a few scratchbuilders there as well, so there is a wealth of info on scratchbuilding. I also have an interest in WW1 aircraft and have built a few scratchbuilds in 1/32 scale. I chose this scale because one can get 3D printed machine guns and engines from aftermarket sources. Here are some of my scratchbuilds: Thomas Morse S4C Fokker V23 prototype Hanriot HD2 Avro 505 There are quite a few 1/32, 1/48, and 1/72 WW1 aircraft models available. The website I mentioned above is a good place to explore these options.

Just finished this Schreder HP14 sailplane. This was the first completed model I designed and 3D printed. It is the T tail version which is not the original V tail design (I have that on the bench). This is the first design Richard Schreder made and sold as a homebuilt kit. He won the US soaring championship in one in the early 1960s. This is the 12th subject in my collection of 1/48 sailplanes.

Nice result from all the work! Roden makes a 1 1/2 strutter in 1/32 scale. My build:

I did sand the entire body to get a smooth finish, but the resin is pretty soft and the sanding went fast. I primed with Tamiya primer, then used Model Car World Early Ferrari Red and finally clearcoated with Krylon clear. Assembled interior. The carpet was depicted with baking soda sprinkled onto white glue, then painted.

Some subassemblies done and in progress. Mockup of the interior. Wheels. for some reason, the rear lug nuts are black and the front ones are silver. Dashboard.

Careful what you ask for, Pierre. I am finding the print quality of this body is about equal to a mediocre resin kit requiring a lot of work to get parts fitted and bring it up to my standards. It will turn out nice, though. I am learning a lot about the design software and printing process, which is the main focus of this build.