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  1. Yes, real Model Ts, not hot rods with modern running gear, the one in the videos is unrestored. Because they were warmed up, didn't learn what it takes to get one started from scratch, such as messing with the carb, flicking the switch and checking the amp meter, retarding the timing, pulling the choke, and whatever else depending on how the car was equipped. The first ones didn't even have batteries, some of these cars did have electric starters. The hardest thing to learn, the right foot is the brake, the left foot is used differently than a regular clutch. The hand brake does more than work for parking, it allows the left pedal to go into high gear. The lever on the right of the steering wheel is the gas, left lever does ignition advance/retard. There is a center pedal for engaging reverse. I watched a bunch of other guys learning before I went, so I knew the first steps, but had to learn on the fly what else to do. We had the Prescott Rodeo grounds to drive around. For the video of me driving, the owner stood on the running board. 😲 It was the most fun I had with the club. I also drove the depot hack, owned by a charter member. The PAAC has a clubhouse. My Blue Cloud next to a beautiful older Chevy pickup.
  2. While visiting Vancouver, I spotted a 1915 Model T parked on a street in the Steveston area of Richmond, BC.
  3. Finished up today. Built this like I thought an entrant for The Race of Gentlemen would look. Used the excellent ICM kit and left off everything that didn't make it go faster. I painted the white tires but it really doesn't want to stick to the vinyl, I figure a race car would not have original tires. Comments welcome and thanks for looking.
  4. I built this over my Christmas vacation time, finishing it up this morning. The original plan was to get both cars in the 2 in 1 kit finished, building a hot rod coupe and stock roadster pickup straight from the box. After looking everything over, I decided to go this way with the coupe, I will modify the stock roadster into a 60's era street rod with an Olds V8 from the AMT '40 Sedan. More on that as it progresses, but it will be built similarly, without wiring, etc.
  5. My latest completion. These ICM kits are not for the faint of heart, but they have great details and scale appearance. I've had this one on the bench since January and finally got all the little brass bits attached. Just don't breathe on it too hard! Comments welcome, thanks for looking.
  6. Lots of great blog posts regarding Model T related hot rods, customs, parts manufacturers, history, etc.: https://www.tbucketplans.com/
  7. Nice quick build for the winter months. The tracks are lego chain link.
  8. Hello everyone. I finished up ICM's 1911 Ford Touring car. It is a great kit that has great details but also has its few flaws. The paint is Tamiya lacquer and the model is out of the box. Since you're only able to build the model with the top up, I used the folded roof from the AMT T kit to replicate the roof so the interior is able to be seen better. Here is the completed car:
  9. Arrived today direct from the Ukraine. ICM is sure getting its moneys worth from this tool. Same white tires as in other issues, no plating on the "brass" tree. I think I'll try to build it without fenders like a proper speedster.
  10. Just a stock AMT T. Nothing special i just added some wood grain to the wheels and some brass details to break up the black paint.
  11. I am going to call it now, but I think the next big phase will be 1970's Resto Rods and Fad T's. I have seen a bunch of 1970's rod and custom barn finds show up in popular magazines and on Facebook. I have bee following the large scale Carl Casper Phone booth T on this site and the late 60's and early seventies are getting a lot of attention. I dug out of my stash my Tognotti King T and did some research that a lot of the Fad T's were based on the 1915 glass body. The King T is a supposedly stock bodied 1915 T... Wit a little bit of mold making magic I made the cab and turtle deck. I then proceeded to chop up the body to follow the famous Leg Show T. I cut behind the doors straight down. I cut the top of the body off front of the cut. I removed an additional 6 scale inches and re glued the cowl on. I made a template of the new curved sides and matched the back to the new, lower body sides. I shot a picture of a casting of the Tognotti T and my work. I am glad it took the pictures. This showed me two things, firstly the body sides were spreading out which I quickly straightened out. The second thing I noticed was the body leading edge sloped upward on the passenger side. Both the original body and my project body had it so i adjusted the body to even things out. I had to remove the body reveals and replace all of them.
  12. Thought I'd make this AMT '25 T my first build on MCM. Started it about a month ago....it's been progressing slowly, so I think I'll update with a couple photos every couple days until it's caught up to the present day. I wanted a quick project with less scratchbuilding and finicky detailing than some of the other projects I've started over the last couple years. It's turned out to be more involved than initially planned, but will still be a relatively simple build with a minimal interior and not much in the way of wiring. It combines parts from the double T (body, frame), the AMT '34 ford street rod (rear suspension), and the AMT Phantom Vicky (front suspension, engine, bench seat). Wheels and tires are cut down from the AMT "Boyd's" '32 Ford 5-window. Brakes are corvette C4 from the junk pile. Intake bells are craft grommets. Exhaust is from the Revell 427 Ford parts pack.
  13. Hi ... I had these days the first "outing" with my models, in a classic car meeting in town. Was funny to see the people's reactions on the wooden scaled replicas Nice was also to meet a guy who restored a Ford Runabout of 1924 ... wonderful car. But here a couple of photos of my Tin Lizzy (which has nothing of "Tin" ), a Ford Model T Touring from 1908 ... Some burned parts, which I need to substitute, but still they give a kind of character to the seats ...
  14. Yesterday I played around with a NIKON D7000 ... I had a lot of fun. Some of my (simplier) previous works on Model T's
  15. Hey guys. I saw this photo of a pink T bucket online and somehow was inspired by it to build something similar. I got the tall T double kit and built this roadster. It has a few modifications. I've seen so many T bucket rods that I thought were too long and too tall, so I took a scale foot out of the kit frame, and chopped the top and windshield 3/16". I dropped in a Buick V6, which fits the shorter frame nicely. I also shortened the turtledeck about 3/16" to complete the re-proportioning process. I am pleased with the results. Wheels are 40 Ford steelies with trim rings and parts box dog dishes. Paint is Krylon with Testors clear gloss pearl overcoat. The story is that a guy's wife wanted a hot rod in pink, so her hubby made this for her - what a guy! Comments welcome! This was my inspiration: Here's the model at my garage diorama. Of course, the lady in pink is the owner!
  16. A simple kit but a lot of fun. Painted with Model Master metallic black & flame red. Roof was sprayed with Dullcoat & tires & wheels are from parts box. Interior is detailed & engine is wired.
  17. Browsing around Tumblr, I stumbled upon this concept by John Frye: It looked more like a coupe with the roof removed than the standard roadster body, so I sourced a Chopped AMT body, and got to chopping: Wheel/tire assemblies were pilfered from a 1:32 scale Airfix omnibus kit, as were the fenders. An emory board contoured the tires to look more pneumatic. And after I sprayed them black, I removed the paint from the tires to reveal their original light gray color. Powerplant will be a stock-ish Model A banger, though I intend to display this one as a curbside. I teched it up a bit in the front, opting for IFS, just because I wanted it to represent a modern take on a very vintage look. That's not set in stone, though. With the right drop axle, I could build a new frame pretty quickly.
  18. After I finished my '40 Ford Roadster Pickup based on a Tim Boyd article, I was drawn to one of Tim's Street Rodder articles and making a then modern Street Rod out of the '70's vintage Revell Buttera kit. I built the inaccurate '34 3 Window by Revell and I loved the chassis. I completed this model during my summer break between May and June before I started summer classes. This model was not as heavily modified as my '40 Ford Roadster Pickup but I did do far more plumbing on this model than I ever did before. The colors I used were Krylon Popsicle Orange (OSHA Safety Orange), Model Master Ivory, Tamiya transparent Orange, Pactra Gold and Revell Metal colors in Humbrol pots and a few other odds and ends colors. The theme I chose was to make the car an Orange Creamsicle, a cool car, with a tangy orange outside and a creamy cool interior. Ah, the early '90's with all of the bright colors drilled into a young impressionable mind... I chopped the top, but unlike the article I retained the reverse angle to the sides - Tim made more of a vertical formal side panel to the roof. I stole the intake from an MPC Camaro with injectors, '36 Ford Headlights, front tires from some o;d gasser or dragster from my parts box, the turn signals and the rear taillights are from a sprue of Big Rig Trailer lights trimmed down. I used Detail Master flexible fan and used a Detail Master interior detailing kit for the speakers and the door handles. The dash was scratch built and an epoxy casting was made off of another Rod kit for the cluster. I wired the engine, added break and fuel lines to the chassis, hoses for the air conditioner and radiator. My challenges was the chopped top and molded windshield, wiring and photo-etch. I broke with the instructions flow and built the motor and wired it up and set it into the chassis to later find out how hard it is to get the fenders over the engine. The instructions show that you put the heads on after the fenders are installed, Doh! I did a lot of cussing that afternoon in the basement and my Mom yelling at me for swearing so much. I got it together and I was pleased with it and I got a shinier body after I had polished the Krylon with Automotive buffing compound (the days before Micro Mesh polishing systems). Looking back and trying to keep it together has been quite a challenge as well. The Buttera chassis is beautiful and has pose-able front wheels. The A arms keep on opening up and the front wheels pop out, various phot etch bits fall off and the rear wheels fall off and break off of the mounts. The kit was designed to originally have 2 part plastic tires and small rimmed wire wheels. By the late '80's new vinyl tires and bigger rims were a part of the kit and were heavier and then break I think I will finally have to pin the rear wheels on and glue the wheels in place. Once again thank you Tim for making interesting projects to inspire builders. After I did this model I was brow beated by a modeling friend to quit following model magazine articles and make my own rods and customs. My friend Jeff had built many models kit bashed his own way but my technique was still more advanced than his. My confidence was bolster by doing these two conversions and I took up his challenge. The model I built the following year tested by kit bashing skills and I used my first resin body as well. P.S. Yes, I was trying to get a little artsy with the composition of the photos...
  19. I have a hard time resisting the urge to buy kits that I built as a kid. The AMT double T kit is one of them. I saw this one on a vendors table recently and had to grab it. Unfortunately, it only had the parts for the stock Model T. That's cool. I'll build it. This will be the pickup version and will also include a wrecker boom. Here's a mock up of the basic parts: Like many other kits, the rear axle is open on the top. On most models however, the axle is tight up against the underside of the car, so you'd never notice. On a Model T, the top of the axle is highly visible. Some plastic tube was cut in half and used to cover up the gap. Some scraps were also added on the top of the differential housing and used to fill in the gaps in the brake backing plates. The axle is not done yet, but starting to look better. Since this truck will support a wrecker boom, I scratch built some heavy duty tires using slices of PVC. I'm using basswood for the bed floor. The wood is stained with Minwax Provincial # 211. This will eventually get a clear coat. You don't usually see the doors opened up on the Model T roadster body. They're so small. The real Model T's I've seen have a passenger side door only. This one will have that door opened up. With such a small door, the challenge will be to make hinges small enough to look in scale. These will be my smallest hinges yet.
  20. Victoria & Dawn are busy checking out this "T" street rod that the shop just got in.
  21. i am trying to post a link to my latest"on the workbench"project,a 1/25th scale 1925 Ford model TT wrecker.The link is in the topic title.
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