kensar

Looks like you may get closer cutting into the roof at the top of the windows more. Don't know if you want to go that route, though, as it probably means altering or replacing the glass parts.

Pierre - do I detect some sarcasm? ? Clearly this was a purpose built race car with this spartan interior. The aluminum sheet I used is 0.005" thick and was wet sanded with 600 grit sandpaper, giving this duller than original finish. Thanks for stopping by, everyone.

Latest progress - completed the interior - mostly from aluminum and styrene sheet. Vacuum formed the seatbacks and made a cushion from Milliput. Next significant detail is the windshield.

Working on the interior now Got the wheels on. Here are a couple of interior panels and drive shaft tunnel, the transmission that is visible in the cockpit, and some frame structure that goes around the rear axle.

Thanks very much, Pierre, but I m not claiming 100% scratch built due to the parts snagged from the Revell XKSS kit and USCP. Hope your USCP parts get here soon. My order was delayed by about a week due to Russian missle attacks knocking out their electrical power.

After final sanding and some body surface details added (louvers), I have completed the main painting. I couldn't find the exact font for the numbers but it's the closest I could find. The rough texture of the Renshape foam made the panel lines a bit uneven. Next I'll be focusing on the interior and mounting the wheels.

Your mods do improve the look of the roof lines. Very nice paint results, too. Based on my experience with USCP, you won't be disappointed with their wheels.

That engine is a sculpture in styrene!

More progress. I have coated the body with fiberglass resin. Wheel 'modules' Lots of sanding to do. Initial mock-ups. I think it's going to work.

Hi Pierre, These cuts were made mostly by hand with a Dremel moto tool with various grinding wheels and cutting bits. For some cuts, I used a Dremel drill press to hold the moto tool in place at a certain depth while I moved the body around under it. The fact that this Renshape material cuts very easily makes this feasible, but one does have to be very careful not to cut too much away with an unintentional movement of the hand!

The underside cuts have gotten complicated. I'm at the point where I think I need to coat the body and install the chassis framework before building up the interior. Tests with epoxy resin are looking very positive.

Those that did a backcast, what was the master? a slot body or a diecast? Gary - your casting looks like a good shape for the Lister. I am wondering if my fenders are not shaped right, but I find it's hard to tell in the raw Renshape surface. I my opinion, the Revell XKSS engine and chassis sprues are in terrible shape. Lots of flash and sink marks and some parts are unrecognizable because the detail is so bad. No comparison to the new tool sprues for the E type that is in the same box. The body sprues for the XKSS are in pretty good shape. As mentioned, I am using the XKSS frame parts to hold the wheels on, although they are not correct for the Lister.

I started this project a couple weeks ago while still working on the GT40. I think this is a cool old school subject and I don't think there have been any 1/24 kits of it - the Lister Knobbly Jaguar. The prototype Knobbly was ordered by the Ecurie Ecosse team, but somehow was sold to Briggs Cunningham who brought it to the US. It was driven to the 1958 and 1959 SCCA titles by Walt Hansgen, so it has a winning pedigree. I will be depicting the prototype Lister Knobbly. I have noticed that subsequent built Knobblys are different in a few details. The Knobbly had a Jaguar D type XK engine and shares many details with the D type. I believe Lister struck a deal with Jaguar after its factory burned down, leaving them with engines but no chassis to put them in until the XKSS was developed. I am taking advantage of this similarity by using parts from a Revell XKSS kit. I acquired Revell's 100th anniversary of Jaguar kit that has the E type new tool and the XKSS kit, whose molds are probably 100 years old also. They are pretty bad, but these parts will be going under the car and won't be very visible. I sourced wheels from Ukranian Scale Car Production, which are superb. For the first time, I will be using Renshape for the body. Renshape is a rigid high density polyurethane foam which is ungodly expensive. I bought a couple of pieces of it off evilbay many years ago and its been sitting around in my shop forever. The pieces I had were only about 1/2 thick, so I glued layers together to get adequate thickness for the body. This stuff sands very easily. Having a foam structure means it will have to be coated with something to get a hard smooth surface. I am thinking epoxy fiberglass resin. First, I need to make the body. The pictures below show the progression of the project. I used Perfect Plastic Putty to build back up areas that I sanded too much or somehow needed material to be put back on. I really don't like this putty because it does not dry hard, but I will be coating the body with something to get a hard surface anyway. Jaguar XKSS kit parts After many hours of sanding 'fun' I am at this point. Still need to work out some interferences with the rear suspension intruding into the cockpit. Welcome to the grind!

Very cool subject and a great looking model. Nice paint and finish.

This is progressing nicely - making the parts yourself. Question - if you need to remove the air cleaner for hood clearance, will you have clearance for the distributor?

Thank you, everyone for the great comments and thanks to those that followed this and left encouraging comments and reactions (esp. Mark and Pierre) - they really help keep the motivation and enthusiasm going. And special thanks to Hakan (Force) and Rex (Vamach1) and Randy D who provided detailed info on actual GT40s for reference. Now - on to the next project - to be revealed soon.

Detail shots: A bit of an artsy photo: more detail: Hope you enjoy the pictures. Unfortunately absolutely none of the light weathering I applied shows up in the photos, which is a real shame because I think it really adds to a realistic appearance. Link to the build thread: https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/190401-trumpeter-ford-gt40-with-my-twists/#comments

I have completed this project and posting pictures here. I am not depicting any particular GT40, but rather how I would like to see one, with some changes to the exterior, primarily. I think the color scheme works well with an overall darker theme, with a few contrasting details. The body shape is good, but I think the rear fender line should be more curved. Not sure about the length of the nose, but I believe the Mk.II has a longer nose than the Mk.I. Anyway, the kit has shortcomings far too numerous to list. The plumbing is all wrong. I have attempted to correct this and at least portray a vehicle that would work. Also added numerous details like a distributor. So, enough rambling and on to the pictures: I am including some detail shots in the next post.

Very well done. Looks like you have some machine tools (lathe, mill)?

Very nice results on both of these 962s. The paint and finish looks very good.

Last in-progress picture. Detailing on the front clip. I have completed this project now and will post pics in the under glass thread soon with a link to it below. Thanks to all that followed along and commented. Hope it was worth it to you. Link to completed thread: https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/193788-112-trumpeter-gt40-kensar-style/ Best Regards, Ken

A small update. I have painted the front clip. and the tire markings were painted on using a stencil.

Hi Mark, thanks for looking in. The aluminum paint is Tamiya TS-17 Gloss Aluminum. I like this paint because it can be sprayed without the grainy look most silver paints give. I decanted the spray paint into a jar and shot it through my airbrush, which gives more control over how much paint is being sprayed. Too much paint gives the grainy look. The GT40 MkII has two air scoops on each side of the engine cover. The upper one splits into two - one going to the rear brakes and one into the back window area where the carb is. The lower side scoops go to the oil coolers on each side of the engine inside the engine compartment. The air scoops I omitted from the back of the car also go to the brakes, which were a weak point of the car.

progress continued

Nice pictures of the contest. I've never seen a contest where the cars are so perfectly lined up on the tables.