Chris V

Judging by the slightly offset motor mounts, that chassis is definitely based on Revell's 1968/69 Dodge Charger R/T and 1969 Daytona Charger tooling. Revell's recently reissued 1970 Charger R/T and F&F "Dom's Charger" is very similar but not quite identical, however the suspension parts will likely fit. AMT's 1971 Charger is a different generation, and though the 1:1 parts were largely identical, the model parts will not fit your chassis without considerable modification.

The bodies in question are cast in regular polyurethane resin by a well known US caster/vendor. There’s absolutely nothing unusual about the color, feel, texture or smell of the resin. They are fairly simple conversions for commonly available kits, but (now) underscaled. Some years ago I bought some soft resin tires from another, smaller caster. Those tires shrunk considerably as well, but I attribute that to either the resin compound having exceeded its shelf life or the mixing ratio being off, as they gave off fumes that attacked plastic as well (they left a haze on nearby plastic parts and “melted” the wheels just like old Revell tires)m.

That would be the MPC 1966 Pontiac Bonneville Annual kits: 1966 Pontiac Bonneville HT 1966 Pontiac Bonneville Convertible

A bit of advice to supplement what the others have already said: To prevent the paint “bleeding” under the masking tape, give the masked-off model a light mist coat of clear along the edges of the tape - just enough to seal the edges without building up a heavy layer. Follow up with mist coats of color avoiding to apply a “wet” coat of paint. Tamiya’s Pearl White is a very transparent top coat best applied over a solid white base coat. To prevent chipping along the edges, the masking tape should be removed before the paint dries and cures - even if it means you have to mask off the area again.

You should be aware that it has a shelf-life of about 2-3 years. Beyond that it becomes less reactive and takes significantly longer to fully cure. Sometimes it helps a little to cut away the outer layer and only use the “core” of the older putty sticks.

For optimal adhesion you have 30-45 minutes to apply the putty once mixed, depending on the room temperature. Less is more, as the saying goes: It's better to apply conservatively and add more later on if required. One of the many great advantages of Milliput is the ability to accurately sculpt it into shape using moistened tools. Once the putty starts setting, you can gently(!) fine adjust the shape within the first hour or two after application.

As stated above, it's best used on bare plastic, and generally recommended to rough up the surface prior to application to key it for adhesion, as the putty doesn´t contain any solvents enabling it to chemically "bite" into the surface on its own.

I decided to post this topic in the Model Building Q&A-section rather than the aftermarket section of the forum, as it is more of a general question concerning the use of resin parts, namely larger parts like car bodies. Let me start by saying, that as an experienced modeler I am familiar with working with resin and have both built and modified several resin models. However I was recently tasked with sorting the collection from the estate of a fellow modeler, sadly no longer among us. Among his kits were a number of relatively recent resin bodies from a well known manufacturer. When I compared some of the more "conservative" conversions to the suggested donor-kits it became apparent that some bodies were considerably smaller: For instance, one resin body was roughly 2 mm (or approximately 2 scale inches) narrower by the cowl than the hood from the kit it was based on and intended for use with. Likewise I found a resin body that had been cut in half and only one of the halves painted. Comparing the two halves to each other, it was very clear that the painted half had shrunken to a point where it would no longer line up with the other half. In fact, if it hadn't been for the multiple corresponding irregular cut-marks, it would have been hard to tell that the two halves were even from the same body. Anyway I've previously heard of some Japanese model kits with factory supplied resin body kits, that became unbuildable after just a few years due to shrinkage. This experience makes me wonder how common shrinkage issues are, and whether they're a more common occurrence with some resin manufacturers than others? It would be a shame to put countless hours of work into modifying and detailing a model - only to see it distort over time...

I was actually concerned that the metallics/pearls would look uneven under clearcoat. I never lay the Zero Paints basecoats on "wet" as, I've experienced the solvents causing both 2K putties (Milliput) to shrink significantly, and perfectly finished seams, removed emblems and molding inlet stubs to ghost like crazy, - even though they had been "washed" with thin liquid cement and sanded to a smooth finish after several weeks of drying time.

Unfortunately the usual (mandatory) preparation steps you mention do not prevent the Zero Paints primers' tendency to peel when (wet)sanded.

A straight reissue of the Elegance Series "Haulin' Henry" version with the headers and Rader wheels would be most welcome! On a side note, many of the AMT pre-war hot rod kits would benefit tremendously from having some smaller diameter front tires added: The newly tooled front tires for the '65 Chevelle AWB kit would be perfect for a vintage hot rod!

It looks like the bug catcher in MPC's 1967 Corvette Stingray (recently reissued in the "Streaker Vette"-version) might provide a suitable scoop if you want to build the injector base from scratch.

I've experienced the exact same peeling-issues with both Zero Paints' "regular" and "new improved" primer, no matter how long and well I shake the bottles to ensure proper mixing. Thus I've opted to use different primers. However you should be aware, that Zero Paints basecoat colors are extremely "hot" and their solvents can penetrate most primers causing bodywork to "ghost" severely if applied too heavily. I recommend testing their compatibility with different primers on a scrap body. Edit: I have yet to try their 2K primer. It might not have the same poor sanding properties as the 1K versions. On a side note, their basecoat colors also have a tendency to clog and dull abrasive paper, even when wet sanding.

Another vote for Milliput Superfine White 2K putty here! As mentioned by others, it can be sculpted in shape and has excellent “feathering” capabilities when sanded. Furthermore it’s virtually odorless and doesn’t shrink once it’s properly cured. For improved adhesion and strength I recommend lightly sanding the surface prior to application. As a general recommandation, putties don’t adhere as well to smooth and sharp edges (like door jambs and panel lines for instance). To improve the adhesion and finish I like to bevel such edges with a round milling-bit in my Proxxon (Dremel-type drill/rotary tool).

A word of caution for the final assembly: The fit between the body and wheelhouses is VERY tight on these models. To avoid cracking/chipping the paint along the rocker panels and wheel arches during installation of the body on the platform, you can slip a sheet of wax paper or backing paper from e.g. a shipping label between the body and platform to protect the painted surfaces.

Very interesting projects! Are the various photo etch sets significantly different from each other?

Pardon my ignorance on modern engines, but is the engine in AMT's "Wagonrod" a LS as well?

If nothing else surfaces, check out the reissues of AMT’s 1963 Chevrolet Impala HT.

As mark says, they're all identical apart from the red glass in the Mazmanian issue. Curious choice as tinted windshields weren't permitted per NHRA Gas class rules either. Either way they all build up very nicely and can be varied with parts from other, more contemporary Revell kits. I'm planning to build a replica of the light blue SWC Willys using the new Revell gasser kit and the Olds Rocket/Hydro combo from their 1950 Oldsmobile Custom kit as a base.

If I’m not mistaken, the Mr. Gasket Gasser was a unique tooling to reflect the features of the real car and enable the body to be molded in clear styrene.

Simple: You cut a length of styrene strip, place it across a suitably curved surface (e.g. a bottle) and tape the ends down to keep it in place. Gradually add additional styrene spring leaves, making sure to distribute the glue sparingly along the middle of the full length of the new strip of styrene, and tape it down to keep it snug when in place. Once the glue has set, the assembly will retain its curvature. Additional leaves will further stiffen the assembly - just like in the real world.

For one of the widest selections of high quality aftermarket wheels in 1:24-scale check out the German company: www.scaleproduction.de

It was the final iteration of the Promo/Craftsman kit tooling. Unfortunately the molds were most likely either damaged, scrapped or lost. Hopefully Round2 will consider this cool subject for their "Cloning programme"...

If you don’t have any luck finding an original set, you can find some virtually identical AR 200-S “Daisy” mags in most reissues of AMT’s 1963 Chevy Impala HT.

I’ve just inherited a rebuildable Monogram 1:32 “Boss Willys”. Unfortunately the model is missing the outer half of one of the front wheels. I know it's possible to cast a replacement in resin, but I would really prefer to replace it with an original vintage plastic kit part. Does anyone happen to have a useable wheel, they can spare?