Chris V

Unfortunately no - The Lincoln Y-block is rare in itself and to the best of my knowledge it has never been kitted with the early style valve covers. Ironically the closest thing you'll find is the engine in AMT's ancient "Customizing Boat Kit", which features a hot-rodded Lincoln Y-block with the 1955-56 Continental style valve covers. The kit dates back to around 1959/60 so the engine is quite crude by todays standards, but it's a nice variation for engine-swapping the old AMT "Trophy Series" kits. A somewhat similar set of valve covers can be found in, AMT's 1925 Ford Model T Roadster, but the engine is a strange hybrid of Y-block and big block.

These wheels were missing from the seventies thru 00's reissues of the kit, but were re-tooled when Round2 took over and reissued the Avanti. They have since been included in Round2 reissues of the AMT AC Cobra 289 and in the AMT parts pack PP021 "Custom Caps and Wheels".

It depends on which version: The Stock version has a 3-spd manual, the Custom has a Hydramatic automatic.

I'm fairly sure that Replicas & Miniatures of Maryland Co. used to offer a set of E&J Headlights in resin. I don't know if they're still available, though. A Shapeways Marketplace store (I think it was Maple Leaf Modelworks @Spex84?) used to offer them as well, but Shapeways is currently undergoing a number of changes following their bankruptcy last year.

On a side note, this appears to be an ever so slightly modified re-cast of the front axle assembly from Monogram’s “Blue Beetle” 1929 Ford Roadster Pickup and Original issue 1930 Ford Woodie.

Tamiya offers some (admittedly) pricey but spectacular short HSS drill bits for use in pin vises. They're sold separately in sizes down to 0.2 mm. The great advantage of these drill bits is that the drill-part itself is relatively short compared to other bits (approximately 3 mm) making them less fragile. Another excellent option is Proxxon (Essentially a high-end Dremel tool). I keep a large selection of their HSS drills and milling bits handy at all times.

They do: The wide whitewall tire is named "196" and the narrow Whitewall is named "197". These Firestone Supreme tires appeared in AMT-kits in the early/mid sixties, and have been issued with various pad-printed whitewall options since Round2 took over. The whitewall style (wide/narrow) differs, but sources include Round2-reissues of AMT's 1955 Chevrolet Cameo, 1960 Ford Starliner 2'n 1 (not the current custom-only issue), 1962 Buick Electra, 1965 Ford Galaxie XL, and 1966 Ford Galaxie XL.

Interesting... They look suspiciously like the front tires from MPC's 1:20 McLaren Mk8D CanAm

Just to clarify: There's a world of difference between polyurethane resin used for casting and the resin used for 3D-printing. It is NOT the same thing! If you leave a cast (polyurethane) resin part in isopropyl alcohol (or brake fluid for that matter) it will soften the resin beyond use. 3D printers use an entirely different kind of resin with different chemical/physical properties. In general 3D printed parts can be cleaned/stripped with isopropyl alcohol, but some types are more vulnerable to chemicals than others.

I hare to be a buzzkill, but without an authoritative list of Round2’s current tooling inventory available this thread was bound to spiral out of control. Many of the kits requested in this thread are annuals which underwent numerous alterations and thus cannot be reissued without considerable investments in new tooling. Others have previously been confirmed to be either damaged, lost or scrapped, and finally some of the AMC kits were literally rebadged Jo-Han kits which AMT never owned the tooling for. For obvious reasons Round2 isn’t going to disclose a comprehensive list of their current tooling inventory or planned projects - We’ll just have to see what the future brings…

Isopropyl alcohol can seriously damage/soften some types of cast resin. I'd strongly discourage this as a way of cleaning the parts.

I've noticed that Mr. Color Leveling Thinner is frequently brought up in discussion threads regarding paint and airbrushing. I was quite surprised to discover that it seemingly works as a universal thinner for not only various brands but various types of paint (Acrylic, Enamels and Lacquers), so I figured I'd create this easy to find thread for people to share their experiences with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner. Please share which paints you've confirmed to be compatible/incompatible with the thinner and your preferred mixing ratios for airbrushing.

AMT's 1949 and '50 Fords have a different, more detailed, style of engine assemblies compared to the "interchangeable" Trophy Series engines with the distinct mounting tabs molded into the engine block. In addition to the engines above, the following are designed in the same style, and can be adapted to fit the kits: AMT Customizing Boat Kit - Lincoln Y-block (The engine does not have a transmission, but the transmission and bellhousing from the '34 Ford Pickup "Thunderbird" engine lines up perfectly with the block) AMT 1953 Studebaker Starliner - Chrysler "Fire Power" 392 Hemi Furthermore it can debated if the Hemi engines in AMT's "Double Dragster", the recently retooled '63 Nova Wagon, and the "Boss Nova" Wagon belong to the same "family" of AMT engines. If I remember correctly, the "Boss Nova" was created by combining parts from the original '63 Nova Wagon with the Hemi display-engine from the '61 Buick Wagon.

Over the years I have purchased more model kits from Steve than from any other vendor. He was a genuinely good guy, and will be missed. Rest in peace Steve!

Another vote for the "cellulose-/lacquer thinner and patience" approach! Apart from the risk of shattering the glass, using vise grips or directly on the cap will usually damage the treads, rendering the cap useless. In the rare event I do have to use additional force to loosen the cap, I use a small pipe wrench and place a folded towel between the cap and the jaws of the wrench. As a rule of thumb it's a good idea to clean the treads on the jar/glass and inside of the cap with a rag/paper towel soaked in lacquer thinner before screwing the cap back on.

I don't think its due to false advertising or insufficient quality control... I've noticed, that the LP paint bottles give off a slight smell - even when thoroughly sealed. This is a sign that the volatile thinner is slowly evaporating from the bottles, which would explain the reduced contents - especially if stored under hot conditions or for longer periods of time.

I can’t remember if it’s Jack Modeling or Ukrainian Scale Cars Production, but somebody already has. Historic Racing Miniatures made them in resin, but I’m not sure if Harold has retired by now.

Before I start fiddling with building some from scratch, I'd like to ask if anyone here has purchased MCW Resin's set of Tri-Five Chevy fenderwell headers? Their website doesn't show any pictures of the actual product, and I haven't had any luck finding pictures of them posted online. I'm looking for a set of proper sixties' style fenderwell dumps like the ones found in the AMT "Connoisseur Classics" reissue MPC's 1932 Chevy Convertible - not the more angled/square style seen on many contemporary gasser builds.

Amazing model - It may very well be the most impressive result anyone has ever achieved, starting off with that complete mess of a kit as base!

The teal colored interior gives it away: It’s not a promo but the simplified “Craftsman Jr.” Kit based on the Promo tooling. The bumpers are interchangeable with the regular AMT kit parts.

Though I hope you’re not contemplating cutting up a good body of such a rare and desirable kit, I really like your idea of building it as a tribute to Jairus. You shoud turn your attention to older Monogram kits for some of the other parts: Windshield/frame: AMT 1957 Ford Thunderbird Headrests: Monogram 1958 Ford Thunderbird 2’n 1 Dashboard (less instrument cluster): Monogram “Predicta” or “Orange Hauler” Wheels & tires: Monogram “Orange Hauler”. An alternate source of the Chrome Reverse wheels could be Monogram’s 1932 Ford Roadster with accessory “bullets” added to the centers.

It’s really a matter of what you’re building. In many cases the decals will have a different surface texture in the real world thus making it most correct to apply them after the clear. If clear coating the decals you should always allow them ample time to thoroughly dry and set before applying the clear to avoid trapping moisture in the clear coat. You should also be aware that in some instances the clear can dissolve the dye/ink or carrier film when clear coating over decals. Furthermore it’s worth noting that some clears are more prone to yellowing over time. With all of these cautions out of the way, I prefer to apply 2K Clear over BMF and some decals in order to seal and protect them from handling and degadation over time. I’ve found that on some of my older builds the BMF is has lost its full adhesive strenght making it more fragile and likely to lift/chip along the edges when handling/cleaning the model.

The old Revell 1953/54 kits (Sedan and Sedan Delivery) are frankly terrible kits. As already mentioned they suffer from weak bodywork detail and engraving, and the engine bay leaves a lot to be desired. However if you put a disproportionate amount of work into correcting and detailing them, they can actually look really cool. Out of sheer stubbornness I’ve decided to build a historically correct gasser using the Sedan as a base, adding detail parts from numerous Revell kits made around the same time. Hopefully the result will be worth the effort, but I expect it to fight me all the way…

The math speaks for itself, but in reality it depends on whether the models are truly true to scale… It’s been debated on numerous occations, but some scale models have rather exaggerated proportions.

Great build - It has nice eighties’ Street Machine vibe!