sidcharles

Q: if the initial project is a trial, could you get by with the same material in wire form & tap, tap, tap it into shape? not knowing which video you are referencing, not sure which product is in question. maybe try Hiroboy supply source? https://www.hiroboy.com/Metal--category--27.html in all candor, and it's widely known i watch a Lot of YT videos, no one gets more labor intense than A4 Garage. i say get on your Happi coat and start snippin'.

that engine is just so darn cute! sorta sidebar: it was about 15 years ago when i began to notice the adaptation of "patina" on non-military (& railroad) vehicles. as momentum grew and the r@? rods took hold, i was convince that most of the rust & grime guys plastered on their models (automotive) was to cover mistakes in construction, lack of follow through on building a thorough job, and/ or poor planning. i still hold the was a goodly amount of that going on. but as the more in-tune modelers undertook the work necessary to follow real weathering, or the steps in a vehicle's life which would cause damage, i softened a bit to the addition of wear & tear. yet, i still find it refreshing not to have to look through rust & grime in order to see a nicely built auto. i mean, most of us are not trying to duplicate battle damaged or weather beaten, tanks.

the amount of detail in all areas makes this a very balanced presentation.

Q: did you turn the drill x hand or is it tough enough to take power [& slow feed rate]? thanks

for me, it's under the bed. never sleep with your feet out from under the blankets.

nice; Dagmar would approve

nice job. the back-dating & clean ups are well worth the energy. if you need one more rabbit-hole in your modeling life . . . . https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/

i always find the register with one sale left on the tape. of course the cashier has not been trained in paper receipt-changing, so the trouble light gets turned on whilst we wait for someone in the AV club to straighten things out.

sidebar:

if you are going to slide a wire into the tubing, the diameter of the hole needs to be a loose but not sloppy fit with the wire size you are going to use. so if you pick .040 wire, .040 tubing should be fine. if you use a piece of plastic tube or sprue, drill a .040 hole through the center. this type of hinge isn't usually seen, so a scale reference to the components really will not detract from the feature of an opening body panel [door, trunk lid, hood]. for the first few, concentrate on the bending & installation/ operation part, and then start to massage the components to a proportion which is visually acceptable to you, and still strong enough to support the panel which it holds. there's a plethora of information in this very thread, so maybe starting on page one and investigating the links will hit on a way or trick to give you the courage to charge in. like anything first few times, it can be daunting.

i remember for the first Revell-Pactra Contest, the sponsors were suggesting the contestants ship their models surrounded in popcorn.* *popped, of course.

plastic tubing & brass wire which is large enough to fill the hole in the tubing.

i take it no one here has tried to buy cigarettes or baby formula in the past 20 years.

you might want to glue a strip of styrene on edges of the body & panels after getting an approximate 90 degree surface. file or sand the the shim to hood/ trunk lid thickness, and only then start scribing it to the body. do the vertical [wall thickness] work first, and then get the parts to mate correctly in the horizontal plane. if you do it bass/ ackwards, you run the risk of making the panel too short.. the operative word if "kit". by nature it will take energy and patience to make it look good. become One with the styrene.

yeah. every one doesn't need to be a gasser.