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Andria H

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Everything posted by Andria H

  1. This started out as a Jimmy Flintstone cab and a Tyrone Malone drag truck & a spare set of Daytons. Every single part has been reworked if not swapped or omitted altogether. I have 3 weeks or so into the build, which is a Stacey David, Randy Grubb & Richard Rawlings tribute, or perhaps even something Malone himself could have built as a retirement toy had he lived longer.
  2. Old school Harry Miller speed equipment on a Model A And the car itself And for the Jeepers here, a Kaiser Jeepster Revival Phaeton from the mid 60s for any kind of Jeepster/Commander reference
  3. California-made 1981 Aquila SS kit car 1938 Chevy ton & a half canopy express Old skool patina idea for an AMT or Revell 50s Ford. 19 1953 Fiat Millecento (1100) pickup truck Interior reference for the ebay kit of a 3D printed Kaiser Manhattan. This is a slightly different year but good to start with.
  4. "As raced" finish and weathering over fresh paint on my thrift-store find rehab. Decals from Gofer Racing and my parts bin will be used, they will be scraped up/aged over if necessary, engine will be assembled from the 289 short block and 4-speed in the kit and the balance from a Bill Elliott NASCAR Thunderbird & made into a proper weekend warrior powertrain, and the pad printed AMT tires are aged/muddied to suit. Radiator and fan and chassis reinforcement are in, tail panel is stripped down & turned into a billboard panel, and the whole car has been aged/distressed all over but not too rusty, with simulated ceramic coating on the exhaust pipe.
  5. Interior and chassis are enhanced with bits from AMT and Monogram 1990s NASCAR kits, doors are welded shut and sealed, fuel system, suspension and wheels/tires are on, interior hardware is all in, and body needs a bit more fine tuning and sanding/filling before it is ready for its paint scheme of cobalt blue engine block & wheel centers, with silver paint elsewhere, bright blue side cove & tail panel, muddy tires/undercarriage, and bright blue roll cage padding & Gofer Racing logos/numbers. I will get "body off" photos while the shell is detached for engine/gearbox/driveline installation and weathering of those areas etc.
  6. Last progress note for the night. Fuel pipe in rear tail panel is removed/filled, interior painted in metallic charcoal with details yet to be determined, kit supplied suspension is used to keep things simple, but still modified so parts from some kind of 1/24 Monogram stocker will fit. Wheel wells are ragged & jagged and opened up wide to accommodate MPC Goodyear dirt tires, taillights made nonfunctional, and it has been primered/sanded all over with 3M glazing putty to fix the surface & fill the door gaps to simulate welded up doors. I will be cutting out the inner stock door/side paneling except where it holds up the dashboard and fills out the rear compartment, so as to accommodate the cage, using just a windshield with Plexi wind wing pieces to protect the driver, bracing the rear window opening with half round scrap plastic, and detailing the dash, pedals, seat, etc. before rattle canning it in Tamiya German Silver with cobalt blue hood and putting on either Hamm's or Pabst beer sponsorship with American flags on the quarter panels, from Slixx/Gofer type decals, and possibly Sinclair Oil and/or Hostess sponsorship from my parts bins and a red, white, and blue dorsal stripe, if those decals are viable. Engine in this will be a standard NASCAR Thunderbird Ford 351 Windsor based design turned into a typical short tracker setup. Gotta do more sanding on the body/hood before I even think of painting, but there is lots to do still before I get my donor kit on Monday to near-finish it before decals arrive.
  7. Started on something I've been wanting to do for awhile now that the thrift stores yielded a $5 gluebomb of the donor kit I wanted, complete with moldy box/directions, missing decals and lots of parts gone or messed up. 1/24 scale Monogram '65 Ford Mustang 2+2, again, this is a rehabilitated gluebomb that is stripped out for the dirt oval track, and reinforced and prepared for an infusion of parts from a Monogram 1/24 scale NASCAR Thunderbird kit & my parts box, and will later get some Gofer or Slixx short tracker decals. Paint color is as of now undecided, but interior will be cobalt blue with matching cage, detailed instrument panel, and undecided color seat, engine will be from the donor kit as will wheels/tires/suspension, hood hinge holes will be filled with JB SteelStik putty and filed smooth, battery has been carved out of engine compartment with plans to relocate it, and it will have only a front windshield for glass, blocked off/filled fuel tank filler to simulate a trunk-fill setup to go with the fuel cell I added, and a small mesh front grille replacement between the two vertical posts in the engine-bay cage section.
  8. The steering wheel is painted matte gunmetal with detailed spark advance levers and center cap, side panels are still works in progress, running boards painted Testors Rubber enamel as are front floormats, seats are being made to look like aged leather, carpets are down on the floors with special rugs made for up front and the rumble seat as original, and mostly all I have to do now is the chassis and trim and numerous other small but laborious/intricate processes. The factory accessory tool compartment on the firewall is painted in cobalt blue with hardware yet to be added. I definitely have the Hubley bug now. My next, once this is 100% finished, will be one of the most forgotten and rarest ever early Fords: a 1930 town car/limo. Thread on that to come eventually.
  9. Little bit more busy work. The hood is together, with modern Phillips screws installed in place of the original flathead ones, and JB SteelStik in the seams, the steering box is detailed, the ignition coil box is sculpted around the burr that the screw in the cowl went into when I did initial assembly of the body, the grille is looking really nice, and I made the base cardboard for what will be upholstered and detailed rumble seat side panels, golf club compartment partition, front kick panel, and door panels to conceal the rough cast inner body and make this more of a replica than a toy car. The cardboard I used to make the interior upholstery panels was matboard scrap from photo framing, and it was cut to shape/size with a Stanley knife. I have still yet to check BaT and Sothebys and similar sites for auction listings of the real thing so I can make the interior look as correct as I can.
  10. From the Andria Doria to 1/25 scale
  11. Nice work. We're friends on FB but I have not yet seen this
  12. Last big update for today on my 1/22 scale original issue Hubley '30 Packard 740 standard steel roadster. The body has been permanently assembled and puttied/filled/smoothed, given a light guide coat of grey primer-sealer, and sanded out again, with the rear rumble seat lid hinges modified to open and close more accurately and efficiently, and an ignition coil box was formed around the burr cast into the firewall for the selftapping screw to thread into. That's a lot of sanding, filing, and other delicate work. The engine needs some permanent assembly to the head and bottom sump cover and oil/fuel & Rajah central lubrication system parts, detail thereof, and a fan belt fashioned from a small rubber band or an ultra-thin band of Gorilla brand black duct tape, but the basic look is there. Making the interior paneling bases and the upholstery for them will be another big step and a giant leap in my modeling skills, but I am looking forward to it.
  13. thank you! Am pecking away at this a bit at a time since I usually have 3 or 4 kits and 1 or 2 custom diecast going at once. Of course, that's modeling for you, both the leisurely pace and the multiple projects on the bench.
  14. Thanks! I have some more progress to show. The body has been assembled with Devcon 5-minute epoxy and the standard flathead screw to backfill the center seam from behind it and form an intermediate surface for the J-B Weld SteelStik putty I am getting today to adhere to inside the seam, as well as to solidify the pin joints that hold the rest of the shell together outside of the screw fixture at the firewall. I then used 3M glazing putty to deal with high/low spots in the main casting and hood/bonnet parts, with the latter piece to be made one integrated assembly via Devcon epoxy and J-B steel stick putty and quite a bit of body/fender work. The putty was sanded off until the body surface was smooth to my liking, and once the body and bonnet cure and are sanded/filed/blocked out, they'll get a guide coat of automotive primer-sealer to see if it all looks right. Speaking of which, I still have a great deal to do to those fenders, as well as heating the metal on the fuel tank skirt with a bick lighter and partially annealing it so I can straighten the dented fuel tank skirt like I annealed and reshaped the hinges on the rumble seat lid/backrest to move smooth and in the manner of the real car. The chiffon yellow grille slats and wire wheels are an authentic factory color that I mixed to spec from Apple Barrel craft paint thinned to the consistency of a Vallejo acrylic with Dollar Tree window cleaner solution, allowed to dry thoroughly, and covered in 1980s vintage Testors clear enamel, and the engine wiring harness/magneto is painted with red and brass/bronze tone Sharpie pen. The body has been assembled with Devcon 5-minute epoxy and the standard flathead screw to backfill the center seam from behind it and form an intermediate surface for the J-B Weld SteelStik putty I am getting today to adhere to inside the seam, as well as to solidify the pin joints that hold the rest of the shell together outside of the screw fixture at the firewall. I then used 3M glazing putty to deal with high/low spots in the main casting and hood/bonnet parts, with the latter piece to be made one integrated assembly via Devcon epoxy and J-B steel stick putty and quite a bit of body/fender work. The putty was sanded off until the body surface was smooth to my liking, and once the body and bonnet cure and are sanded/filed/blocked out, they'll get a guide coat of automotive primer-sealer to see if it all looks right. Speaking of which, I still have a great deal to do to those fenders, as well as heating the metal on the fuel tank skirt with a bick lighter and partially annealing it so I can straighten the dented fuel tank skirt like I annealed and reshaped the hinges on the rumble seat lid/backrest to move smooth and in the manner of the real car. The chiffon yellow grille slats and wire wheels are an authentic factory color that I mixed to spec from Apple Barrel craft paint thinned to the consistency of a Vallejo acrylic with Dollar Tree window cleaner solution, allowed to dry thoroughly, and covered in 1980s vintage Testors clear enamel, and the engine wiring harness/magneto is painted with red and brass/bronze tone Sharpie pen. And I added a 6-volt tar top battery to the battery compartment.
  15. Excited for this, the Mountain Goat is one of my favorite kits and I am thrilled to see the wagon roof back. If the plow is back, even better. As for wheels/tires, I never cared for MPC Desert Dogs and would swap those for Revellogram Denman Ground Hawgs converted with a "tube" aka parts box tire inside to be properly directional and use a parts bin Jackman style rim.
  16. This is mostly mockup photos to start with, except for the engine which is largely done. I have a great deal of filing/sanding/prep to do, but I have the basic engine assembly underway, the dashboard well underway with the broken frame on the windshield to be attached to the top of the windowpane with careful application of Devcon quick epoxy (my hands are not steady/quick enough to use superglue very effectively) I scratchbuilt a dashboard for the build from African mahogany craft veneer due to all the decals having long ago perished, & even so, the design of such being more of a toy design than a true model design. Code IM536 Casino Red is the factory color I chose for the build, with Code IM526 Straw for wheel/grille accent, a Black soft top, and front/rear seats in English Saddle with similar color, scratchbuilt side panels & rumble seat carpets, Testors Rubber enamel for the intake manifold and front floormats and probably some other small pieces, and the headlight/taillight lenses etc. will be painted to match factory stock with a 1930 California plate going on the back. Wood floor texture underneath will be painted and drybrushed and washed to have an appropriate texture/color/grain. I will be hand drawing the gauge and switch gear details on the dash plank before I complete the build, which is barely started at this point. Some oil seepage will be added to the suspension, engine, central lubrication system, etc. and the wheel backs will be detailed. And the well under the soft top will be lined with painters' tape and painted/textured in black. Needless to say, I'll be doing a lot more sanding, filling, filing, etc. given the raw ZAMAC castings with slag still attached.
  17. Can't wait to see this back (hopefully) Hope they do a Force 440 Monaco/Coronet coupe body or even a new tool Magnum body and interior for the Dukes/Goon Car/CHP Monaco sedan.
  18. I like this a lot! Great creative use of "greeblies and doodads" from other kits!
  19. thanks Sid. I know Dave Shuklis from reading old moldy model magazines, Rod & Customs & Barris Spotlite Books I found at an estate sale 20 years ago.
  20. This is the venerable Monogram kit in its latest reissue from Revell. The hardtop was warped so I cut the doors down to factory half hard doors and built it "al fresco". The Golden Eagle decals are reserved for a '79 J10 pickup build. I built it with a sealed hood due to issues with the hinge and with the appearance of the engine bay. Bumpers are scratchbuilt basswood planks stained in a Spanish Oak finish. Paint is GM Corporate Blue engine block paint for the Levi bits (copper Sharpie for the rivets) and Rust-oleum Black Knight Metallic for the remainder. I used chalk pastel dust for light weathering.
  21. My Jo-Han 1968 Cadillac Deville convertible.
  22. Great work, I am seeing quite a bit of Bohmann & Schwartz, Howard Darrin and Hayes inspiration in this design, among other great names in 1930s coach building.
  23. excellent work!
  24. Appreciate the warm welcome, and thanks for the compliment on the Jeep!
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