Big Messer

Thanks. Body color is Custom Green Metallic Flake Testors 1630T. Now pondering about the interior. Will be 2 tone same green and Moon White from Home Depot, but have to decide how to do the door panels and dash: green on white or white on green. Decisions, decisions...

A few weeks ago I found 2 1904 Mercedes for around $7 at Goodwill, both damaged. Made one good one and had enough parts to make a racer version... that is started and sitting in the WIP growing pile. BTW Goodwill has an auction page. Interesting finds there both in diecasts and kits, but BUYERS BEWARE has to be kept in mind. The people that lists the items usually don't have the foggiest idea about what they are posting.

A damaged diecast Chrysler 300 with missing parts. Lotsa fun matching the front and rear sections due to different curves...

A diecast cab on a brass scratchbuilt chassis. Still missing the hydraulic cylinders to power up and down the top part. And yes, they do exist and not the craziest one. What about the front half of and Oldsmobile Toronado. Even crazier one Toronado with the roof cut away.

1939 Monogram Chevrolet being converted into an argentinian Turismo Carretera. Juan M. Fangio drove one very similar.

A Monogram conversion that will have the steering moved to the right.

An old Monogram Indy racer. Several body modifications, hardest making the hood openable and hinged in the center.

Thanks!

I forgot to say that it is intended to fill scratches on final thin coats. All the scratches on the roadster's final pic are what it is intended for. One coat, dries in about 15 min and ends ready for paint.

We know that the actual car is realistic and super detailed, hopefully the model will be good enough.

... wish I had the space for one. Certainly have more than enough fiascos to fill it.

Never thought about that. It is a great idea!.

I use Bondo or Evercoat glaze and spot putty. Sold at auto parts stores, a 4 or 5 oz tube costs less than $10 and lasts a long time. Attaches great to metal and plastic, sands easily and has excellent feathering properties.

Probably it costs as much as the full-size original...

If you ever take it apart probably you will find that the tin material is painted with rejected soda caps on the inside...

I have a few myself. Also noticed that some (not the ones with zinc rot) have tires that started to melt.

This is something like the house trucks sometimes seen in the PNW, New Zealand and Australia. Started as a cheap tin truck that was on sale at Hobby Lobby, then I scratchbuilt the house part out of cardboard and wood. Wood shingles made out of thin edging veneer.

A diecast Ford with a very old AMT camper that I modified. Moved the side door to the rear, reworked the interior and added solar panels.

This is a diecast with a scratchbuilt house section. The sloppily installed solar panel is a working one, plan is to power the lights with it.

VERY NICE WORK! Being a fan of motorhomes I found this thread very inspirational. Will post some of mine here, but be warned that are not even close in quality...

Dave: I think you should add a fan venting to the outside taking the fumes away from you.

Currently doing a VW camper. Car is a diecast, body scratchbuilt from styrene. Will have a detailed interior.

Many moons ago I did one of this, but the Hubley version. Same kit but lower quality... if that is possible. Got it a a messed up build with missing parts. And had a Car and Driver page of cartoons. So I made this. I made all decals in an ALPS printed that, for my eternal regret, sold. It has blinking LEDs and the sign is lighted.