Bernard Kron

Beautiful styling. The body mods really improve the looks of the car. Gorgeous lookin' result.

Very nice. Looks like you chopped the top a bit. or is that just the way the kit comes?

Great thread! It's what makes this board what it is. Art is all about expressiveness. Some box builds transcend the kit and take the observer to another place, connecting him with the vision of the builder. In those cases it's "all in the details", but some of the details, like surface textures, stance, and colors are not so obvious. Sometimes it takes extraordinary craftsmanship to take the observer to "another place". and sometimes super-detailing or completely original scratch building can be extraordinarily stale or senselessly busy and misdirected. But what is being discussed here is the difference between “good†(i.e. successful in attaining expressiveness) and “bad†art. But in the end it’s probably all about wrestling with the problem of artistic expression. Some people maybe don’t “get it†at all – maybe thinking that it’s purely about assembly of a kit or a slapdash and cursory creation of a cliche (I’m reminded of the “donks†discussions on this board and the battle to determine if a great “donk†build can even exist, which of course it can and does, like anything else) – so in the extreme the potential always exists for bad art. But mostly people strive towards some form of self expression on their own terms. Gerald Wingrove’s name pops up a lot on this thread. While I think he is a great, great artist among automobile modelers it has little to do with the fact that he is a scratch builder and everything to do with his ability to convey the essence of his subject as he sees it. A giant among craftsmen Wingrove certainly is, and for this alone he should be admired. But his sense of subject, line, proportion, color, texture and detail take you to “another place†and you come away feeling you have partaken, if only a little, of what he sees. Is Juha Aiirio any less of an artist because he scratch builds a far lower percentage of his model? Does he fail in some way to convey the essence of his subject where Wingrove succeeds. I think most will agree that the answer is no and that Aiirio is every bit the artist that Wingrove is. Here we are talking about practitioners of the “realist†school. (In passing I should mention that we would be gravely remiss in not acknowledging the great “realist†modelers who inhabit the NASCARS, Drag Racing Models and Model Trucks threads on this board). So what are we to say about the Treehugger whose builds have no counterpart in “real life� Or Mr. Biggs’ consistently “fantastic†creations? Or Steve Boutte and Bill Stillwagon, both of whom work in the 50’s custom idiom but whose models really aren’t accurate replicas of those customs at all. Rather, they all succeed as spectacular evocations of each of these “artists†personal vision. Yes, craftsmen all, but that is only a part of what we admire in their builds. The examples could go on endlessly. The point is that we all build as a form of self expression, some with greater craftsmanship than others, some with “more to say†than others. Many of us are probably dreadful artists with little to “say†and we fail miserably every time we try. But we try. And in this we share something with those who succeed on a level we don’t even dream about. So yes, car modeling is an art. And I think we all know it. B.

Wonderful. wonderful piece. A great appreciation of a pivotal time. The models and their settings aren't too shabby either! B.

Nice pics of some nice builds! I guess we'll all have to just stand four feet away and enjoy them! As I mentioned on your Charger post, your engine compartments are especially nice ... very convincing.

Excellent! A very realistic looking build. The engine compartment is particularly succesful. I like the front wheel pose, too. Are the wheels on your build posable?

OK. This is very recent, ten days ago. Raul Perez sent me the link at the time. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...E:B:WNA:US:1123 $2,020.00 ain't bad, and it is a kit (new and sealed even) so it qualifies. But I know this must be chump change. Surely someone out there can do better! B.

Yes! Yes! Yes! How 'bout a tooth brush holder build off?!!

Thanx Mike. From the creator of the iconic '34 Pickup on this board I'm flattered! Love that rear 3/4 view in your avatar BTW. B.

Aw shucks

Hi Clay: From another thread I saw that you started I know that you’re a Photobucket user. I am too. I’ll answer your question in a more detailed fashion for the benefit of others reading this thread who might be Photobucket users.. Unfortunately I don’t know anything about other photo hosting services. From the album that contains the pictures you want to post select a picture by clicking the little box below the lower left hand corner of the picture. (Click on picture for larger image) Then go to the bottom of the page and select “Generate HTML and IMG code†in the lower right hand corner. (Click on picture for larger image) Photobucket will jump to a new screen entitled “Generated HTML, Ebay and IMG Codeâ€. The third one down “IMG clickable thumbnails for message boards – recommended†is the link I am copying to get the little images I’m using in this post. If you place your cursor anywhere in the text string for the link Photobucketwill copy the link into your computer’s paste buffer. Just paste the link into the text for your post message and your done! (Click on picture for larger image) I hope this answers your question. B.

Yes! Here are some chassis pics. I didn’t want to take the suspension bits apart because I’m finalizing chassis and body mount adjustments but I think this will do to explain how I got the front end “in the weedsâ€. The biggest issue with lowering the front end of the ‘34-‘38 Ford frames is the front cross member which hangs down quite a ways. I’ve found you can’t get a really modern low front end look on these frames without cutting down the cross member. This seems to be an issue with the 1:1’s as well because I’ve seen references to substituting Model A and ’32 cross members to achieve this. In my case I simply removed the material on the cross member molding down to the frame line. In the following picture the frame from my pickup is on the right and the frame on the left is from a ’37 Panel Delivery which has the same cross member. I outlined the material I removed in red. (Click on picture for larger image) Next I took apart the kit’s “hot rod†dropped front axle, carefully removing the spring. This axle jas a very mild drop, perhaps 2.5 scale inches, so I knew plenty more work would be required to get the nose down. The Lindberg ’34 Pickup is an old AMT kit and uses the AMT metal axles to hold the wheels. If I used this system I would have had to drill a hole through the motor to clear the axle. So I simply chose not to use it at all. I normally glue my wheels to the axles anyway so I made some plastic stub axles from styrene rod of the same diameter as the original metal axles and glued them in to circular channels molded into the front axle that held the metal axles. I then cut away any part of the stub axle that wouldn’t be part of the 1:1’s original setup. In this case this was a semicircular cut on the left hand side of the axle between the shock attachment point and the original shackle mounts. If you look carefully at the above picture you may be able to see it. Next I de-arched the spring by heating it in hot water and flattening it, then cooling it immediately in cold water to set the new shape. My plan was to glue the flattened spring back in place on top of the re-worked axle and then glue the front axle in the original location on the now-shaved front cross member. This is the setup you see in the first pictures on this thread. The problem was I still didn’t have enough rake, and the wheels sat back a little too much in the fenders. This is OK when there’s a lot of space between the fender and the tire, but looks funky with the wheel snugged up into the wheel well which was my goal. At this point I decided that the spring needed to be mounted behind the axle. This would accomplish two things I needed to get done. Firstly it would lower the front end another 2 scale inches compared to mounting the spring on top of the axle, and secondly it would relocate the axle centerline further forward relative to the fender arch. Unfortunately, in disassembling the axle/spring setup the very thin and fragile leaf spring broke apart. Rather than attempting to repair it, which would have, at best, resulted in an even more fragile and finicky part, I decided to substitute a ’29 Model front spring (interestingly a not uncommon setup on ’34 hotrods to get the front end down) from an old AMT ’29 A Roadster kit I had. The spring is fairly flat so no de-arching was needed. Instead I simply removed the bottom leaf of the spring which flattened it and narrowed it to fit correctly on the axle. The spring is simply glued to the axle. Here’s the complete setup installed on the front end: (Click on picture for larger image) The final rake on the frame looks like this: (Click on picture for larger image) Most of the rake is the result of all the suspension work, but the smaller diameter tires from the Revell .Good Guys 40 Ford Coupe Street Rod relative to the rear tires also helped. Additional work still to do on the front end include re-connecting the stock vane-type hydraulic shocks (incorrectly referred to as “friction†shocks) and aligning the steering track rod and front stabilizer bars. And lastly, here are some monochrome shots of the pickup in full primer with the grilled mocked up in silver paint, the front bumper mounted and chrome ’32 Ford headlight buckets installed. I find monochrome pictures like this are sort of the digital equivalent of squinting and help me get a good idea of what the completed car will look like. (Click on picture for larger image) Next is the engine and interior and paint. Their is no interior bucket on this kit so I’ll have to make panels for the tuck ‘n’ roll setup I’m contemplating. Thanx for loookin’. B.

I’ve finalized the stance and choice of wheels and tires. I relocated the front spring behind the front axle which lowered the front end another couple of scale inches and moved the front wheels slightly forward. The truck now has a more dramatic rake as a result of this plus the Big ‘n’ Littles from the Revellogram Good Guys ’40 Ford Coupe which I chose. (Click on picture for larger image) I’m still not certain about the color scheme other than it's going to be a metallic two tone with the main body in the lighter of two shades of the same color and the fenders in the darker shade. I’m leaning towards shades of green since I haven’t done a green car and metallic greens are pretty traditional show car colors. B.

Perhaps iconoclastic, but very, very nice. You're right, the lines really do flow well.

It all seemed so simple at the time... We all have projects that are cursed and this is one of them. Right after I wrote this, I finalized panel fit and then shot some color and eventually clear coats as well. And I did achieve the Really Bright RED I was after. Everything seemed to be going so well... But right after shooting clear gloss I dropped the body while it was still wet! Because the color is achieved by shooting a solid red over a fluorescent red, in order to make sure I got a match on all the pieces I landed up having to strip the whole thing. I used brake fluid and it landed up doing exactly what it should to the resin grill shell – it turned it to rubber ! I should have remembered but somehow I forgot that the shell was a resin piece! Then I noticed some pitting on the hood surfaces. So I re-cut new hood panels, re-cut a new grill shell (this was third time I worked this section over so I’ve gotten really good at it) and then waited for the unseasonably rainy and cold weather we’re having to let up (I usually shoot outdoors or with an open garage door to avoid stinking up the house). Finally last week I got to shoot color and clear and succeeded in not dropping it again! More orange peel than I’d like but there are lots of clear coats to polish so I think I’ll be alright. I’m waiting at least a week to make sure the paint is good and hard before I polish! At least I got the RED I was after! Meanwhile I’ll work on the engine details and chassis bits and busy myself with other builds I’ve got going. This is a very rough mockup with none of the pieces accurately set in place. The actual panel fit is very good. I also adjusted the rake a bit more by lowering the front end another couple of scale inches. Thanx for lookin’. (Click on picture for larger image)

Luis: Just a quick word to say how much many of us appreciate a peek “under the hood†at modeling on this level. It’s not only the meticulous attention to detail and the obvious technical skill that comes across, its the sensitivity to your subject and the clear enjoyment you get out of it that is such an inspiration to those of us who are working our way through reaching our own modeling goals. Looking forward to more, more, more. It’s gonna be one sweet ’53 Vette when it’s done, no doubt! Thanks again, B.

Thanx Gramps. Both Raul's suggestion and your expansion on it make the basic principal "clear". Good to know how to take the necessary precautions for a succesful result! Thanks again, B.

Zeb: What a fine article. Brief and evocative, it paints a clear picture of Bob Paeth as a giant in the hobby who helped get us to the renaissance I’m convinced we’re experiencing today. Thanx for bringing it to us. Abe: I’m the exact opposite. I’m a “returnee†after 40 years away from a passion that consumed me as an adolescent and young man. Filling in the gaps is greatly appreciated. Dave: I can only encourage you and others to share your experiences with us all. We can only benefit. Thanx again! B.

Makes sense to me. Thanx. I'll definitely take the precaution. "Disappear for good" would be good!

Thanx everyone. Like everyone else , I'd love to see your build. I just hope all the body work that the wheel well fill required doesn't show up when I lay down metallic paint! It looks invisible under the primer right now but experience has taught me to take nothing for granted! B.

I started this project a few weeks ago to keep me distracted while I struggled with the paint on my ’32 3-window project. Working on this has kept me from fooling with the ’32 as I repaint it. The idea is to build a customized shop truck. Influences include the Alexander Bros. ’32 Pickup, “The Grasshopper†and John Robinson’s “Johnny Rotten†’37 Ford Pickup. So far I’ve chopped the top 2 ½ scale inches, shaved the front cross member and de-arched the front spring to bring the nose down, built a small rolled pan on the rear, and filled in the spare tire well on the right-side front fender. I think I need to bring the nose down slightly more and the front wheels slightly forward so I’m considering repositioning the front spring behind the front axle instead of on top it. Wheels will be modern, most likely the mags and tires that come with the Revellogram Good Guys ’40 Ford Coupe, tires will be blackwall, the motor will be the kit motor detailed, and paint will probably be a dark two-tone metallic, with the darker color for the fenders. I’m not sure about the interior yet, but most likely it will be tuck and rolled with the stock dash. Thanx for lookin’. B. (Click on picture for larger image)

I haven't built the Revell kit. Surely the kit dropped axle doesn't slam the front end down that far. Did you do anything else to get the nose down? Also, what grill are you planning on using? Love the wheel/tire combo and the frame is nicely detailed. Looks like a really nice slick build is nearing completion.

Great detail build. This really captures the essence of the "RP" style. Gotta love it!

The pricing is on the page for each of the four individual variations: PWD-8 Standard Distributor: All PWD-8 Distributors Are $3.75 & Include Aluminum Base PWD-8V Standard Distributor with Vacuum Advance: All PWD-8V Distributors Are $3.75 & Include Aluminum Base PED-8 Electronic Distributor All PED-8 Distributors Are $4.00 & Include Aluminum Base PED-8V Electronic Distributor with Vacuum Advance: All PED-8V Distributors Are $4.00 & Include Aluminum Base Unfortunately, as Brian R points out: "Search the forums for Arrowhead before you send your money." There have been complaints about delivery times, communications and refunds. Too bad, they look like mighty pretty pieces!

Very cool! Trucks lend themselves to some great details. Love the whole conversion approach you're taking. The working spare tire carrier is a great touch. Definitely a build to follow.