Bernard Kron

Great bucket seats on that interior. Where are they from? The understated white on grey interior really sets off that suede blue paint job. Looks like it's gonna come together just fine! Can't wait to see more...

I use liquid Drano. It works quickly but is gentle in case you forget overnite! I suspect it's just a very strong bleach from the odor and the effect it's had on some of my clothing...

That Loewy-liner is just sittin' in the race shop waitin' to be buttoned up. I, for one, can't wait for it's completion. Another on-the-money build is waiting in the wings! Very nice, indeed!

Ahhhhh... So Nice! The stance is pretty much the same as your mockup. I enjoyed the tail end of your W.I.P. post to see how you got there. As always, the lovely interior with the on-the-money choice of colors and style is buried inside the body. Perhaps you could post a pic so folks could appreciate that tasty detail. Anyway, shiny mag wheels (oversized but traditional 5-slots were the perfect choice IMHO) buried inside the fenders on the oh-so-right slammed stance, glossy black paint to show off the stunning flame job, and nicely detailed chassis and engine (more pics?) all make this streamlined baby a sweet, sweet contemporary rod build... B.

Posable Ft. Wheels - Good! Tail Draggin' Stance - Good! Props and respect to the spirit of the 51 Fleetliner - Good! I'll be diggn' if it turns out like you said - just lowered and painted up.

Richard is right. Move the front wheels forward and up a bit and you'll recapture the "magic" of the earlier positioning, IMHO.

Brilliant! Just Brilliant! Those RMC ’32 highboys can so easily enslave you to their built in aesthetic. You’ve done a great job of breaking free! Those new wheels are just the ticket, Such a great combination of the traditional and the contemporary. They really help top off the modernist theme of this build. Another great, original creative detail in a superb collection of them. The molded in color is very cool, very real looking. Love the chassis work. Did you “c†the front of the frame by the firewall a little to lower the front end? The material added to the rear of the frame/floor-pan makes the z applied to the frame kick up invisible and integrates the air tunnel assembly perfectly. The rear air tunnel detail is such a terrific alternative to a rolled pan! Also, big props for keeping the stock ’32 reveal line on the frame rail. This has gotta be one of the lowest “highboys†ever. Those drillings in the interior to give a sort of luxury sportscar leather look will pay off big time once that interior is painted out. Also, I like the single gauge pod dash idea. Another modernist touch. The car has such a great collection of creative details that it’s almost too easy not to notice how well integrated that DuVall windshield is into the overall look. Too many times those things look pasted on! This time the positioning and rake ideally complement the overall stance. I can’t imagine the car with the conventional windshield. I’d definitely go with a p/e grill. It also might help avoid additional sectioning work on the shell by choosing the right pre-chopped piece. My only gripe might be those carb stacks. The idea’s right but they seem just a little big in diameter to my eye... Can’t wait to see how it all comes together.

Beautiful work from both you and Frank. Thanks for the links so we can play catch-up. I’ll be following this one closely. There’s much to learn from the techniques you employ and the resourcefulness of some of your solutions. Also, it’s gonna be a very pretty car when it’s done. Nice hood and stance, very real looking and graceful.

Yum yum... I guess the "roadster top" is a conversion piece that comes with kit so you can make a roadster? Well, like everything else, judging from the box illustration, they got it wrong - it makes a cool "tonneau" kind of cover. Really works with your section job. Also, one piece grill/hood - very cool. I guess the wheels came with the kit - after what you did to the body and, presumably, the tires, they look great. The original body/box illustration makes anything/everything look horrible! You're really gonna take this one a long way...

Hey Mike: Repeat after me: Stance is everything... Am I mistaken, or did you put a wedge in the section job? Or is that just the result of the upsweep in the bottom of the body? Either way, it looks great! The wheels and tires are nice, I hope they stay. The front wheels tucked up into the fenders really works, too. Nice bob on the rear fenders to show off the slicks. And the nicest touch, IMHO, that abbreviated tonneau cover. Is it scratch built? Maybe an odd thing to say about a machine with such a big engine poking out of the front, but its actually real pretty! Just like your last build, I’m sure you’ll have plenty of us following along!

No, I can get the hood to extend straight out from the cowl, no problem, The battle is in two other areas. One is the height of the grill shell so that the hood does extend straight out. It involves some cutting. As we all know, there's no turning back, especially with expensive p/e and resin parts. Among other things I have to cut down the nicely detailed radiator that comes with the RMCM set. This is always a little scary since it determines the mounting and height of the shell itself. I also have to cut reliefs in the bottom of the grill shell itself so that it sits properly over the front crossmember. I did this successfully in the mockup, but there’s a lot of material to remove and I have concerns about the integrity of the thin resin. I just received a second chopped grill set from RMCM so now I’m covered and it’s time to cut! The second area is the hood side panels. They have to be relieved at the bottom on the inside so they can angle inwards over the frame rails to meet up properly with the grill sides. I have those reliefs roughed in, but until I get the grill shell mounting finalized I can’t complete this work. After that I have to devise some mounting pins for the side panels so that they are removable and yet correctly mate to the grill shell, cowl sides and hood. If you ever have wondered why so many rods have exposed engines, well,,, Once these things are done the rest of the build is pretty straight forward. I can’t wait to get past this so I can lay down some BRIGHT RED PAINT!

There's so much to be said for the virtues of a really good curbside. This one totally nails it. The extra trim work and detailing on the body is great. You new what you wanted and you got. Lovely model...

The ’37 is such a handsome car. Your spectacular yet tasteful paint job sets it off perfectly. I’m looking forward to the chassis work and how you chose to integrate those big wheels into the total package. Should be an awesome contemporary street rod. Judging from your avatar, you’ve been there before!

They soitenly are Ollie! Just dig the coloring on those mags on that Riceman build! Awesome. I dream of the day I can achieve that kind of realism! Dragsters are especially challenging I think because of all the textures and all the little parts that have to look to scale, not only overall, but with each other. Yikes! Oh well...

Unfortunately this old rail is a sole survivor. There’s no more where that came from. If I did recreate the original I would have to build up my mega stash of old Revell Tony Nancy Dragster kits! They would love me on e-bay, that’s for sure. Actually I do have what I think of as the logical successor to this ancient build in the works right now. It will have the stripped down look of those early 60's SoCal "money racers" that prowled LADS on the weekends: That’s Mike Sorokin in the old Surfers digger, a money racer if there ever was one. But my modeling chops have a ways to go before I can successfully completed something this naked and brutal and pull it off, so there will be a few intervening builds. If you want to see a master modeler in this style check out Roger "Ricemen" Lee at http://www.dragracingphotos.ws/riceman1.shtml . Also one of my favorite modeling sites: http://straightlinemodeler.org/ . Some of these guys are giants of the scratch builder's art! This is Riceman’s build of the Surfers rail shown above:

'29's look cooler than '32's IMHO, at least with a '32 grill - it has something to do with the more "primitive" surface development, sort of the best of both the Model T and the, uh, Model B that replaced it. Interestingly the Model A evolved in its appearance and the '31 Model A is almost a model B because of the simplified cowl, and in this it crosses the line and you might as well go with the more refined elegance and integration of the Model B. Just my two bits...

Thanx James but wait a while until I solve the mystery of getting the hood, cowl and grill to mate up correctly. Also, it's gonna be BRIGHT RED if I can get past the current battle.

Thanx Lyle. Nitpick no more - the term "Model B" has been banished from my review!

Thanx everyone. You have no idea how pleased I was when it resurfaced. The rear tires are glued to the display case (I think my mother did that!) so things immediately start to get complicated. The front axle is very thin and brittle. I'm not sure I could pin it. I'll have to think about that. Basically, it's its own diorama, busted up display case. shrunken tires, faded chrome, dusty surfaces and all - and I didn't have to weather a thing!

I just received a package of parts from Replicas & Miniatures Co. Of Maryland including their ’29 Ford Roadster Model A Kit (RMCM Part Number B-8). These are my initial impressions of this kit. This is a transkit based on the Revell family of ’32 Model Fords such as the recent Tudor Sedan, the Goodguys 3-Window Coupe and Goodguys Roadster. All these kits feature the same basic chassis and suspension and this kit, which consists of the parts to build a ’29 Model A Ford Roadster as a highboy up on ’32 Ford frame rails, uses the driveline parts, steering and miscellaneous parts from any of those kits. No wheels or tires are provided. The transkit consists of the following parts : 1 ’29 A body shell 1 modified Model A engine cover (integrated hood and sides) 1 ’32 Ford grill shell with 2 radiators, but no grill. 1 modified ’32 Ford frame set 1 3 piece tuck and roll interior set. 1 interior floor. 1 2 piece firewall set. 1 set of door handles and rumble seat handle. 2 sets of modified windshield and dashboard with 1 piece of clear acetate. Detailed instructions and descriptions for the use of the parts in the transkit. (Click on image for larger view) The main body is based on the AMT ’29 Roadster, which is actually a very well detailed shell. The AMT kits can be readily obtained on e-Bay for around $25.00. Unfortunately, the molds for the AMT kit are several decades old and the kits are a nightmare of flash. The plastic was often molded in odd colors and the body has to be be sealed to paint it. The rest of these kits are horrible late 70’s street rods with poorly made engines, goofy wide front tires, and crude “hot rod†suspension parts. It doesn't even come with a dropped front axle! What one buys these kits for is exclusively the body. For this reason, as you will see, the RMCM kit is quite interesting, being based on a far more contemporary approach to plastic kits and modeling in general. The first thing you notice when you examine the kit is the very fine quality of resin casting. The resin is exceptionally thin, indeed I would say that the parts are far more fragile than the equivalent parts found in the Revell donor kit. The result is an exceptional fidelity and crispness of detail. However the parts all require very careful handling. In fact there are two sets of printed instructions referring specifically to the thinness of casting. The first is advice on storage of the kit if you aren’t going to use it right away. The advice is to store the parts on a flat surface, not on top of other parts. To quote “ We cast our bodies and other parts thin, but this means the resin is susceptible to being pulled out of shaped by gravity.†Additionally there are painting instructions indicating that the parts could be distorted by differing shrink rates on paint surfaces on the inside and outside of the part, so that you should paint both sides with equal numbers of coats of paint. I would say that the parts in this .kit are superior in appearance and finish to any equivalent styrene kit I have seen, such as for example the Revell ’29 Model A Pickup kit. Surface quality of all parts, large and small, is immaculate, with no pits, lows spots, or distortions that I was able to find. There is very little flash, and what there is very thin and will require very little effort to remove, leaving no damage to the underlying surface to clean up. In fact I detected several places where the body and frame had already been gone over and some surfaces cleaned up! Very impressive. The kit is engineered to be a fenderless highboy. The gas tank has been removed and the rear frame horns shortened so that they are tucked inboard of the stock rear body valence. The kickup of the frame rails tucks in behind the wheel well panels and the body rests at the front squarely on the frame rails. On many highboy kits the front of the main shell at the firewall sits just outside the frame rails, so it is clear that when the frame was narrowed to fit the body shell, specific adjustments were made to provide for a perfect fit. Again, very impressive! (Click on image for larger view) On the original AMT kit the windshield is vertical in relation to the firewall whereas the Revell Pickup in its roadster version, features a slightly raked windshield frame which is very attractive. Unfortunately this thin, delicate part cannot be easily adapted to the AMT shell. RMCM, however, has included two sets of windshield/dashboards, one with the two integrated into one piece, and then one set where each part is separated. In both instances, the windshield is slanted back slightly, about 11 degrees. The dashboard itself is completely blank, allowing for whatever gauges you wish to use. The Hood and engine side covers are cast as a single piece with a fine accent line cast in on each side to mark the joint between the side cover and the hood. Otherwise they are completely smooth, without even a hinge joint down the middle of the hood. For me this is one of the few weaknesses of the kit. I understand why this approach was taken – after all it is designed for the advanced builder. But the basic appearance of the hood and sides is plain to a fault. It would have required very little to include at least a hinge line down the middle of the hood, and perhaps some nice 3†louvers on the side! The full height grill shell comes with two radiators, again proportioned for a highboy application. Both radiators are finely detailed on both sides. One radiator is detailed to accommodate a single coolant pipe as used in modern engines, while the second radiator is designed for a Ford Flathead. There is no grill. The shell is engineered to accept the Model Car Garage p/e grill MCG-2091 or MCG-2092). If you want to use the stock grill from the Revell donor kit you will have to remove a small ridge on the inside of the shell which positions the MCG grill. The firewall comes in 2 pieces. There is a finely detailed exterior upper firewall patterned after the original Model A piece. It attaches to the outside body edge and determines the placement of the hood. The second main firewall is patterned after the Revell ’32 Ford piece and is blank. It attaches behind the other firewall on the interior of the body via locating strips molded into the body. The kit comes with 2 tiny resin cast door handles and a tiny rumble seat handle. These need to be painted or plated. Holes are drilled in the doors for the door handles, and an indentation in the underside of the body can be opened up for the rumble seat handle. (Click on image for larger view) The interior is extremely simple, consisting of two tuck and roll side panels and a simple tuck and roll seat. The side panels are designed to be glued directly to the body sides. The seat is located by a strip of styrene which you glue to the underside of the rear of the passenger compartment so that half its width is revealed. You then glue the seat back to the strip. The interior, while not objectionable in any way, is certainly very basic, although in keeping with the classic hot rod approach of the kit. To my eye the heavy wide pleats of the seat don’t match the side panels very well. If you want to use some other seat or use bucket seats, you will probably face a fair amount of fabrication. The floor piece is textured to resemble carpeting and has a nicely made floor hump to accommodate more contemporary transmissions. It has indentations to receive the clutch and brake pedals from the Revell kit. Two holes match up to locating pins in the chassis top to accurately locate the floor and interior in relation to the body and chassis. (Click on image for larger view) The chassis is very finely cast and very clean with no low spots. It includes a crossmember which must be glued in and engine mounts which appear to be placed to use the Ford engine from the Revell Highboy or 3-Window kits. As mentioned earlier, the frame assumes you will use the entire running gear from your Revell donor kit. The chassis is the other area that I consider slightly disappointing. While the front suspension of the Revellogram ‘32’s is just fine, the rear suspension has always left something to be desired, with it’s funky little airbag doo-hickies. Given the decidedly old-school flavor of building a ’29 highboy in the first place, one would have thought that they would have redesigned the rear to use a transverse rear leaf spring. The answer lies in the fact that the RMCM ’29 A Roadster kit was originally released in October of 2000 when the Revell ’32 was a very welcome new tooling indeed. Since then RMCM has had Rik Hoving master a lovely revision of the Revellogram ’32 frame (RMCM Parts number RH-418) which accepts the front suspension from the Revell Model A kits and uses a combination of the Revell Model A rear suspension with the ’32 traction bars. Substituting something like a modern rear axle trimmed to fit is a pretty simple conversion. I wish RMCM would offer a revision of this kit that includes a narrowed version of the Hoving chassis. (Click on image for larger view) Overall I am delighted with this kit. The construction, engineering, fit and finish are exceptional on initial examination. The highboy implementation is flawless. My intention is to build this kit “OTB†in the sense that I will stick pretty close to the kit plus Revell donor kit approach. I plan to build a highboy, to use the Revell driveline, and the only concern I have right now is with the engine. I have never liked the Revell Ford particularly and it’s tempting to put something more interesting under the hood – perhaps a nailhead Buick. Also the hood and sides, which I would like to use, will require some work. The interior represents enough additional work that I will probably retain it as is. As regards the rear suspension, I have a copy of the Hoving chassis which I could narrow but I don't plan to use it on this initial build. It’s lovely but appears awfully fine and fragile, so I think on my first build I’ll leave the Revell setup in place and worry about something more authentic for later! Here’s a picture of the Hoving chassis: (Click on image for larger view)

Thanx everyone for the kind comments. Nick, your comment got me thinking. Channeling really is a pretty big deal, especially if your trying to maintain much of the original structure of the model, as opposed to dropping a body onto a scratch built, or totally different, frame where your options a pretty wide open. I don’t have any W.I.P. pics of the actual work I did, but all the parts I modified are still apart so I shot some quick pics and thought I’d outline the process I used for this particular model. I hope you all don’t find this too long winded but perhaps others will find it useful in their builds. Here are the parts that are modified to accommodate the channel: (Click on image to enlarge) The frame, firewall, interior floor piece, seat back, seat cushion, and rear inner fender panels all had to be modified to drop the main body down over the frame rails. In addition the hood sides have had to be altered, and the grill shell and radiator will require extensive cutting. Before I begin any extensive modification of a model I always make it a point to assemble the kit according to the instructions as much as possible without actually gluing anything together. This acquaints me not only with the fit of all the pieces, but the logic of the assembly and how the sub assemblies relate to each other. Whenever I channel a body I always build up the frame, the basic suspension and, if possible, the wheels and tires I plan to use. I use some sort of temporary adhesive so I can disassemble the chassis afterwards. Having the actual frame, suspension and wheels to work with allows me to trial fit, eyeball, and modify as I go along to get the look I want. Obviously this pretty much means I need to do my suspension and frame modifications, and select my wheels, before I start cutting and fitting my channel job. In the case of the Revell ’32 3-Window the position of the body in relation to the frame rails is primarily determined by the firewall, interior floor piece, and the rear frame horns. The model assumes you will build it as a highboy and that you will retain the stock gas tank. Obviously, if you channel the body you’ll have to ditch the tank and cut the rear of the frame. In my case I decided to leave the rear of the frame showing just under the body shell. I cut the frame back and reshaped the ends as shown. I also flattened and filled the little indentation in the rear valence for the fuel filler. Also it’s critical NOT to glue in the inner fender pieces into the rear wheel wells. These are specifically designed for a highboy and will make it impossible to channel the body. Later you will have to make new inner fender pieces once the rest of you channel is finalized. (Click on image to enlarge) The angle of the channel is determined by the length of the lower ends of the firewall. You can drop the body down over the frame so that it is lowered over the frame rails the same amount front to rear, or, as in this case, so that the front is channeled a little more than the rear. If I had wanted to channel the whole body the same amount as the front (no rake) then I would have had to shorten the rear frame ends in some more to tuck the rear of the frame up into the body. In this case I removed a small amount from the ends of the firewall to achieve the rake I wanted. (Click on image to enlarge) Once I determined the rake, this determined the modifications I would have to make to the interior. The back of the interior floor piece has a large tab which nestles up into the leading edge of the trunk panel and thus determines the height of the body relative to the chassis at that point. This meant that I would have to cut down the back panel of the interior floor piece. In the picture below I indicated the place where I made the cut. The interior has a grainy texture for the carpeting on the floor and Revell extends this upwards a ways on the back panel. This creates a nice straight line where you can place your saw and make your initial cut. The floor piece is located to the chassis with two small pins as reference. It's important to use these each time you trial fit the interior. I temporarily glued the floor piece to the chassis using those pins. This located the firewall (via the tabs circled in the picture below). Then I fastened the cut piece to the rear of the floor assembly using masking tape and dropped the body onto the frame. I did this repeatedly until the back piece was properly located up against the leading edge of the trunk lid with the body sitting the way I wanted it to, including resting on the rear frame ends properly. . I then marked the overlap of the cut piece and the rest of the floor piece. The amount of the overlap is what I removed from the cut piece, thus lowering the overall height of the interior. It’s important NOT to cut the back of the floor piece at the base (see arrow) because it’s virtually impossible to create a strong glue bond of a simple butt joint, and this is a piece that you’ll be handling a lot, and inserting and removing from the body at various points quite frequently. For this reason when I glued the cut piece back to the rest of the floor piece I used plastic strips to reinforce the joint and used super-glue. (Click on image to enlarge) I am using as much of the stock kit as possible and I am using the stock seats. This meant I had to cut the seat down so it didn’t stick up into the rear window. The seat in this model is a single piece. From bitter experience I’ve learned to avoid cutting into any pleated or tuck and roll surface if possible. It’s very hard to fill and sand the cut so it doesn’t show (at least for me). I’ve also learned to distribute the height reduction between both cushions so that the seat remains well proportioned. For this reason I made two small cuts along the seat frame at the back of the lower cushion, and then made a diagonal cut at the base of the seat back to separate the two halves of the seat. Then I removed a small amount of material from the seat base and made a semi-circular cut into the center of the front of the seat base to make room for the transmission tunnel. Then I test fit the complete seat assembly including the back inside the body and measured the amount the seat stuck up into the window. This is the amount I cut from the bottom of the seat back. The seat back still stuck up a bit so I carefully sanded the lower edge of the seat back until it fit correctly. (Click on image to enlarge) Once you’ve constructed the main interior assembly, you will have to cut down the stock door panels so they fit. Or, in some cases you may want to make you own door panels. In either case it is best to modify the kit panels first, even If they just land up being templates for you new scratch built items. In my case I cut them along the bottom until I was able to properly fit them to the interior assembly in the manner shown in the kit instructions. In this build the door panels remain stock so I was lucky that I didn’t need to cut into the pattern of the interior along the bottom. If you have a lot of rake in your channel you will have to make a diagonal cut because the door panel will narrow towards the front. The best way to trim the door panels that I have found is to make a template out of card stock by inserting the card stock in the space between the frame and the body and mark the floor line and window sill. This will give you the basic shape of your taper. Then align the template on the door panel along the window sill and make your cut along the bottom. The final step to completing the channeling of the main body is to make a pair of new rear inner fender panels. I don’t suggest cutting down the original ones because the plastic is quite thick and difficult to handle. It’s much simpler to use the lower edges of the original panels as templates for the shape of the lower edge of you new panel and build one from scratch out of plastic sheet. Glue the new panels into place into the body at whatever point in your build you find appropriate. (Click on image to enlarge) This completes everything you need to do to channel the main body. Obviously, if you're using bucket seats you can omit the process of cutting down a bench seat, However, you will have to carefully fill and finish the cut line on the back of the floor piece, since it will show. In my build the line is hidden. If you are leaving the motor completely exposed this is about it. other than locating the grill. I’m using a complete engine cover so I have had to modify the engine cover side panels so they drop over the frame rails and taper inwards to align with the grill shell. I made a template out of thin plastic sheet and cut a shaped it until it fit correctly, I then cut a side panel from the Revell ’32 Highboy kit. Then I reversed the template for the other side and cut the other side panel. (Click on image to enlarge) Lastly, the grill shell needs to be positioned and sized to look right on your build. I am using a Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland 2†chop shell because the stock shell hangs down too low and I want to use a p/e grill, which the RMCM piece includes. Even with the chop, I will still have to remove material from the base of the shell and from the radiator so that I get a proper hood line.

Very nice build. And a veritable how-to of tips and tricks from someone for whom resourcefulness and accuracy of detail are obviously a given.

Thanx Don! I saw your '34 on another post and really dug it! It was about the time I had mine in primer and I almost stopped right there! Of course red oxide looks 1000% than dark gray Duplicolor Sanding Primer. Sometime I'll have to build one in primer... The more I look at your build the better it gets. It's such a great combo of killer details. I'm assuming it was built from the dreaded AMT kit. If it weren't for the great bones of the '34 5-window it would almost not be worth it.

This is the only surviving model from my first incarnation in car modeling as a teenager. I was rummaging through some old boxes last month when I found it. The pics are (obviously) “as isâ€. I don’t think I’ll restore this old glue bomb. My recollection is that I used to buy a coupla Revell Tony Nancy dragster kits and glue the rails together to get a long enough wheelbase. The trouble is that dragster wheelbases were getting longer and longer literally month by month. I remember building a later version with what must have been a 186 to 200 inch wheelbase with a blue chassis and a blown hemi. I think it took three kits to get there! I remember it as being pretty fragile, too. Sadly, it’s gone now. This earlier version has a 5.21 inch wheelbase which works out to just over 130 scale inches The body panels are made from index card stock, which was one of my favorite building materials back then (there was no plastic material available as I recall). I also remember building up body surfaces on my customs using an underpinning of toothpicks and plastic wood with a final veneer of modeling putty. This model once had a front wing which was airfoil shaped and which I also made from card stock. It was painted body color. The posts for the wing were radio aerials from my parts box. The little round stumps of these are still on the front cross member. I have no idea where the “Dominator†decal came from. It makes me laugh bow, but I’m sure at the time it was the subject of many a fantasy on my part! My modeling hero in those days was my best friend who built stunningly accurate WWII fighter planes using reference books as his guide. His calling card was his tour de force camouflage jobs hand painted with a brush using Humbrol paints. He never, ever used decals for his markings. Simply awesome! The LHS’s were always all over him to leave them one of his models to display! I think it was from him that I developed my taste for a more realistic build, as opposed to the more fantastic customs of those days, a style I believe was imposed on us by the materials of the times. This style evolved into the Show Rod craze, both in the 1:1 world and in modeling world. Maybe one of you modeling historians can date this build. If memory serves me the Tony Nancy Dragster was a pretty new kit at the time. I remember consuming quite a few. I used to pile up quantities of unused bodies because I went for that stripped down California weekend money racer look. Also, Pete Robinson’s ultra-lightweight dragsters were my inspiration for this build. Musta been early to mid 60’s sometime. Thanx for lookin'. B.

Seriously nice stuff. The Merc Nomad is imaginative and well proportioned. I like the trailing edge door window detail especially. And how the roof line falls away a little bit , echoing the lines of the original coupe and avoiding the delivery can look. It looks like you may have extended the headlights a bit. Am I mistaken in that? It's great to see a full kit on the Datsun, engine and all! It all looks crisp and clean. Looking forward to more. Best of Luck, B.