billd64

any clue as to when the tanker will be reissued??? whats wrong with that lovely green color....... now on a happier note.... prime it, modify it it, sand it, prime it, wash it..... and paint it the color you want...... always works bill

a problem many of us encounter, hence why many started projects, or projects printed as is not as we mentally thought i used to work a side job just for my models, and my ex was annoyed that i focused there, vs a bar regularly.... my theory was i had something to show for it when done, instead of unpaid bills or headaches physically or otherwise nice build, wish i had similar skills bill

HEEEELLLPPP!!!! I have a couple of kits i'm trying to finish, and cant seem to get parts from limited run vendor, or the manufacturers" old kits" basically being bounced back and forth between people anyone with parts boxes please let me know, and i'll let you know in return exactly what im seeking so i can finish these kits for my shelf, and thus by anothert kit to "distract self with" thanks bill

ok, i know your pain, here is my solution that has worked for me on painted bodies.... i use bare metal foil to give a demarcation line(cover a different paint like two tone), then using masking or body shop green 2 in wide tape, attach this to ziploc, and to baremetal foil.... this has left me minimal line to buff ot, and the wider tape makes for a tighter seal between foil and ziploc bags... hope this works for you as well, as it has me to this date, when the paint isn't totally wet i then peel off ziploc / tape, then dry further then pull bare metal with minimal if any paint pull... i always over cover the area with the lighter color first, then apply the darker color, it seems to cover better and protects the lighter color from discoloring at same time bill d

there is no immediate trick to painting, its practice and skills used. 12 years a go i met a man that used car paint, i learned his trick prior to his death, its a two part primer from dupont called vari prime..... as of today, (knocks on glass table) it has not harmed any of my models, and though its a two part 3:1 usually with a paasche airbrush, i now use an HVLP touch up to prime with, and add some reducer to thin it it dries flat, which is better then model master primer.... this primer has no adverse for me at least on styrene... no idea about resin, ive yet to work with resin.... and i can use any paint over this primer, or nail polish i usually try to give it 3-4 days to dry thourghly, and when i ve needed to strip the model due to issues, the primer dissolves, with the model putty in brake fluid vs. any thing aerosal bill

Okay guys need a bit of help with this..... I have some scale thread, tha ti plane to use for the drums on 2 recovery vehicles.... may plan was to try to airbrush the thread with modelmaster steel.... any better thoughts on the matter appreciated i figured this would be the best way to add color to the white thread sent by manufacturer bill

ed; apportionmate, and DOT / HUD tags are required by many states when you do interstate hauling or move doubles / triples... and what ever you friggen do, make sure you have the right endorsements on your CDL or you are screwed..... I know a local driver, who picked a few pieces of HAZMAT up, and ended up having a leak, and him, and his company had major issues due to no tags on the box container, and he had a chemical leak and no hazmat endorsement on CDL..... luckily the trooper that opened it first from the smoke didnt get killed from the vapor nor an explosion due to fast fresh oxygen like a fire.... this just goes to show you need drums tied to a wall under all circumstances bill

very fine very fine...... now if i could only get my whites and yellows to lay down as good as you seem to any ideas where i can get scale hose, and scale tubing for airlines, and hydraulics

ive always sprayed the lightest color first, over enough area , then started teh mask with bare metal foil to reduce the paint lip, then i tape a large baggie around the rest of the model leaving the darker area to be painted exposed. so far the the baggies havent given me issues with bleed like newspaper, or paper bag has bill

I havent seen the complaint regarding AMT onthe other site, but if sent a link, ill read, but I have to ask, why is everyone so hostile??? It was, and is a modelers opinion regarding the primary model company here in the US, and it wasnt filtered or edited. All the posts here are valid, but lets look outside the box a minute, if your going to cry foul about AMT, why not cry foul about the man that could afford a limited run, of a kit that had interest, and "gouge" modelers on the cost?? Either way currently the box art is just that box art, ultimately we decide if we want to dig into our pocket and shell out our hard earned duckets for the kit. We can complain, the real question is will it make them do anything different? Currently where are all the molds, can they be repaired?? yes it would raise costs a bit, but not as much as initial tooling.... this tidbit of wisdom is something i lived with every 4-5 years as my father and uncles worked for General Motors, so when new models were introduced and plansts closed for 2-3 weeks to retool and stock the assembly line to manufacture something new, hence generic manufacturing started. Years ago there was a man at AMT that was an engineer and did a series in the "blue printer" Named dave carlock, didnt he start the history thing you mentioned Art?? Whats annoying now, is i've in several months purchased a few kits from the new AMT, and an older R/M mustang, that they re-assigned the kit number too, so there was no way to get parts from them, and AMT wouldnt supply the missing pieces.... I mention this as I've also picked up a few other manufacturer kits, one being Tamiya. Their Cust service dept gave me a few things they needed from me, and helped me with a bunch of parts missing from a kit that is past my skill level, but i'm trying it any way, its the only way to improve skills bottom is we control the kits manufactured by input to the company, and by the hard earned DUCKETS we shell out.... currently with our economy we want a few dollar's worth for a dollar when our dollar isnt worth what it once was. We just need to evaluate what we are doing first and think twice, avoid the headaches we just need to accept that the companies are not what they once were, and the quality isnt there either...... i was told awhile back im a modeler, take CA glue, and a #11 BLADE, AND ADAPT AND IMPROVISE and enjoy what your trying to build i gotta go look fo rthis post billd64

my two cwnts worth is use a candle, after its settled, stretch the sprue thin, and CA tack into place and fill thatway, then when filled, skim coat of glue, and accelarator, and then sand/prep, and a skim coat of putty and sand to finish bill

I had the fortune of go to the local caterpillar dealership this week to drop off an excavator, while there i recalled your wiring question. The parts guy who loved my dozer i did for the dealership years ago told me to go to caterpillar.com, and they have electrical, and linkage diagrams there, as well as the injection rack order similar to distributor and plugs, you just have to search out your motor good luck bill

reminds me of the days when tyrone malone had two race trucks, and two cabover haulers made by AMT years ago, had all 4 kits before mother disposed of them also had build ups of the white racer and transporter, but god that was days ago

dont use rc models, use snap kits from revell / mongram, they have a program called make it / take it. your also going to need sprue cuters and someone to work withthe kids, sprue cutters can be gotten fromXuron Cuttoes in Maine, they will work with you for maybe a dozen cutters. you can also promote this program in schools up to 3rd grade, the skillls here are hand/eye coordination to give an end result ive done the program for my cars club, xuron helped with cutters as we have helped with this program, though a little more involved to kids that were in 6th grae with using both snap / glue kits. our local schools like it, and the texaco day school program likes our time with the kids as well billd64

all i know is thats some heavy duty firewood for the winter after seasoning for a summer under plastic to bake.... ###### bring it to my house to save the money on the oil... billd

THe mack your looking at from the picture is either a C or CH model Mack. We rebuilt one 6 mos ago they make a resin nose for it, contact me via pm, and ill give you the name/email of a modeler in my club, who got th e nose and headlights etc from the guy he bought the nose from to use for a kit. I believe he used model Kings, dm 600 kit that was a re-pop for the cab and chassis... billd 64

in defense of the albany crew, they arent as anal as you think, and have judged them to be. like any modeler they have thier favorite specific time frame, and specific pieces, but also have car builder s and said builders varie in the mediums they build.... 1 builder recently buillt a coast gaurd cutter. the mis nomer and mentality toward IPMS, is the old IPMS view, not the modern view, and i for one have not converted my liked desires or anything else, but have accepted a few challenges from these members, and am working on military pieces..... my mentor says at least im building and learning more skills, even thogh i'm out of my element. there is a multitude of benefits to being part of an ipms club.... but at this point your looking for people just to build with, so i would suggest if you can, go meet with them, and i could give you a few names, and seek these people out, and learn skills to help your build vs about a plane or a tank, and please please lose the mindset thay are all military modelers.... my first few models in my lfe 35 yrs ago were military as i built with my grandfather.... as i got into cars, i built cars and big rigs...... now i vary on what i build, hell i currently have a motorcycle on my table primed..... so i suggest keep an open mind, and learn skills, and make friends / colleagues/ mentors help is the best way to build abetter model, i am learning this, and firmly believe it.... and i dont care who treaches me, aslong as i can build better

i know where they are south of albany maybe 90 mins, but not sure where you are there is an albany IPMS chapter, mixed modelers i can try to get you info if you like, i know they exist as i know several of the members and have gone to thier shows good luck

well curiousity has gotten the best of me here, i have read but minimal expierience with CA Debonder working, and recommended by several that i know. I was wondering the chance of freezing for a day or two, and then try to gently "POP" it off like ability has been in the past?? I also know that soaking in brake fluid for 24 hours or so has worked for me, as well as removing paint as i was told of a trick years ago though costly, and that is useing Vari-Prime from dupont, which expads the abilities for car / truck colors with more realism over duplicolor which i have had bad luck with, and jobbers locally dont stock as much.(primed a model, and then used its color for a close match to my real truck, which ruined at that time a dicontinued kit...... just some thoughts and wonders from my gray matter billd64

my son is similar, has insisted upon being in model room since he could walk.... he used to rattle the safety gate like a mad man.... i gave him a body, and sand paper and showed him, how, and then we built one together, and have three awards for it.... and he made finescale for it, during his first display i beamed with pride in him, and his abilities. his teachers have called me, but when i listen to them, the story is accurate, and i bring the models to them for his benefit. he has taken to doing snaps with his now autistic brother, he says they both like it, but i know his mothers husband has drop kicked a few as well. modelers/adults..... doesnt seem to matter we all become kids and have to touch even like we did when told not to by parents and then got hurt bill

The irony in your message is even judges sometimes have accidents, i nadvertantly lifted another judges motorcycle, with his papers right under it to move it, at the direction of another judge.... a piece of photoetch came unglued. many lessons were learned of those two individuals, both negative and worthy lessons. its in a persons nature to touch, especially kids. When my son was younger he went with a group of us to a Noreastcon, and we explained to him several ways about not touching models on tables. He developed his own way of stepping back to get our attn, and telling us where too look, at what he thought was awesome. At another show, his models were moved to help him, and the show, he got upset and went to host club president, me, my club president, and regional chair at time, and expressed his concerns about this "traumatic" event inhis eyes any way.... many learned fromhis lesson that day, and enjoyed his attitude about it, as well as his professionalism about it age 6. He was extremely politie to all, but he let be known that he was told under no circumstances to touch models, and someone moved his.... we all loved his lesson that day, as well as his display in manners that were complimented upon many times that weekend by many, I started blushing, he was getting self concios about it as well. In short YES the two professional modelers you mentioned as well as several others I have met over time, can do phenominal things with a model, have them bounce off the floor, and remain intact.... but accidents do happen.... sometimes the best intention like your hobby store person is a sad learnign lesson, as for your ex..... well been down that road with mine.... even her ruining an award winning Mustang I had made for her desk at work and giving it to me boxed the night before we left for a show, irony was my son told me the whole story of how the model was damaged enroute to the show. Yes accidents happen, especially from judges..... but your rant abotu scared is valid as well room "VISITORS / CONTESTANTS UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD TOUCH ANOTHERS MODELS" even as a judge i've been sent to get modeler to help display his model for judges. The down side to a show is that people dont read, even when you make a note and put it next to model..... As for gloves, I was taught to judge with a flashlight, and dental mirror, and white camera gloves, just like using surgical gloves while working on to avoid hand oils before and after painting... I heard what you were saying in your rant, but part of the problem, is that some of these damages you shuld anticipate, and almost expect when you go to a show/ display.... as for ex and display cases.... not even my g/f nor my son goes near case, he asks me to get his out for him, as he doesnt want to break the glass or drop the odel from the glass shelves.... im still lucky in that respect I read and hear you as a modeler and a judge, i'm fortunate, my son listened when he was with me on weekends and went to shows, and you should have seen him, when i brought his model to school for show and tell.... me irecall being smacked as a kid for touchig anything..... my wonder is how do you stop it, put a rope rail 2ft away from tables to make viewing/touching harder? maybe put a price tag in front of model, and let it be known you break you owe me, no exceptions? whats the best answer / solution ( i have had them ruined spitefully and accidentally so i really do understand your angst over this issue)

i have an original opened and primed, i believe its one that is alleged to be lost for good if my last read on it is correct prior to AMT leaveing Dyersville. I'll see if i can find it in my closet, if you really need it, I had at one point the international logger paystar series awhile back not sure if i still do. i traded a guy on ebay for can do wrecker parts for a seperate log/I beam trailer, but never got my stuff, otherwise id offer you the trailer as well, my plans had changed, had trailer sitting for years

depending on the size of the pieces, i either put them, and enough fantastik, in either a ragu sauce jar, or an old hellmanns mayo jar wait ten minutes swirl it around, wait a few more minutes, then wash off with dawn dish soap/air dry on dish rack or compressor, and go to town billd64

i would suggest going to local RTR ryder truck repair, or catepillar distibutor. I used to work for RTR, and we had books, then went to a portable CD workstation if you cant get itlocally write catepillar direct and explain project / dilemma they are usually very helpful. We have a local dealership here, and they have helped with picks for a dozer i'm thinking about if i go past there in near future ill see what i can find out.... let me now bill d

doc; if you get a paint chip from newburgh auto on north broadway, i'll see what i can do about getting a touch up bottle made of the color at ARF supply in pough. 2 oz touch up tube(smallest they can make)(ford tubes are 1/2 - 1 oz and were more then I was paying at ARF years ago) is usually 11.00, and its accepted manufacture paint for all the local body shops. I had a contact in newburgh that was doing H O K colors but couldn't do as small as a 2oz touch up bottle.... i just add thinner lets say 50-75% more for ease of flow, and can shoot from airbrush at 12-15 psi hope this helps, i usually use 3oz paasche bottle and total is lil more then an 1.5oz in bottle and sprays well to this point bill d