crazyjim

Here's an update on the progress I've made. The interior is just about completed. Chassis is complete - here it is upside down. . . and right side up. I plan to have the exhaust exit between the rear wheel wells. Before painting I have to decide if I want to notch the hauler body for the exhaust tips. The last pic shows the carhauler kind of together. Maaybe paint tomorrow.

Thanks for the heads up Brandon. I think I remember something about Turtle Rancher going to sell models. I keep looking at emodelcars but never saw any of his stuff.

I have a baby circular saw blade with very fine teeth that I can attach to the Dremel. I suppose if I left it in one spot it would melt the plastic but it cuts so fast that never happened to me. Lowe's & Home Depot have Dremel baby circular saw blades but they have very large teeth. I picked mine at a flea market many years ago.

Sorry to disagree, but the original instructions for the EMPI Imp call for shortening the VW chassis by 12". After the cut there's still a rear seat area but I converted mine to a lockable storage area (hinged plywood w/lock and a tonneau cover).

I like the extra detail you put into your black '79. I should have thought to grind out the grille like you did. Next time.

Alright - '37 Chevy. I got as close as the camera would allow for an engine pic. It's the block,heads, valve covers from the ala Kart kit. The valve covers would in terrible shape so I stripped what litlle chrome was left and painted them Testor's Steel. The rib across the top was painted body color. Body color is Testor's Mystic Red rattle can. Body was rubbed with Novus #2 and then polished with Model Car Wax. I got the front end down by mounting a parts bin axle below the springs instead of on top. The axle was narrowed to keep the wide tires under the fenders. The springs were notched to accept the axle. Grinding the spring mounting points front & rear also helped bring the body down. I screwed up by opening the rear wheel wells to the factory scribed line. They were too big for the tires. I had to fill in with 2 part putty and grind & sand. It actually worked good for me because the tires fit the wheel very well. The exhaust tips are polished 1/8" aluminum tubing that attach to solder exhaust pipes. Larger diameter aluminum tubing was used for mufflers.

WOW!! Your detail work is amazing. Keep it going.

The teardrop trailer is all scratch built. Somebody posted about making a teardrop trailer available in trade for an unbuilt kit. I researched the internet, made some drawings and then made side templates from glass. I lined the interior walls with Evergreen and them glued on the top and bottom. Evergreen was used again to make a frame underneath. The pickup features a neat hitch receiver. The plan for it came from Dukefan69. Thanks, Nick. It works very well.

The exhaust is plain old 3/32" aluminum tubing from the hobby shop. I polish it, cut it, and glue to the kit exhaust with Micro Krystal Klear. The taillights gave from the parts bin - they might be '61 Chevy bezels with small transparent red plastic. The color is Testor's rattle can in Star Spangled Blue I believe.

This is a scratch built teardrop trailer I built.

Forgot the pics.

I like this car! Engine is plumbed. Leather look interior. Aluminum tubing exhasut.

Bright green and blown. Engine is plumbed. Aluminum tubing for exhaust.

Can't see it but there's rolled & pleted interior (matches the rear panel in the kit), flocking. Brought the car down to a reasonable height. Cut open the hood sides, put in a spacer bar and backed that with mesh grille. It got a Hemi that's blown & injected. I think the block came from the ala Kart kit. I used transparent red fuel lines (somebody posted about using 30 lb fishing line) into a fuel block. Big & little Pegasus Hela wheels/tires. Exhaust tips are polished aluminum tubing. Taillights are small bullets that have been tunneled.

Anybody ever try the SMS fabric spray paint?

Okay. Thanks for the info.

I just noticed that there's a different title for different people - MCM Member, MCM ohana, MCM Avid poster, MCM friend. Who & why makes the decision for the titles, and what do the titles signify?

Great pics. Thanks for sharing.

I thought the shorter wheelbase trucks with short trailers were used for local deliveries in the city. Space is usually at a premium in cities and the shorter version trucks were able to back into cramped loading docks much easier. At least that's what trucker friends have told me.

Here's an update on my car hauler. I used Evergreen to extend the frame and more Evergreen to make mounts for the extra axle. Instead of just cutting round wheelwells, I made atemplate from the Chevy box, transferred the shape and cut them out.

As of yesterday, July 23, 2009 Mission Models has the 2mm replacement tips in stock but not the chisel. On July 9, 2009 he supposedly had both in stock. I used PayPal which means he already has my money.

You're exactly right diymirage! I've never donw a set and wa wondering how it's done. Looks I meant be doing a tandem axle and will run 23" t"s all the way around. Decision time tomorrow and I get my chores done.

Hey Ed, I was planning to put a set of dualie wheels/tires under my car hauler. Working on it today, I'm thinking that 23" T's with a tandem axle might look better. If I do that, I wouldn't need to run a dualie set up. My original question was meant as "How do you build a set of dualie wheel/tires?"

The base truck is the cusom 1999 Chevy Silverado. I'm thinking of running 23" T's with a tandem axle. The second one would be just a dummy and not a drive axle. Working on the frame and looking at those T's. I'll try to post pics tomorrow.

I don't think I've done a set of dualies and I'm going to need them on my car hauler. Any suggestions on how to make a set? Or maybe I should add another axle?