crazyjim

I called my local Michael's and Wal-Mart and they have no idea what Mona Lisa adhesive is. Can you get more specific - part number or a picture? Thanks.

Wait a minute! You use plain old Reynolds Wrap for chrome strips? I'm still trying to get the hang of BMF. I guess I'll have to find a Michael's for the adhesive you mentioned.

I build just for my pleasure. Some of my models were in shows in the 70's and took home trophies, but that was a long time ago. Now I build to relax and enjoy the hobby, although since my wife showed me how to post pictures through photobucket I plan to post on this site in the near future.

I unsuccessfully have tried 3M fine line tape and paint always leaks under it, so I was very interested in these discussions about tamiya masking tape. I did a search for "Tamiya tape" to try and find a source to purchase some of it. That search brought up a posting from Finescale.com where a guy says Shurtape Razor Edge Gold Premium masking tape is the same stuff but much cheaper. It's supposed to be available at Sherwin-Williams Paint stores.

What's the big new with multiple accounts or not using your whole name? I've been going to this forum for several months, did a couple of postings, learned alot, and am thoroughly enjoying it. Please don't ruin it.

My birthday present arrived Wednesday - 8 tubes of Kens Fuzzi-Fur from Scale dreams. I now have all the colors. Scale Dreams is going to be having a 1st year anniversary sale next month.

After completing any bodywork, I prime my models with Plasti-coat sandable primer in either red oxide, gray, or white depending on the final color. I let the primer dry for a couple of days before wet sanding with #400 paper. The Nova was in white primer. I use painters tape to hold the body to a bent metal clothes hanger. Doors, hood, trunk need to be taped from the inside at this time too. You need to fill a container with warm water. I use the wash tubs they give you in the hospital, but any container that's large enough to submerge the model will work. The container size will be dependent on how you want the swirl to flow and that is dertermined on how you insert/remove the body from the water. With the body attached to the hanger, I submerge it in the water and then start spraying Testor's enamel on the water. In the Nova case, I used several different blues and reds. If you try to stir the paint it will stick to whatever you used - so don't try to stir. Lift the body from the water, hook it on to something to let it hang dry and start 3 or 4 coats of clear the next day or two. DON'T TRY DOUBLE DIPPING - IT DOESN'T WORK!! You can get different effects by lifting the body at different angles. Straight up will look different than lifting the front end first. Or rear end first. Other effects will be had by spraying the paint over the water and submerging the body into the paint and water. BUT BE CAREFUL - once the body is dipped, you need to remove any & all paint that might be floating on the water. Use a stick, hanger, paper towel, whaatever to remove excess paint. If you lift the body up through the paint agian it will look terrible. If you're not haappy with the results, just soak the body in Purple Power and start over again. Hope this helps and don't forget to post your results.

I might be getting the hang of this - thanks to my wife. I built the Bantam roadster in about 1973 and the Nova in 2008. Maybe I'll be posting more of my models in the near future.

First shot at posting a Photobucket picture.

I created a Photobucket account but can't figure out how to get pictures from there into a reply on "Tips & Tricks" portion of the forum. Would there be a tutorial somewhere?

Looks like Photobucket and Fokti are both free to use for posting pictures. Anybody used both? Which is better - rather which is easier to use?

I transferred the pictures to my Kodak folder and tried to copy/paste into a reply but no go. The files are too large. I don't have a photo bucket or fokti account. I'll look into them and keep on trying. Do you have a regular email that I could send them too? Mine is IMcrazyjim@aol.com.

I took pictures of my Bantam roadster and Nova that have tye dyed but I can't figure out how to get them posted here. The Kodak camera I have downloads the pictures into the kodak software. Sorry.

You gotta be kiddin' me! I didn't think there were any other modelers were out there that are as old as me. It was tough being the busboy aat the Last Supper. I've been building model cars/trucks since 1958. I'll have to take pictures of the Nova and Bantam roadster that used the above mentioned sytem to lay the paint down. I hardly ever post and have never posted pictures. Should be an experience.

I've done it a feww times and it looks really cool. I forgot to mention that if you're doing red,white, blue, to have the body primed in white and then just use the red and blue for the dip. I usually use one of those plastic/vinyl wash basins you get when you're in the hospital. If you decide to spray the paint on the water and dip the body, you have to make sure that you skim the left over paint off the water before raising the body. The article I referred to was the "Moonwind" and it appeared in the March 1972 issue of Car Model maagazine. I'll bet everybody has a copy of thatlaying around.

You have to put the body into the water first - right side up. Then you spray the paint on top of the water. Just spary the different colors around. Don't try to mix the paint because it will just adhere to whatever you stir it with. Lift the body slowly out of the water. Let it dry for a few days and then start with several coats of clear. There was a magazine article about the process maybe twenty years ago. The car they worked on was the Moonwind as I recall. I have the magazine in the shop.

Anyone have a source for an alternative to the Flex-i-Pads, Flex-i-Grit, etc? Those pads are $3.00 each and I was looking for something less expensive.

I polish 3/32" aluminum tubing to be used as the distributor shaft (about 1/2" long), polish 1/8" aluminum tubing for the distributor cap and super glue to the shaft. Then I cut 8 pieces of distributor wire (Scale Dreams) that are 2" long and 1 piece 1" long (8 for the spark plugs and 1 for the coil). Put some plastic glue in the cap and stick all 9 wires in. Bing, bang, done!

I thought this forum was just for model cars - and then I saw the Memorial Day messages. I served with the Marine Corps in Vietnam 1969-1970 and want to say thank you to all who relpied in a postive manner. Every year I travel to the Vietnam Veterans Memorial in Washington, DC to say hello to my friends who came home in flag covered boxes. There are now 58, 260 names on The Wall - each one is my brother or sister. I WILL FORGET THEIR SACRIFICE! And thank you for not forgettine them either.

I make distributors from aluminum tubing and ignition wire from Model Car Garage and/or Scale Dreams. When I use "super glue" to glue the wires into the tubing, the lower part of the wires turns white. Am I using the wrong type of glue?